jonescg's NEW electric racebike BUILD thread!

General Discussion about large electric scooters and motorcycles and other things with no pedals.

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby AussieJester » Sat Nov 26, 2011 7:56 am

jonescg wrote:but one issue is cutting slots thin enough to fit the tabs through.


Dremel with a cut off disk will do a 2mm wide slot no problamo CHRiS... ~40 bucks
for a Dremel knock off at Bunnings, the OZiTO Rotary tool is your best bet comes with flexi shaft
included for that price makes it much easier to do intricate work...

Here's a waterblock i made some years ago CHRiS, the channels i did freehand with
the Dremel and a cut off disk... The block was used to cool the hot side of a peltier
on my PC watercooling setup.

DSCF1211.jpg
DSCF1211.jpg (69.19 KiB) Viewed 1011 times


KiM
User avatar
AussieJester
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 9415
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:33 am
Location: Perth Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby TylerDurden » Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:36 am

Something like this, maybe?
Jones-Batt1-500.jpg
Jones-Batt1-500.jpg (42.92 KiB) Viewed 1002 times

(Just thinkin out loud, don't mind me.)
Have a Nice Day,

TD

Image
___________________________________________________________

FYI: Adding pictures?

Bored?... take a crack at the unanswered posts

Please post your Watts-at-speed in the survey.



Image
User avatar
TylerDurden
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 8540
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:50 pm
Location: Wear the fox hat.

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:15 pm

TD - not bad, but if there was a way of making it more compact that would be better. I have also been reminded that screwing the terminations together only really works well if the entire clamped bit is metal to metal (i.e. copper plate through tab to brass backing plate). I will come up with a few ideas today hopefully.

Meanwhile - did my soldering stand up to the task?

Image

At 186 amps (7.5C) the terminations are stone cold, busy thinking about what they plan on having for breakfast. So even my shitty soldering is enough to take roughly half of what I plan on giving it. I will try to make some decent cables out of 50 mm2 cable, cause my 200 A jumper leads aren't up to the task.
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby TylerDurden » Sat Nov 26, 2011 9:26 pm

jonescg wrote:...if there was a way of making it more compact that would be better.
Of course, form-factor is at your discretion.

Merely illustrating using fiberglass bar-stock (or other plastic) as a clamping frame, rather than slots in a fixed plate.

I haven't been reading closely enough to get the dimensions of the cells... with those, I could do a workup to scale.
Have a Nice Day,

TD

Image
___________________________________________________________

FYI: Adding pictures?

Bored?... take a crack at the unanswered posts

Please post your Watts-at-speed in the survey.



Image
User avatar
TylerDurden
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 8540
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:50 pm
Location: Wear the fox hat.

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Sun Nov 27, 2011 3:43 am



I also tested it with both clamps on one side, utilising twice the cross-sectional area. I managed to get a burst of 600 A, which later settled down to 400 A. Again, the soldered terminations didn't roll over in their sleep, while the booster cables are suffering some serious heating :D

Conclusion; even my lousy duckshit soldering can still handle very high currents without failure. It's just a royal pain in the arse to solder the whole pack together. Back to the drawing board for more clamping ideas...
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby TylerDurden » Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:19 am

more compact...?

clamp1.gif
clamp1.gif (415.91 KiB) Viewed 924 times


EDIT: looking at it this evening; I think it would be better to use straight strips on the ends that extend beyond (or above) the rails and join those in parallel , rather than using them bent into hoops as above. The hoops unnecessarily double the thickness between the rails, requiring spacers for the series connections.

Jones-Batt1b4.png
Jones-Batt1b4.png (70.94 KiB) Viewed 902 times
Have a Nice Day,

TD

Image
___________________________________________________________

FYI: Adding pictures?

Bored?... take a crack at the unanswered posts

Please post your Watts-at-speed in the survey.



Image
User avatar
TylerDurden
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 8540
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:50 pm
Location: Wear the fox hat.

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:19 pm

It looks good - very neat little animation!

I was wondering though about connecting the next layer of cells in series above this block. You could plausibly flip the cells so you can bolt through?
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby TylerDurden » Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:23 pm

jonescg wrote:I was wondering though about connecting the next layer of cells in series above this block. You could plausibly flip the cells so you can bolt through?
If I understand correctly, each string would be 6s?
Attachments
Jones-6s1-400.png
Jones-6s1-400.png (37.87 KiB) Viewed 889 times
Have a Nice Day,

TD

Image
___________________________________________________________

FYI: Adding pictures?

Bored?... take a crack at the unanswered posts

Please post your Watts-at-speed in the survey.



Image
User avatar
TylerDurden
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 8540
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:50 pm
Location: Wear the fox hat.

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:33 am

Not quite what I had in mind - if you flip the top half down then yeah, something like that. More drawing board I think. I really want to be able to tighten the tabs down with metal on metal...
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Harold in CR » Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:17 am

Chris
Have you given any thought to the Haiyin cells ?? Luke was supposed to receive some samples and test them. Maybe he has done this ??

They are being built into a RACE pack for the Connecticut dude, so, through him, maybe Haiyin would help with some support at a reduced price for those higher?? rated capacity-discharge cells, Maybe ?? They have larger thicker tabs you might be able to work with, easier ??

Getting them drop shipped from China, through Ron's distributor ship, might be possible ??

Just looking at this from another angle :)
Thanks to Justin, the forum is open source and NON-commercialized.

http://www.costaricacraftwood.com
Harold in CR
100 kW
100 kW
 
Posts: 1129
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:19 pm
Location: Costa Rica

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Hillhater » Tue Nov 29, 2011 7:41 pm

Unless Haiyin are feeling really generous, that would more than double the cost of his pack ! :shock:
I would be much better to go back to "plan A" with the 20ahr, A123's..which people are picking up for $40 currently !
... and would probably have a much longer working life than the Haiyin cells !
This forum owes its existence to Justin of ebikes.ca
Hillhater
1.21 GW
1.21 GW
 
Posts: 3519
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:33 pm
Location: Sydney ..(Hilly part !) .. Australia/ Down under !

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:21 pm

Yeah, have to agree. I have options on the table if it all gets too hard, but a 120 cell stack of A123 pouches is a good option. It will mean a lighter pack with only 3/4s the capacity, but a highly reliable, trouble-free pack. Still not convinced that the Turnigy's are spent yet, but we'll see.

On the subject of a stack of Turnigys, would the weight of 8 kg worth of cell on top of the lowest cells present an issue? Danny Ripperton believes that you need to leave a 1 mm gap between all of the cells to prevent overheating and he thinks that compression of any kind is bad news. Is there any basis to this? I think it's only an issue when you over-charge or over-discharge, but if you keep maximum C rate at half of their continuous rating, this shouldn't be an issue?
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Hillhater » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:56 pm

Chris, i have started a discussion on similar lines ( ref "C" rate and cell life issues) in Batt tech viewtopic.php?f=14&t=34239
Temperature is a factor for consideration , you need some to get the best from the pack, but too much can possibly hurt cell life, so i can see where spacing the cells could be beneficial if you are pulling high current for extended periods.
but.. what is "high current" and what time factors are important ??? :?
And how would you support separated pouches for a pack subject to race vibrations & shocks ?
This forum owes its existence to Justin of ebikes.ca
Hillhater
1.21 GW
1.21 GW
 
Posts: 3519
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:33 pm
Location: Sydney ..(Hilly part !) .. Australia/ Down under !

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:22 pm

I know - a big stack with no gaps is energy dense and easy :) Danny has his held in place 1mm apart, and it's a right royal PITA to assemble and disassemble. I still think he has two big problems - he skimped on the terminations for weight reasons, and any heat generated in the cell can't be sunk outside the cell. Also, he is running his cells close to their maximum rating, which is not a good place to be.

As for discharge rates, if I have 40C Turnigys, which are considered a "continuous" figure, a maximum current of 400 A at 400 V (160 kW) is still only draining the cells at less than 20C. And this is only part of the time. I did run my 3P pack at 36 A for 25 mins, (2.5C) and they were warm to touch. I doubt they were hotter than 35'C, but strangely, after running my 5P2S pack at 200-500 A for a total of maybe 2 minutes, they were still ice cold.

I don't think I will be abusing them, even with 'harsh' treatment. Overspec and underuse - a good way to ensure things last a bit longer and not catch fire.
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby SplinterOz » Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:10 am

Chris,

I have been watching with interest all your plans around your new pack.
Honestly I think if you are going to be running at 1/2 continuous C as your peak then you won't need air gap or any other cooling. I agree that Danny had issues due to small connectors and running the pack at over continuous C. I think that applying light compression to foil cells should be done just like ALL the manufacturers recommend.

I do think the pack has to allow you to insert/remove parallel groups and then individual cells easily. This allows for simpler checking and replacement if required.Turnigy Hardcase pack
I have been looking at the Turnigy Hardcase packs and thinking about a slide in arrangement for them. I might try and draw up what I am thinking about...
SplinterOz
In the Capital of Australia
http://rgelectric.wordpress.com
User avatar
SplinterOz
1 kW
1 kW
 
Posts: 372
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 4:29 am
Location: Canberra

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby amberwolf » Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:39 am

Regarding building the cells into packs, I had some thoughts here:
viewtopic.php?p=497517#p497517
that may not apply to your cells, but might be helpful:

*****************************************


After some thought and various pics around the web and ES of cells and terminations, I think that what I seem to recall was the EIG NMC pouches appear to have the best easily-stackable method. I am not totally sure how they work, and I cannot now find any of the pictures I have seen over the last months that were labelled as of those types, just one that I think might be, so I might be mixing up different manufacturer's methods into a mishmash that might nto actually work. :? Lots of the pics were very low resolution so I am not certain of details, just guessing based on stuff I do know about various ways things are commonly put together.

The only person on here that I'm sure could verify this is Jay64, as he actually has some of these cells, presumably including the hardware I think I am remembering.


Basically, I think there are short brass (?) plates welded by some method to the actual cell tabs. These plates are 90-degree bends, with two holes in the part perpendicular to the cell itself. I can't find the pic of the cells that looked like this now, but I thougth it was on ES in one of the A123 threads. Might be a "lost image" after the problems this summer. :(


The cells lay flat in trays (plastic?) with the bent plates down over a set of what must be molded-in threaded "nutserts" in the end of the tray. (couldn't see the actual trays or nutserts in the pics, but it's the only way I can imagine it workable).

There are alignment holes in all the trays so they can be easily stacked and bolted together thru the corners or edges (not totally sure about this, but it would make sense).

Once your series cells are all stacked up, angled bussbars are bolted thru the plates on the tabs into the trays. Angled so that they connect the + of one cell to the - of the next without flip-flopping every other cell. I'm not sure how easy this would be to do without potential shorts on the cells, but I saved an enlarged version of part of a pic of a pack that shows what I think is this method:
Image

Anyway, if you don't have room for a wide stack of cells you could bolt a plate across several stacks of these things and tthen bolt cables or busbars between each stack for series connections.

Paralleling them is easy, as you just use busbars across all the negs and other busbars across all the positives, and can even just use extra-wide ones to bolt across sets of them to create extra pack stiffness.

Because the trays are doing all the supporting, there should be no stress on the tabs at all, unlike some of the other methods I've seen proposed that would require a box be built around the pouches that supports them as a group, that is then bolted to all the cell interconnect hardware.

The only real problem I see with the whole idea is that I can only imagine injection-molding as the way to make the trays including nutserts/etc., and that is probably going to be pretty expensive per-tray unless someone does it as a venture to sell them to all those people with the A123 pouches.

Hopefully this all makes sense without a drawing, but I can try to sketch one up if it doesn't.
House Fire Updates Thread


Got a question that isn't personal or private? Post it in the forums, don't PM it. ;)

Wiki your techy info so it doesn't get old, lost and icky:
http://endless-sphere.com/w


Full-Suspension Semi Recumbent Cargo Bike - NuVinci MidDrive
Semi-Recumbent Recycled-Parts Cargo eBike: "CrazyBike2"
DayGlo Avenger, MkII
User avatar
amberwolf
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 13718
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 6:43 am
Location: Phoenix, AZ, USA, Earth, Sol, Local Bubble, Orion Arm, Milky Way, Local Group

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby adrian_sm » Wed Nov 30, 2011 3:05 am

Regarding battery heat. How about finding a way to discharging one of your loose cells at 10C,20C, and monitor the temp. This should tell you if you need to do anything special. If they are still not getting hot then ditch the idea of spacing the cells apart.
Build #1 ~28kg ~ 700w Avanti Hardtail Crystalyte 408, 48V10Ah Headway. ~5500 kms to date. (retired)
Build #2 ~30kg ~2000w Giant AC Dually Crystalyte 408, 48V10Ah Headway + 6s10Ah LiPo = 70V. ~15000 kms to date [SOLD]
Build #3 ~13kg ~2000w Commuter Booster <1kg Friction Drive in Beta testing (www.commuterbooster.com)
User avatar
adrian_sm
100 MW
100 MW
 
Posts: 2513
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:54 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby SplinterOz » Wed Nov 30, 2011 3:10 am

Ok I can't draw for crap....

Using these batteries....
Image

Imagine (if you will) a channel [ ] with a solid back that the battery slides into...
and you have say 4 of these channels stacked on top of each other each with a battery in it.
[____]
[____]
[____]
[____]

At the front you have 90 degree connectors from the batteries into a bus bar up the full height of the stacked batteries.
[_|_|_]
[_|_|_]
[_|_|_]
[_|_|_]

These bus bars would then be 3.7 volt and 20ah with a 50C rating continuous (1000amps).

Total height 92mm (19mm battery and then 4mm spacing for the channels), depth 100mm (93mm battery + bus bar etc) and 53mm wide (47mm + channel width). Approx 640g (148gm per batt + mounting gear) so 115Wh/KG. (all made up numbers). Compared to a 3.3V A123 prismatic of about 500g so 132Wh/KG (bare cell).

Price about $80AUD for the batteries and shipping. Stack as many as you need....
SplinterOz
In the Capital of Australia
http://rgelectric.wordpress.com
User avatar
SplinterOz
1 kW
1 kW
 
Posts: 372
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 4:29 am
Location: Canberra

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:34 am

I think I get what you are saying, Tony. Still convinced I can avoid busbar and spaghetti junction wiring by going with bare cells - just need to nail it somehow. I think I am close.

For any interested parties - the TTXGP rules have been updated. Maximum permitted system voltage has been increased to 700 V :shock:
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Arlo1 » Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:51 am

:shock: At what point do they think its dangerous.
Thanks Justin of http://www.ebikes.ca/
Also a thanks to Methy at http://www.methtek.com/ :)
And Dave who has some good deals on STUF
RC lipo and most other types of Lithium batteries you MUST know your individual cell voltages while charging and discharging.
Batteries of all kinds need respect they can burn your house down, so don't sleep with them under your bed or any other were you cant afford smoke or fire!
[color=#FF0000][b][size=150]Never above 4.2v never below 2.7v EVER!!!
User avatar
Arlo1
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 5227
Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:36 pm
Location: Nanaimo BC Canada

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Hillhater » Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:03 am

jonescg wrote:...For any interested parties - the TTXGP rules have been updated. Maximum permitted system voltage has been increased to 700 V :shock:


Anyone have a suggestion as to the logic behind that decision ?
It certainly doesn't make it any cheaper !
This forum owes its existence to Justin of ebikes.ca
Hillhater
1.21 GW
1.21 GW
 
Posts: 3519
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:33 pm
Location: Sydney ..(Hilly part !) .. Australia/ Down under !

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Arlo1 » Thu Dec 01, 2011 2:03 am

Hillhater wrote:
jonescg wrote:...For any interested parties - the TTXGP rules have been updated. Maximum permitted system voltage has been increased to 700 V :shock:


Anyone have a suggestion as to the logic behind that decision ?
It certainly doesn't make it any cheaper !

Igbt's start to get a lot more usable with voltages like that. I'm sure there is some good reasons for some of the engineers to try hi voltage like that. I for one know I want to experiment with higher voltages for some of the BLDC controller drive problems we currently have.
Thanks Justin of http://www.ebikes.ca/
Also a thanks to Methy at http://www.methtek.com/ :)
And Dave who has some good deals on STUF
RC lipo and most other types of Lithium batteries you MUST know your individual cell voltages while charging and discharging.
Batteries of all kinds need respect they can burn your house down, so don't sleep with them under your bed or any other were you cant afford smoke or fire!
[color=#FF0000][b][size=150]Never above 4.2v never below 2.7v EVER!!!
User avatar
Arlo1
100 GW
100 GW
 
Posts: 5227
Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:36 pm
Location: Nanaimo BC Canada

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby jonescg » Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:25 pm

Yep, when I first enquired about the Evo Motors, they suggested I go for the high voltage version and run the controller up to 700 V. But they do make a motor with fewer turns which runs at lower voltages but pulls more amps. So I will go with the ~400 V version. 700 just gives me the heeby-jeebies.

Anyway, I have been sweating over this battery design for moths now, and I think I have a solution. It would expensive in the short term, but cheaper in the long term. This pack design will enable the construction of 6-10 kWh packs without difficulty.

It involves injection moulding. Yes, hell expensive to set up, but once it's done you can crank them out as fast as you like. I have opted for this as I can embed M4 brass nuts with a 6 mm diameter face that would provide sufficient surface for a good tight thread. The whole unit is thinner at the base and has a 2 mm slot cut the whole way across, meaning the cells can sneak forward an extra 4 mm, making it more compact and it means I don't need to add anything to the tabs. The tabs would be punched with a 4 mm hole that is bent over the brass nut, aligned, and the 38 mm x 42 mm x 1.5 mm copper plate is screwed in over the top with stainless screws.

I have made an enquiry with an injection mould place in Adelaide who make all sorts of stuff, and will see what's possible.

Image

Image
Something like this?
Image

A list of nutserts:
http://www2.boellhoff.com/web/centres.n ... B-0200.pdf
Like I said, expensive at first, but to get such a plate machined out of acetal would cost thousands anyway. Might as well get the inverse of it made out of steel and make a reuseable mould.
Voltron the Electric RG250 - Dual Agnis, Kelly 1200A controller, 6 kWh of A123 cells from Cell_Man and a shitty old chassis from 1985 :| Top speed 180 km/h, max current 600 A @ 100 V.
VoltronII 8)
Say no to spaghetti junction LiPo! Assembled Hi-power LiPo packs of any size!

Come on Casey! If you want prototype racing, throw your leg over something with lithium in it :D
User avatar
jonescg
10 MW
10 MW
 
Posts: 2070
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:22 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby Hillhater » Sun Dec 04, 2011 4:02 am

:shock: :o
best to brace yourself !!...to make a mould for a part like that would cost mega $$$'s . ! :shock: :cry:

for small quantities, it would be much cheaper to have them water jet cut and CNC machined.
.. or maybe a 3D print job ?
This forum owes its existence to Justin of ebikes.ca
Hillhater
1.21 GW
1.21 GW
 
Posts: 3519
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:33 pm
Location: Sydney ..(Hilly part !) .. Australia/ Down under !

Re: jonescg's NEW electric racebike thread!

Postby SplinterOz » Sun Dec 04, 2011 4:25 am

jonescg wrote:Anyway, I have been sweating over this battery design for moths now, and I think I have a solution. It would expensive in the short term, but cheaper in the long term. This pack design will enable the construction of 6-10 kWh packs without difficulty.

It involves injection moulding. Yes, hell expensive to set up, but once it's done you can crank them out as fast as you like. I have opted for this as I can embed M4 brass nuts with a 6 mm diameter face that would provide sufficient surface for a good tight thread. The whole unit is thinner at the base and has a 2 mm slot cut the whole way across, meaning the cells can sneak forward an extra 4 mm, making it more compact and it means I don't need to add anything to the tabs. The tabs would be punched with a 4 mm hole that is bent over the brass nut, aligned, and the 38 mm x 42 mm x 1.5 mm copper plate is screwed in over the top with stainless screws.

I have made an enquiry with an injection mould place in Adelaide who make all sorts of stuff, and will see what's possible.

Image
...

Like I said, expensive at first, but to get such a plate machined out of acetal would cost thousands anyway. Might as well get the inverse of it made out of steel and make a reuseable mould.


Chris I was wondering if you could make that part in two layers? The first layer with the slots and the second with the separators for the connector bars. Your screw inserts could be placed into the lower layer with the slots. I presume there is some really good glues to join the parts together. The upper layer (without the slots) could even be made out of small strips of the material you are planning to use. Could save you a motza.
SplinterOz
In the Capital of Australia
http://rgelectric.wordpress.com
User avatar
SplinterOz
1 kW
1 kW
 
Posts: 372
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 4:29 am
Location: Canberra

PreviousNext

Return to E-Scooter and Motorcycle General Discussion

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: zombiess and 4 guests