=Fenders= are bright,non-blenders; can be dulled for bikes

[youtube]lv4Q9ShAlFE[/youtube]

THANKS, ERN!





To be rubbed down from shiny black to satin black with soapy steel wool and water.
I like dull black because it blends into the dull look of the smooth Hank tires: invisible, nearly.

To be mounted to the LIME, these are identically the same fenders as I had on the old blue Currie,
which are now on the submarine-to-be ebike.


ASAP, when the new LIME rear not-taco wheel arrives,
ON go these new fenders.

They are light, rattle-free*, and no trouble to mount at all.

I ride this LIME bike in fair weather, only. But...lawn sprinklers, puddles on the early morning roads:
the LIME always comes home a bit dirty and gunked with thrown-up wet leaves and road grit.

FENDERS rock...but only if they are not well-mounted.
Planet Bike "Freddy Fenders" or a similar equivalent, are silent, simple, pure, and unobtrusive.

I do not happen to like OEM steel fenders as are found on the usual geezer or kids' cruiser bikes:
they bend, rattle and often, get out of order and rub. Not so with this type of ounce-weight fender.

Will, in this form, show the rub-down operation to turn shiny glitz to dignified, masculine, black.

________________
______________________________________
This is the stock LIME LITE,
June 27th, '09, oh happy day that was and remains:


The owners and chief mechanics of Coral Way Bike Shop, same location, giving good service since the year 1942

Smegma-boy in the center, seated on his arse, per usual
:wink:
______________________

Older video, a Hank slick has been put on the front, but the OEM tire remains on the rear,
and the stem has not yet been reversed....which works for me, giving an even more laid-back stance;
good for pulling the bars, digging in, getting a workout of the lats.
[youtube]hi17HhgRaRg[/youtube]
"shaky, not "shakey". it was a shaky-reid day, but a good day, anyway.
Ern bought me that bike, as I needed a morale-lift. I have no mooolah, y' know?
=correction: it was later pointed out to me by a member here that the Giant Suede DX,
using the identical Shimano "Coasting" system, has been on the market for two years, too.
It costs about twice the price of a Lime Lite...for really, no more "bike".

______________________

Next, the Hanks, mounted, an older, still shot,
and then, the stem, reversed, and then...

...we may, tomorrow, rub the new fenders dull, in readiness for the wheel yet to come
________________________

*Note well: ANY fender can rattle, if given even the slightest opportunity.
I happen to be innately "smart" (intuitive) with simple, mechanical things. It is an inborn gift, nothing I am proud about.
I will OFFER tips to ensure that your fenders never rattle, even if you jump logs and bottom potholes.
This brand of fenders, at least, can be made absolutely rattle or creak-free, forever. VERY SIMPLE, common sense.
truth.

LIME, bone stock, but fitted with super-grippy Bontrager 2.2" slicks.
Special butchery was required to fit the Hank to the Trek Lime's front fork crown
(the Hank being a tad too fat to fit without a rub).

the chrome-plastic chain guard pants protector is temporarily absent,
to gain access to the shifter motor "N" cable adjustment:
the right crank and chainring (it's steel, thank goodness, not wear-out aluminum), must be pulled
using a simple tool available at any LBS or online.

The gray plastic chain guard is now exposed. I do not have the special socket, serrated, to remove the gray chain guard.
BURN A HOLE INSTEAD, BACKING UP THE AREA WITH A STRIP OF SHEET METAL TO AVOID HARMING THE SHIMANO SHIFTER MOTOR
So, a fugly hole has been made with the soldering iron to expose the (cover removed) vital, mechanical, Shimano, "N"
motor winder-preset (a simple task to re-do upon occasion); just insert a 4mm into the white recess, and lever/ratchet it one way, then back, till it "clicks".
That's all there is to do to the shifter motor mechanism.

The chrome cover will hide this home-made, ugly, access-point

______________________________________

Now to look for a picture of the same bike with the same saddle,
but with the ThudBuster fitted (I may not have a shot available in file at this time)

Next, but I don't think I have the shot,
but will make a shot as soon as the new rear wheel arrives,
we will see the benefits of added "set back", especially valuable to a coaster brake bike,
benefits that can be gained by a ThudBuster. It really works superbly well.

_____________________

The best seat post shock absorber, period.
I am not affiliated with the makers of this product.
Below is a tiny video home-made from vid-snippets.
[youtube]xB5SBetshjk[/youtube]
thanks to Google/YT for "audio swap",
that we now have a means to add free music
to replace unneeded speaking, no royalties, pro bono.

Anyone with a hundred dollar digicam can make nice-enough videos
for fun, for instruction; for self-education of the maker, too.



___________THIS-HERE IS A FENDER BENDER THREAD, not a Tush-Pusher_____________


Howsowhasomever, all roads lead to Rome, or to a skunk stripe on your back,
and a dirty bike, iffen you don't fit fenders.

It's your call, how to peel potatoes, Freddies. :wink:

Your pal in Law of Fizzics Enforcement,
Barney make believe Fife


_____________________________

Here's a great link about making your own fenders out of thin wood. It looks like a great winter project when you're stuck indoors. You can make them very simple and classic, or as complex as you want if you have an artistic streak.

Once the thin wood substrate is shaped, you can take a razor blade and cut veneers into patterns of stripes, diamonds, or any shape you want to make a attractive skin to add. A coat a clear sealer and you're set. Home-made guitar websites have some great info on making a skin of attractive wood designs.

http://www.momentumplanet.com/components/how-make-your-own-wooden-bike-fenders

http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/

spinningmagnets said:

Here's a great link about making your own fenders out of thin wood. It looks like a great winter project when you're stuck indoors. You can make them very simple and classic, or as complex as you want if you have an artistic streak.

Once the thin wood substrate is shaped, you can take a razor blade and cut veneers into patterns of stripes, diamonds, or any shape you want to make a attractive skin to add. A coat a clear sealer and you're set. Home-made guitar websites have some great info on making a skin of attractive wood designs.

http://www.momentumplanet.com/components/how-make-your-own-wooden-bike-fenders

http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/

Click to expand...

Yep, there is a man who thinks and is possibly, just maybe on a good day, as free-minded as me,



With fond admiration for ALL free thinkers and artists
who do and dare to be different in word, deed, and screed.
r.
---
PS: what lovely work those fenders are.
Even if they were cardboard or hand-hewn rough plastic:
they keep one's arse, sweet, for the ladies, don't ya know?
______________________________

-----------overheard in 1963:
"Barney...just what is that stripe on your back?"
"Miss Sue...it's the mark on a fool."
______________________________

The steel wool is, I think, "4/O" (don't have the package anymore).

Water is all that's really needed.

Soap makes for a smoother satin.

Rubbing hard, but while wet, is the way.

CLICKABLE THUMBNAILS FOR LARGER VIEWS








Any satin-effect, from minor to full-flat black can be gained
by choice of steel wool-grade, and pressure, and soap or not, and so on.

Use water when rubbing, at least.

Straight strokes to finish.

Can be "retouched" on the bike at any future time, during a wash.

May, later, dull these originally-glossy fenders yet some more. For now, this is enough.

A tapered reamer eases the re-installation, and then the centering and the squaring-up of the two mounting "U" bars,
which are length-adjustable.

The included hardware is "sort of OK", but you can do better with bolts that actually fit the threaded
holes, if any, in your bike's dropouts, instead of using the supplied, small-diameter bolts with nuts.

Do it as you like.

Dull black fenders look very clean and quite "guy" like.

THIS IS THE FINISH used on the famous Steinway grands made in the USA:
their old-school lacquer, rubbed dull with steel wool and lubricant;
I watched the factory hands rubbing large piano case parts; that task requires quite a knack;
fenders, though, are very easy to make look NEAT.

Inasmuch as these featherweight fenders' color goes clear through,
you can rub and rub as much as you like.

Idea: start with a minor-dull effect, and increase the dulling
if you want a deader black that really disappears into the tires, visually.

Will mount these after the new LIME rear wheel arrives
(the original was, as you now, ruined in a recent accident, taco'd.

Yet, every fender will need a little "make do".

CLICK if you like a bigger image?





:? That fat tire, the narrow fork crown, plus the too-tall, silver bracket:
See the Edison quote? So true.

Must cut the bracket in order to raise the fender fully into the crown away from the tire,
to avoid excess-ugly, useless spare height, of the fender's front bracket.

The cut is "rough" and will key into the paint.

Then fit the stay bar, using the cheapo-bolts for now until I get Trek-threaded-whatever size those holes are,
socket button-head screws would be nice

Will paint the silver with Model T Ford "motor slush" black and apply a dab of clear "Polyseamseal" PVC caulk, not silicone crap, behind the bracket,
to seal the bolt hole against water intrusion and ensure against vibe-induced creep, ever. The "burr" of the cut also helps ensure that the setting holds firm.

NB: Sheldon Brown long ago noted that bike headstock bearings suffer when the bike has no fenders, OR,
that headstock bottom, which is always open and inhaling dust and sand and water-thrown, should be, at least,
be semi-sealed. No fender? Then maybe stuff a bit of cellulose kitchen sponge into the hole, and "seal it" with Polyseamseal?

The fender takes care of that little problem of the open bottom of the head tube.

Needing to temp-soften the ABS-like fender, just at the crown, so I can "mold" it right into the crown,
without it wanting to spring down and toward the tire.

I want decent clearance and will have decent fender/tire clearance.
A picture will appear here soon to show how I'm doing it: "inventing" as I fumble along.

The rear fender will have to wait until I get the new wheel mounted;
it will, for sure, want some minor trimming and proper affixing, as "universal fit" fenders can always be custom fitted better
--than just with zip ties and clips, etc.

TBC

You can get this from the hardware store; it is NOT silicone and it is water-borne WHITE only until it dries;
get the "clear" stuff...and NOT the xylol-solvent clear sealant: it will eat plastic, like as not.

Polyseamseal: around here for thirty years, it's good for small sealing jobs that you want to make look nice, can be filleted beautifully
with a wetted finger, excess wiped off with a soapy cloth (do not tarry), and be able to "undo"; Polyseamseal, a PVC product, like fabric glue,
but a thicker material, a caulk-viscosity; it "breathes" a bit, which silicone, does not, not much.

NOT a silicone caulk, NOT a solvent-power caulk, NOT anything, but a sort of stuff I used even in the middle seventies, as a fabric glue
for player piano cloths. We called it "PVCE" glue, if I recall correctly. Polyseamseal "clear" NON silicone is what you want.

PS: Am using right now a bare, small, sixty watt bulb, nested into the inside of the fender,
at that pinch-fit crown-point; you will see how, in a picture to come: using a lamp dimmer to control the heat, just so.

Watching it, and when the plastic goes plastic (soft but not on fire!), then, quick!

____________________

CLICK for sexxxy pics? :wink:

On a lamp dimmer, taken to about 100C, for starters;
the clamp below should serve to "deform" the softened plastic.
This is trial and error work, my having no prior practical experience.




It's cooling and taking a "set", I hope.
If not, I'll just repeat the process,
going up to, say 120C, then re-clamp

TBC

whoopee doopie: I just woke up. Four full friggin hours of sleep is all I ever can have at one time,
sleeping pills or not (had none). SLE sux! And so, time to wake up and try the fender for fit.

And yes, I will mention SLE at every opportunity =because= men have been told that it's a "woman's disease" by arsehole MDs
for a century now. IT IS NOT A DISEASE. IT IS A SYNDROME: a "wolf" (it bites, runs, hides). And it gets men, too,
from crazy MJ to Trick Daddy, to Charles Kuralt, to Ray Walson. And I have had "it" (the over-zealous immune system), probably,
for most all my life, and =did not know= because it is mild in young men, but forever grows more nasty as we age. FATIGUE for no reason?
But you are not depressed? SUSPECT THE WOLF. Fevers for no reason? SUSPECT. Deformed small joints, but no "frozen" knuckles? WOLF!
And so it goes. Doctors are idiots, many of them. The prison doctors would not even give me anti-SLE medication of any sort, nada but a tylenol
for the tooth that the Kop X split in half, and a ruinously-ineffective "beta blocker" antihypertensive, that, itself, eventually put me in the hospital,
in manacles, for three full lost days (needed a different class of antihypertension med, an ACE-inhibitor type. SLE can be a cause of high blood pressure.
DIAZEPAM was, for about six months, my perfect, self-found "fix" for this shizzit-syndrome. MEN, do not think that it won't happen to you; it's not "disease",
but almost, just the opposite: the body attacks itself, eventually killing vital organs and blood vessels, including damaging the brain. End primer. I will always
write of SLE in public, where-ever I can. JUST YOU GO to any "lupus help" site and hear the women, mostly, moan of the medical-treatment hells they are living through,
somehow, at least for a while, until Ms. MD put 'em on Happy Pills like artificial morphines, such as Vicodin, to shut the up and make them drug addicts for..whatever is left of their lives. MEN get it too. It's not a shame. It's something to DEAL WITH and beat, best you can. Beat "the wolf" even as it "bites". end lecture. Start content: a


It is eight AM or so as I write. The fender has been in that wooden clamp for since I fell asleep four hours ago (not eight).
It is OK now (was ten minutes post-posting) to mount it onto the LIME's front wheel. I will do that soon and have some pictures again to share.
To do anything is to gain on...something...
....Babbo, futzing with a broken transmission, 198O, my warehouse-opposite neighbor, he called me "Arrow" because I
looked so pressed-shirt straight, they/he had me pegged as an undercover cop.

"How goes it, Babbo?", (he looks and talks just like "Hoss") ; miserable-wet morn, open garage door bay for light,
in alley-way opposition to my Dan Tanna set-up place:

"I'm gainin' on it, Arrow, I'm gainin' on it....You know...if someday, if I could just clear $100 per day...then my life'd be perfect."

He never did clear $100 per day, not so far as I know. He went to prison, instead, for running wet bales.

I know, because he cut me in on one job, only. And next day, paid me eleven grand in dry, crisp, "C" notes, brown, thickened, eleven by fourteen envelope.

Never again, those old Hialeah, condo-warehouse days. I don't know if he yet lives.
I miss the old shows :| CARTWRIGHT...BONAZA...HOSS...Babbo?
________________

This is General and it should never be "pruned".
People come here with ebike questions, to ES.
We also need to talk about social issues and also
how to fit a g-d plastic fender, but good...to keep the filth off our backs!

____________________
Smoke a fag, said in the proper English way. Eat a p-nut butter on brown. No bread here, not really.
Look at the LIME, missing a rear wheel. Another day. :|
I am going to call the Coral Gables cops and land into them something pretty damned hard and FAST---
---at about 20 per, I reckon, and break some figurative bones there on Salzedo street in "beautiful Coral Gables.


PICHURS TO CUM DON'T HOLD YOUR BREATHS OR YOU MIGHT TURN BLACK AND DUCKIN" BLUE