dragonfire wrote:can you name the yource of the italian t-connectors, please ?
Just looked it up again and he is on vacation or stopped selling it...on ebay it is in italian language..
but i found one which is even a bit cheaper in hongkong on ebay.
The 750 watt bosch motor you are running on 48 volts, which model is it (is it of a MZ Charly and if so, how is the result on it of 48v and without the stock e-boxÂ´es "speed governor" )?
It's a MZ Charly and after upgrading it with a 36V controller with 44.4 Lipo power it will blow you off your saddle when you hit that throttle at once!!
as for overvolting these 800 watt scooters, the next version should be a "gecko "( aka Yasea/ China, but these are ok quality and available on ebay up from like 250Ã¢â€šÂ¬ with degraded batterie but few use only)-scooter with 1500 watts stock.
take care, everything over 0.2ah and 50 volts can end up leathal.
I used to be a electronics repair engineer....i like voltages beween 220 and 15KV...hehehe
About the old planning of another old thread, i bounced the buildup of the formerly 250 watts unite-powered scooter but still intend to upgrade the pocketbike, but this will be a rather unspectacular project and the motor mount is still undefined (unite 1000 watts motor on ecrazyman 36v 800 watt controller + 7 x 6v10ah slaÂ´s and for recharge a oldstyle goped hoverboard charger (the hardtire hoverboards came stock with 4x6v batteries in series);
- do you know if ecrazyman has a website other than the ebay-shop to check for the controller you have there and maybe a 1000w version for that project ? )
I bought the controller at ebay http://stores.shop.ebay.nl/Mini-Bike-Atv-Quad-Scooter-Parts__W0QQ_armrsZ1
you really got bite by the electric bug
dragonfire wrote:is there a thread about your charly-conversion, too ?.
dnmun wrote:or you could use the converter like richard outlined in his thread. find one that uses 120 V AC, and then open it up and attach the top of your 88V pack to the output of the rectifier bridge on the input of the charging brick (AC adapter). you can then use the output from the charging brick to feed the input to your voltage regulator if it is above 12-13V, up to 18V is ok too. if you can only get 12V out of the AC adapter then just bypass the votage regulator and put your connections right on the 12V rail where the capacitor is and use that for your controller current, and put it on a switch to keep from discharging your pack when it is not in use. you actually could get away with taking a 14-15V output and using it directly, but it is best to go through the regulator.
dnmun wrote:yes, your power lines to the FETs is separate from the controller current line. the controller current normally goes through those big power resistors to drop some voltage before it enters the voltage regulator. if the power resistor is too low in value then the voltage on your voltage regulator could be too high and that pulls the 12V and 5V rails up inside, which might cause the controller to shut down. usually they just blow up and smoke a lot.
dnmun wrote:you may wanna see if you can run with the p75fn75 FETs you have now. the bigger concern is the caps, which have to be upgraded since they are all 63V parts i think. but maybe the 48V controller had the 100V caps.
vanilla ice wrote:Neat project! Looks like "dean's connectors" in that bag you got there.
You're running a 24ah pack? How many amps are you pulling? What kind of lipo are you using? If its like the saggy economy lipo I have, that could be the reason your scoot is cutting out maybe.
vanilla ice wrote:Nice graph! That is the output from the 8s turnigy monitor? How many amps were you pulling at "position 274."
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