Ok, so I was stalled a bit by not bieng able to get my el-cheapo controllers working, but the new kellys have come in and so I was finally able to get my hall sensors mounted on my motors and give them a test run. I learned a lot through this part of the project and my aim has been to try and document what I did clearly to help others considering using these motors. "Update: I was stalled even further from posting this update due to personal and work issues and feeling basically bagged for energy."
So heres what i did. I decided to place my sensors between the slots for a cleaner look and compactness, and it really wasnt that hard, except seperating the rotor from the stator, those magnets are really strong, but i came up with a simple method to get them seperate. Motor disassembly
Step 1. remove the orange face on the bottom of the motor (where the wires come out)
Step 2. Remove the circlip and washer that lock the two pieces together
Step 3. Re-install the orange face with only 2 bolts
Step 4. install the aluminum mounting X with only 2 bolts
Step 5. Find the nose cone for the front of the blade and stand it up on the table
Step 6. Line up the bottom of the motor shaft with the top of the cone and push down.
The cone will push most of the way through the orange bottom facing and get the magnets far enough away from the stators that you can pull on the two halves to finish seperating. Initial Testing
For my first trial I soldered wire leads to the hall sensors, wrapped electrical tape around the center terminal and then wrapped all three terminals together and stuck them in the slots wrapping packing tape around to ensure the halls didnt come out into the magnets.
P.S. I used an old usb printer cable for my wire leads. In USB there are 4 wires Red, Black, white, Green. But don't we need 5? Yes, and there is a wire shielding that is wrapped around all of these wires and connected to the computer case to discharge any static that might try to get through the cable, so this became my 5th lead. Allowed for a very clean installation. When wiring my halls I used red and black for power supplies and white and green for two of my 3 leads. I then took another white wire and put stripes on it with a sharpie marker and attached that to the shielding wire.
My hall placement is marked in the following photo by the wire terminals i hung in the stator slots.Hall Placement
I was hoping the motors were built exactly the same each time but that proved wrong (more on this later) I don't know if it really makes a difference which slots you put them in as long as they are 120 degrees apart.
Important notes for testing
1. Use a current limited supply (I used my kellys with the motor and battery currents pushed down to bottom and running off a small 2.7 ah pack of batteries)
2. Test your halls b4 installation (I had one bad hall sensor that stalled progress for 15 minutes
For testing you can run all the wires out the back and terminate them externally to make the power connections. I did some testing and I got the motors running using the hall placement spreadsheet (used to keep track of wiring combinations) listed elsewhere on the forum. Will find the link later unless someone else posts it first. I was surprised by how little current the motor drew at idle speed. For me just 0.46 amps
I had seen others posting 1.5 -2 amps. Runs really smooth! (Video at bottom of post)
So after a successful test run it was time to do the permanent installation. I disassembled the motor again and removed the hall sensors and the black tape from the halls.
Next I put hot glue on the center terminal to insulate it from the others and bent the terminals as seen below (i found bending the hall leads made it easier to get the hall close to the face of the stator slots
Then I painted the wire lead with Plasti-dip (brush on electrical tape would also work)
This seals the connections and locks all the leads together so its kept compact.
Next I put down a strip of electrical tape in the stator slots to aid in getting the halls out without damaging the winding should one of them ever fail.
This is as good a time as any to mention another issue i found. See below!
Obviously, at 100 bucks a pop quality controll goes down the tube. I secured the loose wires with Lepage "flexible plastic adhesive" (AWESOME Stuff) and continued with my work.
Finally we come to glueing the sensors in. It's important to remember that having the hall sensors turned slightly will actually advance or retard the timing slightly so you want to get them as close to straight as possible. I used an epoxy to put them in because i had it handy but it would have been a better idea to use high temp rtv gasket sealer (sold in auto parts stores) to make removing them easier. Problem there is keeping them still while it sets.
After installing all three i twisted the wire leads to "neatify" them
And then soldered the leads all together keeping the wires as short as possible and plasti-dipped all connections
I then pulled the USB cable through the back end to tighten up the wires a bit and then secured the wires down with a bit more plasti-dip
Alll thats left now is to run the cable out the back end. I found it could not be run with one of the power wires as it was too tight in there so i opted to run it out one of the neighbouring holes. Here's how i did it.
And thats it!
Now for some motor running goodness!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxF5Zax380o
So, to save others time,
for a kelly controller at least, the phase wires are (CONFIRMED)
Hall wires for me were (WITH MY HALL WIRING scheme) (TO BE ADDED LATER)
for one motor but for the other one it was different though still followed the same sequence (NEEDS TO BE CONFIRMED accidentaly deleted my notes)