Suzuki GT50 Conversion

[orpheedulogis]

(for John)

Is it very important ? Except for the look I don't think so and ... today I gived the swingarm part to be soldered for metal plate fixation.
So my disk braking system will be at the left for first.

I think the translation of "soldered" (souder) is welding. The soudeur is a welder. I do not know if the motor is only designed to run in one direction or if you can just change the 3 large wires to the controller and the hall sensors to make it go the opposite direction? Others on ES have written about having a motor go the wrong rotation. In some controllers, you must change jumpers and resistors to reverse rotation.

I looked very carefully at the pictures from Kelly and I see some of them have the caliper mounted with the brake bleeder on the bottom (where it won't allow you to get the air out) and some with it in the correct position, on the top. Strange?

Sorry for bad translation.
On my last hub motor you have just to reverse wire if motor is on wrong rotation. On the schematic I had, they talk about this (but i have no schematics for this one). In theory, motor is just wires and hall sensors so I don't think there is a problem here. But, as you talk about this, I will do something: I will connect the motor with same colors as the "old" one to see is they turn same direction and will tell you about this. If they do it will be perfect for me, if not ... I don't know, perhaps I will change disk side....

[John500]

Some motors have bias or skew designed into them. These will produce more torque in one direction than the other. You can not tell by simply reversing the wires and observing the motor runs in either direction. You have to test under load to be sure. The easiest way to determine, in this case, is to contact Kelly.

[orpheedulogis]

Update: no need to ask to Kelly, it's impossible to put the brake system at left side ... I will do tire inversion and put system at right side.

[Jay64]

I was able to follow your directions but found my files were too big. I cropped them down below the 512kb and they posted fine. Thanks for the help. Are you able to delete replies or only topics you initialize?

You can edit the post and delete what is written there. But one of the good things about this forum is for people to learn from each other and from older posts. I say leave it so others can learn from it.

[John500]

I was able to follow your directions but found my files were too big. I cropped them down below the 512kb and they posted fine. Thanks for the help. Are you able to delete replies or only topics you initialize?

You can edit the post and delete what is written there. But one of the good things about this forum is for people to learn from each other and from older posts. I say leave it so others can learn from it.

I will be more careful in the future to stick to topic and not mix scooter ideas with legitimate motorcycle conversions. Then I won't feel the need to free up the bandwidth. I left the motorcycle wheel source from Mark.

Thanks;
John

[only1jake]

I spent a couple hours in the garage this after noon and accomplished quite a bit. I got the hub motor fitted to the swingarm with relative ease. Ill be fitting the brake tommorow as i need to get some bolts for it and the hub motor mounts. I also fitted the forks off the pitbike i got, which are nearly finished. It looks like i probably need to get a longer rear suspension, as its sitting a little low. What do you think?
Here are some pics:








thanks,

Jake

[only1jake]

Update: I got the brake fitted this evening. Its in a different position than stated, but it mounted very firmly. I only made the mount hole larger for it to fit on the axle. The caliper is sort of underneath the axle but towards the rear end. Ill post some pictures soon.

[only1jake]

The bike is now ROLLING!!!
Today i got the bike into a rolling chassis and tested it downhill. It has a tighter turning radius with the new forks and smaller wheels. The rear suspension does not need to be changed because the angle is fine. Both forks and rear suspension are working well. Tested the brake mount pretty hard. Some really hard and strong force stopping. Mount has stayed firm and not moved/buckled/bent. I am very proud of the mount and how successful it is!
Here are some pictures of the mount and rolling chassis and the bike with the tank on i think it looks great!!!





EDIT: I mounted the brake mount at that angle because there was a mount for the suspension in the way, so it could not be at the same angle kelly stated. I find this angle pretty effective

[maydaverave]

Cool, I like the brake reservoir kind of bling also dig the crocs. I go with the brown crocs at work and the bright orange for a night on the town. I love im, There have been a couple times were I would have lost some skin or toes while on one of my two wheel vehicles if I had been wearing regular flip flops as opposed to crocs. I think that the thick rubber protects better than shoes and when they get dirty just wear them in the shower

[only1jake]

Hehe, Crocs are one of my best friends lol. I wear them often and they are great for when I go surfing and get all sandy! They are amazing!

[only1jake]

So I have decided to go with a different battery package.. Since the old one only had balancers for each single battery, and did not interfere with the charger or stopping one from receiving too much charge. Thus I am going to buy this package which includes bms too: http://elitepowersolutions.com/products/product_info.php?cPath=27_29&products_id=111

[jorhyne1]

What made you choose those LiFeMnPO4 batteries over regular Thunderskys or Sky Energys?

[only1jake]

Mainly because they come with a proper bms. But also because they are around 7lbs lighter which is pretty crucial. Another advantage with these is that they have a 3c discharge rate continuous, compared to the others 2C. They have the same kwh and voltage ranges etc. The weight difference should really be helpful. I'll probably be doing some ordering and work on the bike this weekend. Need some wire etc.

The website says this:

Advantage of GBS 2nd Generation Li-ion Batteries Compared To Thunder Sky Batteries:

- 10% higher energy density by weight and by volume;
- Superior safety performance due to patented new safety valve and pressure cap designs;
- Batteries do not explode or catch fire when batteries are shorted or punctuated resulting in internal shorts;
- More robust connection due to new electrode terminal design using four rivets or four screws per terminal; Prevent loose connections caused by vibration;
- Reduced impedance due to improved electrode terminal design;
- Improved cycle life;
- New cell structure better facilitates BMS integration and battery pack formation, and improves air circulation.

Jake

[only1jake]

Hi,
If anyone is interested I have converted my posts into my new blog: http://saundersev.blogspot.com/
Although I will be posting here aswell, it would be great if you could check it out. Its still got a lot of work needed!

Jake

[only1jake]

LARGE Update....

OK, I have now sorted out the motor and tested the controller and everything is working great. I bought the control box from kelly controllers so I could test the motor and controller before mounting it firmly, just in case there was something wrong or if I messed up the hall sensor cables. It took me a while to find it but I looked on the site and found the diagram for the wiring (with colours). Found here: http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_62&products_id=135 I used 48v of oldish lead acid batteries I had lying around, which sufficed. Although I connected them to the chargers so I would be able to see it at max voltage. I need to get a speedo hooked up. Will go to a bicycle shop to get s cheap one for tests. I bought a motorcycle speedo, electric and uses a sensor too. This one: http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/fCMSBackend/imgRoot/specs/bb017b00.jpg Which I probably plan to hook up to one of these to get reading of the batts on the actual normal Petrol tank reading; http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=INS-EVW-FGD

At first I had connected it wrong. Because I wasn't going to use the main contactor I had put the precharge resistor in series on the positive cable. Which meant that it was acting like a voltage resistor. So I kept getting the 0 000 red led sequence, meaning the controller voltage was too low. So i took it out and voila. The motor purrrrrrrrrs.

Here is my setup:







Here is the test video:

[Malcolm]

Well done Jake! It sounds sweet.

You seem to have chosen a good combination of products there. I really like that EVworks fuel gauge sender, a bit pricey, but a very nice finishing touch.

[MrKang]

Nice conversion you got there Jake !
I love the hubmotor with the thick tire on it! better than my cheap looking hub motor on my china e-scooter.
I see on earlier photo's that kelly put on the tire for you. I think i will also save some money for a new hubmotor an tire like yours! I like it a lot!

question: the speedometer from konos is looking realy cool, but why not use a cyle analyst ? saves you money and displays all the info you want for your setup.

[only1jake]

Thanks for the comments

I decided to go with the koso speedo instead of the cycle analyst because I want to make it road legal and it needs to be e marked. But also I preffered to have a more accurate/proffesional speedometer this time. Although I am looking for some more instrumentation, so the cycle analyst might suit aswell.

This weekend I might take the controller etc. off the test board, and give it a go with a load. Just to see the bare average performance with the lead acid.
After that im going to have to get cracking on finding spots to mount everything. Still waiting on money for the batts though.

[only1jake]

Another Update!!!

Today I mounted all the testing components; control box, controller, 48v lead acid, fuse and voltmeter onto the bike for a couple load runs. When I finished it was dark unluckily, so i attached a mini LED light and off I went. Only a short ride with the lead acids, But I am having problems changing the LVC and configuring the controller. About 20 mins on the non charged, 2008 lead acid 12ah batts.

When Moving all of it over I ran into a couple problems, as before I had the the single connectors for each hall wire. One of them must have lost contact or the wire had come loose because for all of the no load runs with it mounted in the bike, it had the really bad load knocking noise when I gave it throttle. So, My thoughts were " Oh, FU**...!!!" I thought I had connected the hall wires wrong and effed up the hall sensors in the motor!! ARG....... Luckily enough my brother convinced me to take out all the connectors and solder them for a secure connection. And voila, the motor Purrrred again! I then immediatly took it off the axle stands and took it for a little test drive. OMG it pulls G's. Acceleration is far better than expected, likewise with the torque. As this is the high speed motor, I expected little torque, especially up the hill where I live. Went up and down the street a couple times. Such fun. The motor was a lot quieter than in the testing and test video. TEST VIDEO COMING TOMORROW!

Here are some pics:

[maydaverave]

Lookin good, though I would have went with chrome tape This is going to be a really nice bike after you get your batts and everything mounted.

[only1jake]

TEST VIDEO



Ran well. Not fully charged, but great fun. Pretty hard to drive with one hand on the handlebars, one hand on throttle box, But great fun~!!!!!

[jonescg]

Must be New Zealand - everything looks SO green! Nice work on the wheels man! Well done!

[only1jake]

Thanks, It's got to be the rain... We just had a ton of rain these past few weeks.
Will be doing another test video tomorrow with fully charged batts! I am looking at ordering the final batteries in the next few months, so the bike should be completely finished and road legal at around summer time. Still got lots of work to do though. But Need to do more tests, and I'd like to work out some numbers, but not sure of the formulae??
Jake

[Kiwi]

Nice one.

I live in the hutt valley. This week I am upgrading a scooter to LifePo4 from lead for a client. I have had a custom pack made up by ping batteries, 60v 30ah.
Ping offers a 3C battery, which he does not show on his site, I have bought a few now and find them great. I have a few here if you would like to have a look, unfortunalty not enough for you to hook up and try. But a 48v 40ah C3 ping pack would put out 120A cont, 200amp peak and weigh 19.6kg. And in a block would measure 170mm x 250mm x 250mm.

contact me through my cargobike.co.nz website. It would be good to come say hello.

[Malcolm]

I'd like to work out some numbers, but not sure of the formulae?

What do you want to work out?