Common high current connectors - and my opinion on them

[xyster]

WE also sells a "House Type" breaker for an extra $15 that you can put between the battery and the controller to avoid the spark at the connector.

I seem to recall that AC-rated breakers don't work properly with DC. Don't know if there's a physical difference beyond how the different types are rated....???

Here's some $10 push-button DC breakers:
http://electricscooterparts.com/circuitbreakers.html
and ~$25 switched DC breakers:
http://www.affordable-solar.com/dc.circuit.breakers.htm

[scottclarke]

Just in case this suggestion has been lost I'll repeat it here - and no - I was not the original poster though I do this sort of regularly working on 25KV systems anyway - its a lifesaver then!

Use a small 2 pole connector with inline resistor - connect this first and your caps get charged over a few secs rather than instantly - assuming you have calced the correct value!

Using a seperate switch is ok - and preferable - but if it doesn't close very fast it will wear in the same way as connectors - needing an expensive replacement!

[TylerDurden]

Use a small 2 pole connector with inline resistor - connect this first and your caps get charged over a few secs rather than instantly - assuming you have calced the correct value!

Is that just for charging the caps, then the resister is somehow removed?

[scottclarke]

Tyler,

Basically it a seperate lead to the main power feed - connected before the main connector. I (when I used one on the bike) just connected it first and left it on - no harm comes from this since it just duplicates the main connector - albiet with some resistance. Unplugging it once the main is connected is a bit of a pain since you then have a lead to dispose of or tuck away on the bike somewhere.

[TylerDurden]

Tyler,

Basically it a seperate lead to the main power feed - connected before the main connector. I (when I used one on the bike) just connected it first and left it on - no harm comes from this since it just duplicates the main connector - albiet with some resistance. Unplugging it once the main is connected is a bit of a pain since you then have a lead to dispose of or tuck away on the bike somewhere.

Got it... connected first, in parallel with the heavy main leads.

[fechter]

The big spark you get when you connect the batteries is tough on connectors and switches. Even big ones.

One way around that is to use a precharging circuit. Basically the same thing scottclarke is talking about, but a bit more refined.

Here's the circuit I use on my Vego. I'm using a 24v, 70amp relay from Allelectronics (around $5). The keyswitch gets turned on first, which charges the capacitors in the controller through the 1k resistor. It takes about 5 seconds for the caps to charge. Then I can turn on the kill switch to close the relay, which will only have a few volts across it at that point, minimizing the arcing.

An additional feature of this circuit is if there's a short in the controller (blown FET, etc.), the capacitors won't be able to charge, and the main relay won't be able to close.

Another nice feature is when the keyswitch is off, the controller is completely disconnected from the batteries, minimizing battery drain during storage and reducing the chances of a power line spike getting through the battery charger and zapping the controller (I've heard several reports of this happening, one that resulted in a spontaneous full throttle condition. Imagine your ride suddenly taking off in your living room for no apparent reason ).

The 1k resistor should be able to take full battery voltage without overheating. 5w is good for up to about 72v.

The resistor on the relay coil will be necessary if the relay coil is rated for a lower voltage than the battery voltage. The value of resistor is chosen to provide the correct voltage to the relay coil. A 100uf capacitor can be put across the resistor to give an extra boost to pull in the relay, allowing a slightly lower voltage to hold the relay in.

[fechter]

The cruder, simpler way to do it is shown below. With the main switch off, the batteries can be connected without a big spark. The resistor will charge up the caps in the controller and prevent arcing on the main switch as well.

In this configuration, the batteries would be slightly drained by the controller when the switch is off, but the drain would be less than the normal "always on" configuration. You could always disconnect the batteries for long term storage.

[Rassy]

I don't know what the ratings are on the breakers I got from WE, as there is no information printed on them. I would guess they must be rated for DC since WE supplies them for that purpose. I just called them "house type" because of their design.

[Beagle123]

Thanks for the info patrick. I"m going to get some of those connectors. I really appreciate that you provided the links.

I have another question about connectors:

I bought this controller:

http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101210

it has a bunch of connectors attached to it. Does anyone know where to find the corresponding connectors for these?

Last time I just used wirenuts.

[scottclarke]

No idea where you might find some not already attached to something!

In any case - you are best to hard wire (solder) all the LV stuff like brake cut off and 'power up' since wet weather and open connectors don't mix well!

I have a couple of those controllers btw...

Scott

[fechter]

Here's a few other places that sell Anderson Power Pole connectors:

http://www.dcpwr.com/products/productlist.php?id=32&PHPSESSID=6f58ce7497dca344ebd28c4f97762c27

http://www.powerwerx.com/

http://www.cablexperts.com/cfdocs/cat.cfm?ItemGroup=9&itmsub=0&bskt=0&USA_ship=1&c=0

[Ypedal]

In canada.. i get my andersons from this place:

http://www.rosspar.com/

[snowranger]

What makes the mail order andersons expensive is the shipping. Here's a place that has good prices and low shipping. I just bought my last set from here.

http://www.alt-moto.com/

[sparky]

Here's a few other places that sell Anderson Power Pole connectors:

http://www.dcpwr.com/products/productlist.php?id=32&PHPSESSID=6f58ce7497dca344ebd28c4f97762c27

http://www.powerwerx.com/

http://www.cablexperts.com/cfdocs/cat.cfm?ItemGroup=9&itmsub=0&bskt=0&USA_ship=1&c=0

Thanks for the resources. Is there any trick in assembling the Andersons? I just got a baggie full of them from ebikes.ca with no instructions.

I'm thinking you just crimp/solder them then stick them in...the crimp tabs seem polarized (blade is cupped). Any trick to sticking them in right?

[Ypedal]

with bigger gauge wire they just snap in.. but with thinner stuff you can use a small jewlers screwdriver or something similar to push the trip into the housings.. i made a picture thread of this a while ago... will try to dig it up

[Zoot Katz]

Pictures and tips for assembling Anderson Powerpole connectors:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/supportrr.htm

[sparky]

Pictures and tips for assembling Anderson Powerpole connectors:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/supportrr.htm

Thanks Ypedal and zootkatz!... link in particular is very helpful. Looks like it'll only "snap in" one way...this is good!

[LI-ghtcycle]

****COUGH!!!!!!! COUGH!!!!!!!!!****

I know this is a dusty old thread, but I have a couple of Q's

First off, connectors:

One thing I didn't see addressed, is weather (particularly rain) resistance. I don't like to ride in the rain, but I live where rain is almost always a possibility, most any time of the year. I found some plugs at the local hardware store sold for use with power sprayers (pesticides) so I don't know what to call these or what they could be rated to handle (14G wire), but, the plugs that are 2 wire yet similar to the 4 wire trailer in that it is rubber, polarized, and I think, weather resistant.

Are any of the connectors listed on this post designed with weather (particularly water) resistance in mind?

Also, I am very curious about the parallel resister pre-charging circuit. Is this circuit still necessary with an adequate switch between the battery and the connector?

I understand that the switch takes the brunt in this situation, so maybe a relay is more practical?

I have only been using an Amped Bikes DD rear hub kit in it's nominal 36v power, and my next kit I plan to run 56v, so I am looking into what I will need to up-grade.

Another question (hope it's not too far OT hehe) is, if I up the voltage, yet stay low in AH's, will that be easier on the system? I'm sure a lot of these Q's can be answered with a better understanding of basic electrical theory, but I am afraid many of you have forgotten more than I have ever known, so until I am able to take some courses, I'm relying on your exceptional knowledge and patience.

[jateureka]

I have seen Molex and bullet crimp connectors on a 36V 15A controller feeding a 250W motor that had melted and fused together.

This thread also shows the down side of using 'bullet' connectors, but I think they are actually banana connectors.(you need to scroll dwn the page a bit to see the photo)
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15192&start=75

Re: Metallover's 9c Blackcomb Build
by Metallover » Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:30 pm

... I am about done with my Bullet Plugs. The last short I had to open up one of my zippies and re-solder one of the tabs. It was blown apart. This new short today is the one that sent me over the edge.

[ZOMGVTEK]

I have a pair of Power Poles with a 1K resistor in line that I connect first, then a second pair that I connect a few seconds later...
It mostly eliminates the massive POP when I connect the battery, and keeps the contacts clean.

Im only using the standard little 45A? PP's, but they dont have a issue at all with 60A running through them. The wire is warmer than the contacts.

[Farfle]

I have been using these bullets on all my connections both motor/controller and phase wires. They can take quite a bit of current, as 10 GA wire gets hotter than they do. And for the price you can have either 1 set of Andersons, or 10 pairs of these. plus they come with really good heat shrink

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.41134

[Kin]

Any comments on the XT60 connectors? I got a bunch because it seemed like a good idea at the time.

[itchynackers]

I love em. I haven't pushed the amperage limit on them, but they take many many connect/disconnect cycles and don't wear. They are very durable, and fairly easy to solder. In my opinion, they are leagues better than problem prone andersons.

[nonlineartom]

What are people commonly using for X5 motors being pushed hard? My X5 is still running standard PP45's but I'm feeding it more than 45 amps, do you go to 6mm bullets?

[Farfle]

the HK 4mm bullets like these run great on a 130A 100v setup:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _set_.html