Front hub thousand-watt bad

I have a 48 volt thousand watt front hub brand new to this electric bike thing spent last year with gas bikes last week I noticed I wasn't getting any power to the motor but the lights came on the throttle after doing some research I noticed it was a lot of resistance in the front wheel. After doing some research I spun the Wheel by hand and felt like a pulsating magnetic pull not a metal to metal grind but a magnetic resistance I disassembled the motor and all I could find wrong was rust so I sanded and clean put back together and the resistance appeared to go away but shortly later I could feel some resistance in the front wheel and still no power to the front hub to describe the resistance I am talking about hold one magnet over the other and pull it away as soon as it is far enough or close enough to the other magnet there is a tug and that's what I could feel pulsating inside the motor anybody know what's up with that and where I can start to find where my problem is

Without a doubt you have a short in the phases. The three big wires to the motor. Sometimes a short is in the motor itself after its severely overheated. sometimes it is in the wires.

Most likely is the short is that the controller blew a mossfet.

However, if it ever went away at all while the controller was connected, the most likely source is a nick in the wires at the point it enters the hub. Melted motors don't fix themselves, nor blown controllers. But you can wiggle a nicked wire and the touching wires goes away.

The definitive test is if the resistance goes away when you unplug the big motor wires. if it goes away then, then comes back when you plug back into the controller, that is 99.9% sure that your controller blew a fet.

Anything that comes and goes kind of randomly, is in the wiring usually. That's most likely a just doesn't run situation, not the resistance.

So yes I originally thought the short was in the wires right as they come out of the axle I put the motor in a stand and spun the wheel there was no resistance I then shorted the three phase wires one by one and the resistance immediately came back I was surprised I thought I had a short in the phase wires to the motor but now after that I tested the fets I did not check all of them but I found at least two of them where blown this is my first ebike and my first ebike repair the controller blew the fets really quickly I have only been using the motor for 2 weeks there was no sign of damage in the controller I could see a very small sweat look in a small Corner that look like it might have gotten hot there was no sign of water I also sealed the controller with silicone on the edges before I installed it so as to why the fets blew I have no idea I do have a 80cc gas motor installed on the bike at the same time I use most of the time I only got the electric so the cops would quit harassing me I use the electric at night when I'm the only one out and the motor is too loud and obvious I motorized. it seems that day my battery power lead that goes to the controller rattled loose because I was in a hurry that was the last I remember once I realized it I checked it put it back together and everything worked well that was the last day my bike ran

So I'm ruling out the fact that the controller got too hot because I rarely use the electric, also ruling out water.

The only two things I have to go by right now is The Coincidence of the power plug unplugging from my battery that day but that does not add up because I checked it right after I plugged her back in and everything worked

Because I have the gas motor on the bike I am suspicious of running that electric motor while it's off at 30 miles an hour++ is this bad should the electric motor be on or off at 30 miles an hour could this cause harm to the controller or motor at those speeds

Thanks

Yes well a permanent magnet motor will act as a generator when spun up. So if the gas motor is driving the bike at 30 mph and the front hub motor is a direct drive motor then that front motor is generating juice.
A guess from here is that the hub motor generated a high enough voltage to damage the fets in the controller.

How fast did the bike go on electric power only?
Will the gas motor push the bike beyond that speed?

The gas motor does 31 miles per hour
The electric maxed at 28 miles per hour
Are you saying that if I only had electric motor I could fry the Fett's in the controller by simply going downhill at 35 miles per hour? how is this possible that seems like a poor design

I'm having trouble finding the right mosfet
Can you recommend 1 for a 48 volt thousand watt

The controllers label says it is 126 amps but the battery is only 20 amp per hour
A rating of 126 amps seems quite hi to me I doubt the mosfets are rated that high on my new controller
The controller that blew has 66 as part of the part number leads me to believe they are 66 amps

I'm confused about these three phase electric bike motors they refer to them as having three phase lines does this mean they are utilizing a 3-phase current.
If so how does this work everywhere I've looked online three phase systems are only used in AC applications from what I have read DC could not take advantage of three phase current and would be meaningless

The reason I ask is because I would like to add a protection switch from the phase wires to the controller to take advantage of any current generated from the motor free spinning as I use a gas motor to propel the bike and to prevent current backing up into the controller and potentially frying the controller
I haven't had much time to do some testing on my spare motor but briefly put a voltmeter on it and spin the wheel by hand it appeared the motor produced three to five negative AC volts but I could not get an amp reading above zero
Do you think I am being over paranoid about regenerating current by propelling this bike with gas and having the controller hooked up to the phase wires at the same time then frying the controller

Welcome to the sphere. Enjoy the ride.
Where in the world are you located?

I think Fechter should post up a guinea pig pic in honor of your blown controller.
You are one of the few to combine gas and electric on the same bike. You are helping to find the stuff to look out for.

The controller converts dc into highly modified pulse width modulated 3 phase ac. Like magic the fets will switch polarity on the phase wires to make fake ac.

A geared front motor with a roller clutch would free wheel when not powered up.

Thanks so much for explaining to me how it is converted to AC
I am located in Oregon USA we have 1000 watt Max regulation I'm pretty sure this is a direct drive unit there are no gears at all and it spins freely motor powered or not powered
I do not know for sure that the controller has fried because of regenerating current into the controller when not in use this was simply a guess because I could not find any signs of water and I knew that it did not most likely overheat because of putting a load on it or extended use because the fact I rarely use it I'm in the process of buying some new Fett's so I can repair this in the future the new motor and controller has been installed for over a week now and working fine. A few people think the controller should be able to handle any amount of current that is regenerated
If I were to hook up some kind of Lights to draw some heat and current from the phase wires when not in use it sounds like I would have to have AC current lights and how would I utilize all three phases because they cannot be connected together would act like a short

Its possible that regen cooked your fets, but i'm not completely convinced of that. I've ridden down very large mountains many times, which is up to ten miles of regen running at speeds up to 35 mph. Never blew a fet myself that way.

On the other hand, cheap ass kits come with cheap ass controllers, which die spontaneously all the time simply because the components inside are cheap as possible. Sometimes even from the reject pile, not up to spec but still functional.

My bet is you just got one of the very many cheap 1000w kits that came with a bad controller. Worst I ever saw personally, one never worked brand new, and the replacement blew a capacitor in an hour. Others last years. My experience with bottom price controllers is they tend to last about a year, sometimes two. Better ones can last a decade at least.