Bazaki wrote:I made a Cell log alarm out of a 3 bucks smoke detector.
amberwolf wrote:Here's a basic add-on to the existing circuit that trips a relay from the opto, in this case with the relay wired to switch off the AC outlet (presumably to the charger).
I don't have a link to an exact part for the relay, as RS doesn't have a 24V coil version, but Digikey or Mouser should. This is the RS 12V coil version:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Value=DPDT
The pinouts on these are almost always the same, so if necessary sockets can be used to hold the relays and they can be swapped out. If you have any old dead larger-capacity UPS units it is quite possible they have relays in them that could be used, too.
I also didn't search out links for the other parts, but they are easy to find (you probably even have junk electronics laying around with these in there--many UPS units will have *all* of the parts to do this, including the buzzer, opto, and resistor you need for the original).
The Journey Guy wrote:Nice, amberwolf!! I have one question about the additional components. The resistor that goes between pin 4 of the Opto and the Base of the NPN transistor, you have listed as a 1K - 10K 1/4 watt. Would you mind explaining that to me in more detail? My electronics schooling is a bit rusty.
And is there a way that your wizard mind can think of to drop the voltage to 12-15v between the Emitter of the NPN and the Positive pin of the relay, so that I could use the RS relay you provided a link to? Is it possible to use another resistor of some sort?
amberwolf wrote:Oh, and in case it isn't obvious from the labels on the schematic, one idea for enclosing all the stuff is to put the entire circuit inside a power strip. Personally I would cut the wires in it to all but one of the outlets, so that you are never tempted to try plugging in more than one thing to it for any reason, and end up damaging the relay.
The Journey Guy wrote:But I can see right now that I'm outta my league when it comes to several things you just said.
.I'll study on the information you provided, and see if I can muddle my way through it. But I have a sinking feeling that if someone doesn't take the time and effort to spoon-feed me through this additional circuit, I probably won't be able to do it
I suppose I'm at that stage in my life where I can certainly follow step-by-step directions, with detailed components to use and all that. But when it comes to the analysis of the components needed, the power requirements, and all the rest, I'm past my prime.
Bazaki wrote:Yup, and removed the plastic case from the smoke detector, so it is very small now
The Journey Guy wrote:Bazaki wrote:Yup, and removed the plastic case from the smoke detector, so it is very small now
Well, where were you when I was trying to figure all this out then? Your post would have saved me quite a bit of cash, not to mention time and effort. I blame you totally for not stepping forward with this information long ago!
Kidding, of course. But you can bet that after work today, I'll be doing some testing and see how well this works. But if I blow up a perfectly good CellLog, then I'll expect you to replace it for me. LOL
But seriously, for what I want, your solution will be perfect if I can get it to do as you say it will. Many thanks!!
scoot wrote:I'm sooooo proud of myself I need a dancing banana emotocon
First two teenee weenee solder joints I ever did... way ugly
Set the CellLog HV to 3.2v to ensure a trigger
Set the alarm condition to "NO" which i think menas normally open, but dunno the other option was "NC"... normally closed???
Plugged in the cellLog to my full pack and the little alarm output connector (soldered to the smoke alarm switch) and........... yesssssss!!!!! SUCCESSSSSS!!!!!!
dumbass wrote: I opened one up and stripped it down to just the speaker and controller
amberwolf wrote:Can't let stuff just go to waste now, can I?
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