Pedal only bike recommendations for 200 mile trip

bigmoose

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OK, you guys know everything! My daughter, about 135 lbs 5' 9" wants to do a two day charity ride that is about 100 miles a day in late august. She says her college bike is too hard to pedal, and my old schwinn road bike is too big for her.

What are your recommendations? Tire size, make and model? All that jazz. She is riding with her boyfriend. Speed is not a big factor as much as getting 100 miles in reliably and with less effort than a used $35 dollar, knobbie tire "college campus" type bike.

Carbon fiber and big price tags are.... shall we say, off the table. :wink:
 
Sounds like a good application for a cheap used Craigslist recumbent.

Or, a good used craigslist roadbike. :)

I would tell her to do a 4kwhr lipo pack and a little geared hubmotor, and make it hidden behind some rear panniers.
 
I would go for a Diamondback Nitrus 24" BMX on 24x1" road tires with a 3 speed IGH....I'm basically the same size as she is.
 
A used, medium grade, light weight steel, or aluminum, road bike can be had economically. The bike needs to fit her.
You want to have bailout gears when needed so consider one with a triple crank.
Rebuilding the bearings might be a good idea.
You don't want tires to go flat so they're worth an investment. A tire width of 23 mm should be the minimum and 28 mm the absolute max.
Rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag are the unseen energy eaters.
Get her conditioned to the bike so the riding position is comfortable. Prepare with more than a few short shake down runs.
Some things don't bother you until the miles start to climb. Any chafing and numbness are to be assiduously avoided.
Charity rides usually have frequent water and food stops that are fairly close together.
 
Narrow tires, light as you can afford. 27 pounds is considered light for an old steel roadbike. But for a ride that long, the number one issue is going to be the fit of the bike. Old huge mens stuff is out there cheap, but her size might get harder to find on the used market. Luckily, 5'9" she might fit ok on many mens vintage 10 speeds, with the seat real low. She still needs to be able to stand over the top bar of course. Stay away from old schwinns, like the lead sled varsity. but a vintage peugot, raliegh, or motobecane would be great.

But if you can find a good recumbent in your price range, then go for that.
 
100 miles a day is something.

My son and his friends decided to cycle Lands End to John O Groats a couple of years ago. It's the standard trip from extreme south west to extreme north east of the UK. It should be about 850 miles but works out as about 1000 in practice. The self imposed rules were thay had to do it like the students they were and not like well organised lycras.

I helped him find a road bike on ebay for about $200 and we did some basic maintenance on it. I think one of the biggest issues he had was fitting panniers to carry all their stuff - they were taking tents and not having a support vehicle. They spent about 3 weeks on the trip and raised some money for charity.

It was his trip not mine, but what I sort of gathered was this...

60 miles a day was the target they settled on, giving them a fair amount of time off.
They got lots of punctures.
Getting a cheap road bike and sorting it out works.

I would add my own experience that every used bike in the world can be dramatically improved with an hour's maintenance. So go over the bike properly before setting off.

Nick
 
Gents thanks for all the suggestions. I have Sarah reading the thread, and it is helping evolve her plan. My big old Schwinn, which I think is a 26 or 27 inch frame is too tall for her. I have been picking up side of the road bikes their entire life, fixing and recycling them into action. The youngest had a road bike chained at the dorm, the oldest the knobbie campus special. Can you believe that old road bike got stolen last year? It would have been perfect... We will keep looking, majoring on the "fit."

Looks like she is in the 22, 23 or 24 inch frame size from the calculator. Under ideal "fit" conditions, do you want the seat right near the upper frame rail? As in only raised an inch or so? Thanks for mentoring the ol' moose in bike!
 
bigmoose said:
Gents thanks for all the suggestions. I have Sarah reading the thread, and it is helping evolve her plan. My big old Schwinn, which I think is a 26 or 27 inch frame is too tall for her. I have been picking up side of the road bikes their entire life, fixing and recycling them into action. The youngest had a road bike chained at the dorm, the oldest the knobbie campus special. Can you believe that old road bike got stolen last year? It would have been perfect... We will keep looking, majoring on the "fit."

Looks like she is in the 22, 23 or 24 inch frame size from the calculator. Under ideal "fit" conditions, do you want the seat right near the upper frame rail? As in only raised an inch or so? Thanks for mentoring the ol' moose in bike!

No, generally there would be about four inches of seat post showing if the top tube is level, and more of course if it is sloping, but the exact amount does not matter too much. You need to be able to raise the saddle until the leg is almost, but not quite, straight when the crank is at the lowest position.

Sarah, if you are used to a campus special then you don't want to change to an extreme road-racer position. Have the top of the bars at the same height as the saddle, or even slightly above it at first. More important is the reach fore and aft, since women are generally shorter than men in the upper body. With someone holding the bike upright you be able to balance with the cranks level, your seat just above the saddle,your hands just above the brake hoods, and your upper arms at no more than ninety degrees to your body. If you look down and see the handlebars obscuring the front hub, then the size is just about right. if your weight is too much on the back foot the saddle is too far back, and vice versa. You can make minor adjustments in the position of the saddle on its rails, but if the stem needs to be changed perhaps it is better to look elsewhere.

I've done several 2x100mile charity rides, and seen them completed by people riding all kinds of bikes in all kinds of postures, but that is a good basic position because it shares the load equally between the saddle and the bars. As you get more miles in you may want to alter it slightly, but only make small adjustments at a time, and get your final position settled well before the event.

If you aren't already cycling long distances regularly then you will need to start training regularly now with two or three rides a week, with the longest ride building from gradually from 10 miles to up to 70 miles.

Learn how to draft safely (and take your turn leading) - it makes a huge difference. If you can on the event, stick with a group of six or eight with similar ability. It's easy to get sucked into a faster group, but then you'll soon discover why they call it a "chain gang." If that happens don't struggle to keep up, just sit up and wait for the next one to come along. If you're riding too fast to chat, you're riding too fast. :)
 
A late 80's Japanese roadbike with a name brand tubeset should be affordable and reasonably light. The tail end of the "golden age." You might look for: Miyata, Univega, Fuji, Centurion, Nishiki, Lotus, Bridgestone, or anything with a decent set of Ishikawa, Tange, Reynolds, Columbus toobs.. Like Zoot said, I'd go 25mm or 28mm tires, and I'd have a triple. And make sure the seat works for the rider.

Rediculous.. why you say to go BMX with road tires? I would have never thought that, does that work well?
 
Hi Everyone ... its Sarah, bigmoose's daughter. Thanks for all the pointers! I really appreciate it! I have been perusing Craigslist the last couple of days and found a couple nice bikes, brand name Jamis and Raleigh. What do you think about these brands?

I am looking for a reliable, good investment bike, but not a bank breaker. Not really looking for recumbent, but definitely road bike. The bike I rode around campus was an old 10 speed Murray. (really actually 5 speed as the larger main gear wouldnt work)

Would looking for a vintage one be better, or going for a newer one be better? I don't have really a lot of time to spare fixing it up, as the Pelotonia ride is in August and I want the most time to train on it. I've riden about 25 miles longest so far (I know LONG way to go) but if I could find a new one this week that would be ideal. Any other pointers would be welcomed!

Thanks!
 
Are you in medford? This is the first hit I found scrolling down..
http://medford.craigslist.org/bik/2449266324.html
Might be a cm or two too tall though.

What is your price range?
 
Sarah, dont underestimate a 100 mile /day ride.
That is a long way, so if you have not ridden a similar distance before do plenty of training rides before hand.
Any healthy (young ) person will be able to make the distance, but be prepared for the discomfort of 8 -10 hours on a bike as well as the mental challenge of any "endurance" exercise.
Unless you are a regular road biker, dont attempt to "keep up" with experienced pack riders, you need to find your own pace to allow you to last the distance. find a "friend" to ride with and give each other support along the way.
 
vanilla ice said:
Are you in medford? This is the first hit I found scrolling down..
http://medford.craigslist.org/bik/2449266324.html
Might be a cm or two too tall though.

What is your price range?

Unfortunately I think Medford is a good 2000 or so miles away ... so that will probably not work out for me. Although something like that would definitely work.

Price range ... well I would really like to stay in about the $100-300. I'm definitely not going to buy new, but I am not sure what kind of quality in brands I can find on Craigslist for that price. What do you guys think?

Hillhater said:
Sarah, dont underestimate a 100 mile /day ride.
That is a long way, so if you have not ridden a similar distance before do plenty of training rides before hand.
Any healthy (young ) person will be able to make the distance, but be prepared for the discomfort of 8 -10 hours on a bike as well as the mental challenge of any "endurance" exercise.
Unless you are a regular road biker, dont attempt to "keep up" with experienced pack riders, you need to find your own pace to allow you to last the distance. find a "friend" to ride with and give each other support along the way.

Yes, it is definitely going to be a challenge. But training and riding lots of miles are being worked on now! Just need to find the right bike to go the distance!

Thanks and keep 'em coming!
 
Rediculous.. why you say to go BMX with road tires? I would have never thought that, does that work well?

I did 80 miles in a day on a crappy 20" bmx with knobby 1.75 tires when I was a teen. No gears. No planning, no water, food or tools..just out the door with $5 in my pocket. 40 miles a day was pretty common. :p

I just really like BMX's, to be honest...they're great town bikes and if you can blast around the city then there's no reason it won't work on a distance ride. I'm the same size as Sarah and I ride a modified 20" bmx folder, but I think a 24" would be better on the knees. I have 20x1 3/8 road tires on my bike and it glides forever compared to fat knobbies.

The 24x1" road tires I found with a quick search were $20 each which seems like a lot but it'd be worth it. The bike I suggested was $280 I think. Pretty cheap and if you go to resell it I think you'd be able to get most of your money back out, where you probably won't with any other bike.
 
sorry for lots of posts ... has anyone ever heard of the brand ToTo? and the road bike model Apache? Doesn't seem to be well known, wondering if it is legit or junk. Found one on Craigslist and i am having some trouble finding reviews on it. Thanks!
 
Sarah, Jenny B's advice is spot on. So is Sheldon's

Jamis is a generally well thought out bike giving good value for its price point. Most of the name brand bikes bikes are worthwhile.
Newer bikes have conveniences older bikes don't have but they come at a cost. ie: replacing crashed integrated brake levers and shifters for instance.
Beware of house branded no name bikes that are generally built with lower grade components.

Be careful of "vintage" bikes on craigslist. Lots of sellers call anything from the seventies bike boom era "vintage" and charge more for it than it's worth.
Tons of those were house brand bikes not made to last.

When looking for used bikes learn to spot the difference between forged and stamped rear fork ends (dropouts).
Choose forged, forget stamped if you're making an investment that you can ride for a long time.

ToTo? sounds like a dog. I'd pass.
The seller should be able to tell you if it's "cro-mo" tubing. Pass if it's not.
 
bigmoose said:
Speed is not a big factor as much as getting 100 miles in reliably and with less effort than a used $35 dollar, knobbie tire "college campus" type bike.
Mostly, what Zoot and Dogman and JennyB said. High pressure narrow smooth tires for the least rolling resistance will make it a lot easier to pedal than any big knobbies, although it can make the ride more vibration-bumpy prone, so a good seat that fits right will also be essential.

But really, if the existing frame fits right, with the proper adjustments to seat and bars, there's not really any reason to change it, unless it just doesn't suit the purpose for some other specific reason.


For the most comfy seat, a 'bent of some type like LFP said, but those will take some relearning how to ride, and arent' all that much fun up any hills or from stopped starts. ;)


If going for a replacement bike, I'll second the 80's Nishiki recommendation(s): I got one at goodwill sometime last year, for only $20, and except for the rotted out tires, it's in great shape and rides well, although I wish it was a step-thru frame rather than diamond, as I have a hard time getting my leg up and over that toptube. And I hate saddles, but the bike itself is great. :)

I was going to link to pics, but they appear to be lost in the forum problems:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=327856#p327856
so I've attached one pic from my backup:
DSC03599.JPG
 
Sarah, where do you live?

I will find some good listings on craigslist for you. PM me so I don't forget. I found my roommate a nice Giant OCR road bike for $280, superb entry level, fast, comfortable bike. Deals like that are not too common.

You want to find a mid 90s road bike with 700c high pressure tires. Most 'road bikes' in that price range are crappy old 10/12 speeds. It's possible to find a decent one, but not easy. It seems many of them are overpriced now because those bikes are now 'cool' among the hipsters.
 
amberwolf said:
Mostly, what Zoot and Dogman and JennyB said.
+1

Comfort: riding position, saddle
Efficiency: riding position, slipstream other riders, thorough bike service beforehand, 700c x 23~32 tyres @ 80psi
Nutrition: decent pasta meal the night before, small frequent snacks during the event, try to have a good bite within 15 minutes of finishing each day
Hydration: small and frequent
Training: couple of 20-40mi rides on weekends

Pace yourself and think positive :D
 
If there are any specialist bike shops nearby it's well worth letting them know what you want it for and what you have to spend. They'll probably know other people who are doing the run, and can advise you better than we can. I've visited the Pelotonia site and it looks very well organised, but those 180 miles will be tough. If there's just the two of you riding together, then it will be a BIG boyfriend test! :)
 
Folks, thanks so much for all your help and PM's!! When I got home today, Sarah said: "You were right Dad, the folks on ES were really neat! They helped me a lot."

Sarah is learning a lot, and I am too! Makes it a lot of fun.
 
Road bike with drop bars, or mustache bars. Really important because you will want to change hand positions frequently. Then you really want a pair of padded gloves that fit perfectly and don't have too much padding.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html

Seat or Saddle. This is the number 1 complaint, and should be installed and ridden right now to get used to it and see if it fits. The best option is to find a shop that will help you trade your new saddle or seat back until you find one for sure that fits.
There really is only one or two Saddle manufactures and Brooks is the one you have probably heard about. Full leather, needs care from rain and theft, but the most comfortable!
http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+touring+%26+trekking&prod=B17+S+Select
http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+touring+%26+trekking&prod=B17+S+Imperial

Everything else is a seat, that is why they sit on a seat post. (my own analogy) The most famous womens seat is made by Terry...
The Liberator seems to be the one that works most often for most women.
http://www.terrybicycles.com/Saddles/Womens-Endurance

Another option that also works really well for others I know are made by Planet Bike,
http://ecom1.planetbike.com/5001.html

Along with that seat/saddle, you will really want good quality bike shorts, loose fitting if you prefer, but definitely seamless padding.

The next super important bike item is shoes.
Stiff soles greatly reduce tired feet, and transfer power more efficiently. On long tours you really want this. Even a good fitting cross training or casual/recreational cycling shoe is going to be much better than street shoes of any kind except maybe Dansko clogs with solid soles...
Clipped on to clipless pedals as a system, is the most efficient, and only takes a few rides to learn how to clip in and out safely and efficiently. Once clipped in, you can then learn to pedal smooth efficient circles, and apply power 360 degrees (in theory but takes practice) of pedaling.

Pedal example

Shoe example

Hands, Feet, and Seat are all points of contact with the bike, and you really need to address all 3 of these areas with equal concern and attention to assure a comfortable and enjoyable ride that will be fun and encourage you do keep it up.
 
vanilla ice said:
A late 80's Japanese roadbike with a name brand tubeset should be affordable and reasonably light. The tail end of the "golden age." You might look for: Miyata, Univega, Fuji, Centurion, Nishiki, Lotus, Bridgestone, or anything with a decent set of Ishikawa, Tange, Reynolds, Columbus toobs.. Like Zoot said, I'd go 25mm or 28mm tires, and I'd have a triple. And make sure the seat works for the rider.

Rediculous.. why you say to go BMX with road tires? I would have never thought that, does that work well?



X2 with this for sure. You can pick one of these up for 100-200 bones. Maybe replace the wheelset with something modern and you have quite a nice budget bike that could reasonably do 100 miles. Definately throw some 23c tires on, if you're not already used to doing lots of miles, this will give you a bit of an advantage getting to 100 miles training regime quickly, but be careful in the wet weather with slicks!

X2 on the brooks too, if you can spring for another $100
 
Yes even if you get an 80's bike with 27" wheels you can usually swap on a 700c wheelset with no issues. The brake reach is only 4mm different, which is nothing. Which reminds me.. another nice add-on (which very recently has become affordable) is the carbon fork. You can find 700c 1" ones for less than $100 now.

I've been able to find some good road bikes for less than $100, so even with the bike, the new fork and wheelset.. you could still come in under $300 total with some frugal shoppin. I'd probly just go cheapo and run 27's and steel tho.
 
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