Ninja 250 Conversion in Progress

[bquick]

I've been working on a Ninja 250 conversion:

This is the bike I started with. The guy I bought it from said the engine lost power and it made him crash. It now cranks like it has no compression. Perfect! The windshield is broken off and some other cosmetic damage, but it's a nice platform to start from.

Before.jpg (66.26 KiB) Viewed 5629 times

This is my pot box for the throttle (pull-pull) and regenerative braking. I used the clutch lever for the brakes. The clutch already had a switch on it to keep you from starting in gear. I cut some off the actuator so the switch energizes when the clutch is first activated rather than when it's pulled all the way in. I then wired it through an ice-cube type relay so that it triggers my brake light as well as the regenerative braking.

Throttle and Brake.jpg (45.15 KiB) Viewed 5625 times

relay.jpg (64.03 KiB) Viewed 5606 times

I built a new windsheld and instrument panel. The instrument panel is covered with a sheet of lexan. The blank spot to the right is where my electronic display will eventually go.

Windshield and Dash.jpg (48.29 KiB) Viewed 5617 times

This motor mount will eventually hold a Perm 132 motor (I hope to get it in a week or so). It is designed to bolt to the existing motor mounts.

Motor Mount.jpg (59.68 KiB) Viewed 5611 times

The Perm motor prefers to rotate clockwise, so I had to flip the rear wheel. This meant I had to move the rear brake to the opposite side. I got a new rear tire since I had to flip the rear tire on the rim to get it to spin in the proper direction and it was dry rotted.

Rear Brake.jpg (56.02 KiB) Viewed 5603 times

I built a battery shelf using some 2" x 2" x 1/4" fiberglass angle. I screwed some 1/4" plexi-glass to the angles.

Battery Shelf.jpg (57.1 KiB) Viewed 5581 times

Here are the batteries. I'm using (80) 10 amp hour LifePO4 cells from Headway. I got them shipped directly from China. This will give me a 40 amp hour, 64 volt pack that's capable of 200 amps continuous, 400 amps peak.

This is half of the cells after initial soldering:

Soldered Cells.jpg (63.99 KiB) Viewed 5575 times

Here is one of two packs, soldered and stretch wrapped:

Finished Pack.jpg (51.42 KiB) Viewed 5576 times

[vanilla ice]

The bottom ends on those motors werent the strongest. Should be perfect for a convert, lightweight and plenty stout. The '08 250R's are so sexy. Makes me want to buy one.

[frodus]

nice looking bike....

what controller are you using? How much were those lifepo's? and what BMS/charger are you using?

[bquick]

I'm using a Kelly 72401 controller.

The batteries cost around $1800, including shipping.

To start with, I'm charging the batteries using a CellPro 10S from FMA Direct. It's made for charging R/C batteries. With it, I can charge half of the pack at a time at 6 amps. It will balance the cells as well. I'm working on building a low voltage cutoff device that may eventually also assist in balancing while charging.

I mounted most of the electrical components last night. I'm still waiting for the motor.

- Brad

[Malcolm]

Hi bquick
Looks like a well thought out build! I'm interested in the regen setup. Can't quite work out your arrangement. Are you using the clutch lever for regen braking, or using a twin cable throttle?

Looking forward to hearing how the headway cells perform as well.

Malcolm

[bquick]

Malcom,

Thanks for the comments.

Yes, and Yes. I'm using the clutch lever for regen braking. It pulls the single arm potentiometer. The trottle is pull-pull. In addition to the potentiometers, the Kelly controller also has a provision for a switch to energize the braking and a separate switch to energize the throttle. I'm not sure if these are required or not. The clutch already has a switch on it, so I made that switch power a DPDT relay. One pole of the relay controls the brake light. The other side energizes the brake switch. When the brake isn't activated, it energizes the throttle switch.

- Brad

[Jozzer]

FYI, the switch for throttle isn't required (throttle works without it) but the switch for the brake IS needed (no regen without it). Brake switch needs PWR voltage to function..
The brake is supposed to run on halls 0-5v, though I had to adjust a halls throttle to really give 0-5 (not 1-4v), since theres no dead zone calibration in the software. All the regen happens in the first 1/4 twist. I'd suggest you aim for 0-3v to make it to the AN1 pin..

Nice project, looking good!

Steve

[bquick]

Steve,

Thanks for the input. I was originally thinking that I needed 0-5K on the brake. I used a 10K pot because my mechanism doesn't spin the pot far enough to use the full range. The other night I realized that the brake needs 0-5V, so I wired it accordingly but I'll only get about 0-3V out which is what you suggest.

If it performs anything like your bike, I'll be happy!

- Brad

[bquick]

I'm still waiting for my motor to arrive.

Here are some new photos:

It's a little difficult to see, but the Kelly controller is mounted to an aluminum sheet. To the left is a Sevcon DC-DC converter.

Controller.jpg (57.43 KiB) Viewed 4987 times

This is the other end of the aluminum sheet. On the left is the main disconnect. On the right is a shunt and fuse.

Contactor.jpg (54.57 KiB) Viewed 5001 times

Here are some copper bars used to attach the main disconnect and fuse to the controller.

bussbar.jpg (40.45 KiB) Viewed 4971 times

The bottom of the gas tank was a little close to the top of the battery packs, so I cut the bottom of the gas tank out. Saves weight too.

tank.jpg (42.77 KiB) Viewed 4985 times

I mounted a 4 x 40 backlit LDC display to the dashboard.

dash.jpg (43.65 KiB) Viewed 4983 times

- Brad

[bquick]

It's finally running!

Here's a video of a ride on it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5l3BaYCV-w

I was able to hit 60 mph, but my motor was getting hot, so I geared it way down. It currently maxes out at 48 mph. I'm planning on going up a tooth on the front sprocket to bump up the speed a little.

I've ridden it to work and back (11.2 miles each way) for the past three days. Until I get my BMS working, I'm charging it when at work and at home.

Acceleration is good, but It draws 250 amps on hard acceleration. It takes 60 amps to cruise at 48 mph.

- Brad

[Jozzer]

Nice job:)

I can run mine for 20 miles hard on a hot (25C...It is England!) day before the motor reaches 70C. My controller see's over 300A batteryside, and I regularly run the bike over 60 or even 70 mph. Main difference between our builds are that I have a clean airway to the top half of the motor maybe?
When things get warm, I turn on one of these ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marine-b ... 0237726276). Generally it will scrub off 10C or so, and let me finish the batts off before the temp gets above 70 again. It especially helps when you have had a hard run, then sit in traffic. When you get clear and ready to thrash again, the motor is much cooler.

Nice neighbors you have there too:) Say hi from the internet!

Steve

[frodus]

It's finally running!

I've ridden it to work and back (11.2 miles each way) for the past three days. Until I get my BMS working, I'm charging it when at work and at home.

Acceleration is good, but It draws 250 amps on hard acceleration. It takes 60 amps to cruise at 48 mph.

- Brad

Great job on the build.... awesome project. Why did you cut the tank like that? to swap batteries easily?

what is your front/rear sprocket ratio? I'm at 4:1, and ordering a 60tooth rear so I can do 5:1.

Is that 250A on the battery side or motor side?

My EM hits ~80A on Battery side at 72V, but I get 350A on the motor side under heave acceleration, with a 6.7" ADC motor, custom Synkromotive controller and that 4:1 ratio. We topped out at 63 or so (see my evfr http://www.youtube.com/frodus17 ).

Keep some cooling on that motor. Does it have a built in fan? Thats the great thing about 6/7" motors, they've got a fan in the shaft output end that sucks from the brushes, through the field windings and out the face.

[bquick]

Steve,

On a normal ride to work, it doesn't get all that hot. I'm going to have to gear it back up to where I can hit 55 mph. My current ratio is 13 to 60. If i go 15 to 60, I should hit 55 mph

Frodus,

I cut the tank out so that I could keep anything metal away from the batteries. My plan is to fill the tank with battery chargers.

I'm currently charging with an FMA direct 10S charger. It can charge 10 cells at at time, so I have to do half the pack at at time.

- Brad

[Jay64]

Nice.

[recumpence]

Hmm, gearing up for 55? I might have to do the same!

Great build, Man. Very good to hear from you too.

I keep running across your number in my address book. I will give you a ring soon.

Matt

[Stroppy]

Wow!!! Absolutely brilliant!!! I wish I had the skill to do something this cool...me, I have trouble fiddling about with my electric scooter!!!
I tip my hat to you, Sir!!!

[pgt400]

Awesome build, I pick up my donor Ninja 250 this Saturday. 03' Yellow in Mint condition, 1100 miles....except for carbs need a good cleaning. Been sitting for a few years, will only idle. I ordered the ETEK-RT. Planning to use 72v, 35 AH SLA's to start. I'd like to tuck the motor up over the wheel in from of the monoshock....think it will fit and still leave some suspension travel? Did you use the stock chain? The RT has a lower rpm per volt so will probably be 4:1. I plan to gear for 50 max. When lifepo4s come down next year I'll upgrade.

Phil

[pgt400]

Did you use the stock chain? Or a #41? The ETEK RT has a KV of ~50, so 4:1 should be ok. I think the stock rear is 46 so a 12 up fron should be close enough to start with.

[bquick]

I know this is an old post, but I used #41 chain. It's holding up great so far.

- Brad

[pgt400]

Brad, So how did the AGM's work out for you this last season? What was your average AH and miles per charge? I'm going Lifepo4 this spring, either TS60's or headways.