charliebruce wrote:gwhy! wrote:I just edited my previous post as you were posting, not sure if you seen it.
Just read your edit and the linked post. I presume that all of those current measurements were taken are at full speed?
To clarify, the "skirt bearing" = oil seals?
I'm not going to try fiddling around inside the bearing/linkage unless it throws up any problems - it's been the hardest part to get right, and I'm a bit nervous that anything I do to it from now might end up breaking it further - if it runs acceptably as-is, I won't make any changes. I'm seeing 10A vs your 11A at the crank/shaft only, we'll see what happens when I put the belt on mine - I might even end up popping a multimeter fuse or two... (I can only measure up to ~10A until I sort out the Hall sensor - probably won't have time tonight). I don't think that no-load is going to be particularly representative of how it will perform, to be honest - especially because I stupidly forgot to measure current pre-mounting, and so don't have anything to compare it to.
I'll post back tomorrow (hopefully with some current readings, if not with a smoking multimeter )
The skirt bearing on the motor ( its the big bearing that screws to the inside on the outer of the motor can ). the no load without the belt ( just running the variator ) I would have thought should be around 6A @48v max at WOT ( if the motor on the bench @48v WOT was 4.5A ) , With the belt fitted as long as the belt is a good quality one and the pulley faces are in tip top condition I would have thought this would take around 1 or 2 A and the final reduction and clutch engaged driving the rear wheel upto full speed should be around another 1 or 2 A ( but this will depend on how heavy the wheel is, I never got round to tweeking mine to try and lower the no-load current at WOT through the cvt so these values are what I would be aiming for ( total 10A no-load @48v WOT ). The no load current was huge on mine the belt was not the best and the pulley faces were also worn and stepped ( around 30-35A ) but this would not change even with the read wheel locked stationary, the only time it hit the current limit of the controller was when accelerating , but onece a given speed was achived the current would drop to the 30-35A and be maintained even going up hills as the gearing would adjust itself .