Noob Lipo Dummy (need a Lot of help)

[neptronix]

250amp?!!?

What kind of hell-beast motor-controller setup draws that kinda juice?

[AussieJester]

250amp?!!?

What kind of hell-beast motor-controller setup draws that kinda juice?

Castle Controller HV160 on high settings when hooked to Turnigy 80-100 130kv or Astro 3220 motors.

KiM

[neptronix]

damn....
how fast can you go?

[AussieJester]

damn....
how fast can you go?

Depends on the chain rings/sprockets i run one of the advantages imo of a non hub drive is being able to change gear ratios at the drop of a hat to suit your needs Currently i have it geared low to tackle the hilly terrain where i live whilst towing my wheelchair behind the bike and thus have it gear limited at ~60km/hr acceleration is outstanding ...would be well capable of 75-85km/hr maybe more i think if geared for it..(i cant realistically go above 45km/hr with wheelchair in tow as it starts bouncing around and flips on its side, rather scary the first time it happened) I thinkz we should getz back on topic before this thread gets totally derailed /OT discussion my end apologies OP

KiM

[spinningmagnets]

Kim, just read what you posted about 4mm bullet-connectors, so I had a quick look. I didn't know what connectors came with the battery I ordered because at the time, the info posted was thin. I notice now that "some" of the listings have more information, so I guess "Sum Yung Guy" is typing as fast as he can to update the web-catalogue.

If you are only going to run a single brick of LiPo, get the 30C, but if you will parallel several bricks to get better range, I recommend to get all 25C packs, 10/12AWG wire, 4mm bullets...

edit: heres an alternate wire supplier based in the US that was posted recently:
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1511/10-AWG-Silicone-wire/Detail

I was interested in the 6S 5000mAh packs, and they now actually do list the 25C pack connectors as 4mm, and they also do verify the 30C connectors AND the 5800 size pack connectors are 5.5mm

(5800/25C = 5.5mm, 5000/30C = 5.5mm,...5000/25C or smaller = 4mm)

edit: if you are ordering these connectors from Hobby King, might as well throw in some Heat-Shrink-Insulation (HSI). The comments section seems to indicate that 6mm HSI (available in black/red) works well to cover the 4mm female bullets.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?catname=Shrink+Tube&idCategory=375&ParentCat=58

[TopCat]

Hi Guys,
Been looking into a power supply for the Icharger1010b+ and am wondering would any of these be suitable?

Propeak Power Supply 240>13.8v 20A Auto



The ProPeak 13.8v power supply is a high quality switch mode power supply with a particularly smooth output current, making it suitable for use with almost all 12v input chargers available today. Using switch mode technology gives greater efficiency and reduces the weight and size of the power supply compared to older units. The maximum 20 Amp output allows fast charging of even high voltage battery packs.

Technical Data:
• Input voltage range: 190~240v AC
• Output voltage: 13.8v DC regulated
• Current rating: 0~20 Amps
• Output connections: 4mm Banana/Clamp type.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fusion 200W Adjustable Power Supply.



The PS200 Adjustable is a regulated 5~15V power supply with current limiting from 0~15A. With an LCD readout showing the voltage and current being supplied, it can also be used to charge Lead Acid batteries.

Features

* Input Voltage: 220~240V AC
* Output Voltage: 5~15V DC Regulated
* Current Rating: 0~15 Amps
* Output Connections: 4mm Banana Sockets / Clamps.


Regards
Tom

[AussieJester]

Got links to website for these please i might be interested in one of these myself, to use
for my anodizing psu!!!

KiM

[TopCat]

Here ya go kim,

http://www2.ripmax.net/item.asp?itemid=O-IP2000&Category=070

Fusion also do a twin Power Supply.
http://www.cmfhobbies.com/Chargers-and-Power-Supplies/Power-Supply/C46-41-1-0.htm

Iv'e also seen a few on ebay.

Here's another...


The new ProPeak dual output 13.8v power supply is a high quality switch mode power supply with a particularly smooth output current, making it suitable for use with almost all 12v input chargers available today. The dual outputs allow easy connection of two chargers, to take advantage of the exceptionally high maximum current of 20 Amps, and the LCD readout gives at a glance an exact reading of the current being supplied by the power supply.

Technical Data:
• Input voltage range: 190~240v AC
• Output voltage: 13.8v DC regulated
• Current rating: 0~20 Amps
• Output connections: Twin 4mm Banana/Clamp type
• LCD Amperage readout

http://www.rcmodelcentre.co.uk/Power-Supply-20A-13-8V-Twin-Output/prod_6088.html

Regards
Tom

[AussieJester]

Cheers bookmarked ...GGoodrum has just done a review on the new Hyperion 1420i chargers, much better than the Icharger your buying IMO and he is doing a 25 dollar discount for ES members on them on his website tppacks.com so $US180-25 bucks= $155 If you want to charge your lipos fast and safely he has a full easy to follow write up on it
in this section of the forum. viewtopic.php?f=14&t=23362 I will be using this exact setup on my new bike... Meanwels are ~50 bucks off ebay new to power the Hyperion, you want safe and fast bulk Lipo charging/balancing theres your answer..

KiM

[TopCat]

Sadly Iv'e already ordered/bought the Icharger101b+ from HK so i'll make do with that for the time being. Further funds are now going into a power supply - batteries more wire and anything else i'll need to keep an eye on my batts while I ride.

I still have a lot I could be getting on with but with 2ft of snow covering everything in my area...well

Any news on your missing seat Kim?

Regards
Tom

[AussieJester]

Sadly Iv'e already ordered/bought the Icharger101b+ from HK so i'll make do with that for the time being. Further funds are now going into a power supply - batteries more wire and anything else i'll need to keep an eye on my batts while I ride.

I still have a lot I could be getting on with but with 2ft of snow covering everything in my area...well

Any news on your missing seat Kim?

Regards
Tom

Its not missings, its in Mexico :-S Recumpence has been in contact with the seller as he is in Chicago where the seller is has been told they are looking into it...

KiM

[TopCat]

I ended up going for the Propeak Power Supply 240>13.8v 20A Auto, which I got for £20 of ebay. It shouldn't take to long to get here as the seller is only just 40mile up the road in Glasgow.



Regards
Tom

[TopCat]

Hi Guy's,

My ICharger 1010B+ finally arrived today.After checking the contents of the box I see no way of - Out of the box quickly charging the 2 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 25C Lipo Packs I have.
There doesn't seem to be any way (through lack of proper leads) of charging up my batts until I make up some kind of charging lead Unless I do something like this...?



and use the crocodile clips on the ends of the battery connections. Looks a bit dodgy!!

I think I may have to snip the croc clips off the Icharger leads and solder on a HXT 4mm Gold Connector....



so I can start charging up my batts. I'll solder another HXT 4mm gold connector onto the croc clips so I can quickly plug the croc clips back together should I ever need to use them.

I'll also need to make up a lead to connect my 2 batts in series.

This is the list of battery related stuff I have so far.

1 Icharger 101B+.
1 Propeak Power Supply 240>13.8v 20A Auto.
4 Meters of 12awg wire. 2 mtrs Red & 2 mtrs black.
2 Packs (20 in total) of HXT 4mm Gold Connectors.

Looks like my night will be spent doing some soldering

As I have never used one of these chargers before are there any tips - things I should look out for etc.

Regards
Tom

[TopCat]

Hi guy's,

Think Im going to need a bit of help wiring up my 6 batts (4 new) to run my 36V 500w motor.

I have already used 2 batts hooked up with a harness like this and all runs well...



but im running into the unknown tryting to hook up 6 batss?

I was planning to do it like this...

Step 1.
Make up 3 sets of serial harnesses like so. One for each of the 3 sets of lipos.



Step 2.
Make up 2 long leads with HXT 4mm Gold Connectors - (same connectors that come fitted on lipo batteries). Soldering the connectors on each end of the long leads will be relitivly simple - one for the connection to the controller and one for the last set on batts - (last set of batts on right of picture). The splicing of the 1st & 2nd sets of batts will be a bit tricky. WHY dont they make a 2 into 1 connector?

Step 3.
Hopefully when all done it should look something like this...



Im just checking to see if I have this right? before I go blowing myself up.

Regards
Tom

[BikeFanatic]

The question is do you hook up the batteries in series first then paralleled, like you did, or do you hook them up parallel first?
I am new to this and have wondered about that question not sure what the Correct answer is , but I know what works for me.

I have done both, and it works. I would say measure the voltages first of each group and make sure they are close
or exact, before hooking in parallel. Since they are the same chemistry you should be fine.

In other words do not hook a dead pact to a full pack in parallel or the full will charge the dead one very fast, may melt your wires.

good luck, If you want to wait for an expert to chime in just take one of those packs in series instead of all three and run your bike on that. bring the extra pack in your bag and switch them out, then you can ride today and it is a beautiful day to ride around here.

[RallySTX]

TC, I sent you a pm, and I don't think one string of two batteries will get you very far. Remember, don't overcharge, don't overdraw, and don't forget to grin. Brian L.

[EBJ]

The question is do you hook up the batteries in series first then paralleled, like you did, or do you hook them up parallel first?
I am new to this and have wondered about that question not sure what the Correct answer is , but I know what works for me.

i think the main reason hook up their packs in parallel first is for ease of balancing.
When hooked in parallel, the balance tabs can also be hooked in parallel. So 3 batteries hook up in parallel would alow thoe three batteries to share just one balance tab, allowing you to charge and balance all three of those packs as one really large Ah pack. Example: Hooking up three 5Ah (5,000mah) packs in parallel, and connecting the balance tabs in parallel as well, when plugged into the charger it sees it as a 15Ah pack. (and balances the cells (grouped in threes now) accordingly)

[TopCat]

TC, I sent you a pm, and I don't think one string of two batteries will get you very far. Remember, don't overcharge, don't overdraw, and don't forget to grin. Brian L.

Hi Brian,

I got your PM but it was after I seen this post. In your little pic there areonly 4 batts, im planning on using 6. I'll let you use your little pic setup on your bike first and wait for the results.
Your probably right that 1 string of 6 batts wont get me very far BUT a string of 6 batts will get me a lot further than the 2 iv'e been using for months

As to the lead/charging harness you linked to on EP buddy....

4mm Bullet Conector Parallel Charge Cable.

"This power cable is used for charging up to six batteries with 4mm bullet connectors in parallel.
Made of quality 12 gauge and 14 gauge flexible silicone rubber wires."
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=165

Would I also need to get a balance lead/harness as well? and hook both leads/harnesses up to all my 6 batts to charge and balance them?

5S JST-XH Parallel Balance Cable X6.

"This cable is used for parallel charging up to six 5S LiPo batteries with JST-XH balance plugs."
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_14&products_id=57

Im still waiting to see if any experts will post and let me know if the setup I planned on using will work or blow me up?



Note- All batts in above picture will be fully charged up before hooking up to the leads. This setup is NOT repeat NOT for charging up the batts but for running my bike at 36V for longer range.

Regards
Tom

[mattetjus]

hey TC,

It will work, BUT, as i understand it (anyone feel free to correct me):

in case that the battery cells are not equally strong, e.g. capacity differs slightly between the individual cells, they may go out of balance.

A rule of thumb it is to parallel lithium cells first, then put them in series;

as you have the packs in your figure, (i'll name your cells, from left to right, A1, A2; B1, B2; C1, C2, attached png-picture) , I'll call this
---
CASE A
---
you have the two packs A1 and A2 in series (likewise, B1+B2 and C1+C2) and these will then be paralleled with the B's and C's;
When/if a cell in e.g. A1 goes bad, as in internal short circuit or something, or if it simply runs out of juice before the others; the B1+B2 and C1+C2 strings will have higher potential than A1+A2 and will discharge some of their capacity through A1+A2, meaning: all cells in B1, B2, C1 and C2 may go below their acceptable Low Voltage.

---
CASE B
---
Now, if keeping the cells paralleled (for you, this could be, connecting the balancing cables of A1+B1+C1 together, and likewise A2+B2+C2), you will 'only' endanger 3 cells in the case of a single bad cell.


for example, Cell 1 in pack A1 goes bad:
in your figure, potentially all the cells in B1, B2, C1, C2 could go below their preferred Low Voltage Cut Off -- 4 of 6 packs may go completely dead + pack A1 lost 1 of its cells.
If paralleled first, you'd discharge the first cells in B1 and C1 through the bad cell in A1 -> you now have 3 of 6 packs which have one bad cell each. (a bit better than the risk of 4 completely dead packs)

[TopCat]

hey TC,

It will work, BUT, as i understand it (anyone feel free to correct me):

in case that the battery cells are not equally strong, e.g. capacity differs slightly between the individual cells, they may go out of balance.

A rule of thumb it is to parallel lithium cells first, then put them in series;

as you have the packs in your figure, (i'll name your cells, from left to right, A1, A2; B1, B2; C1, C2, attached png-picture) , I'll call this
---
CASE A
---
you have the two packs A1 and A2 in series (likewise, B1+B2 and C1+C2) and these will then be paralleled with the B's and C's;
When/if a cell in e.g. A1 goes bad, as in internal short circuit or something, or if it simply runs out of juice before the others; the B1+B2 and C1+C2 strings will have higher potential than A1+A2 and will discharge some of their capacity through A1+A2, meaning: all cells in B1, B2, C1 and C2 may go below their acceptable Low Voltage.

---
CASE B
---
Now, if keeping the cells paralleled (for you, this could be, connecting the balancing cables of A1+B1+C1 together, and likewise A2+B2+C2), you will 'only' endanger 3 cells in the case of a single bad cell.


for example, Cell 1 in pack A1 goes bad:
in your figure, potentially all the cells in B1, B2, C1, C2 could go below their preferred Low Voltage Cut Off -- 4 of 6 packs may go completely dead + pack A1 lost 1 of its cells.
If paralleled first, you'd discharge the first cells in B1 and C1 through the bad cell in A1 -> you now have 3 of 6 packs which have one bad cell each. (a bit better than the risk of 4 completely dead packs)

Hi mattetjus, thanks for the input. I'll do another diagram in paint just to make sure I got it right before I go making any leads. Until then i'll just need to do what ianmacnally2 suggested

just take one of those packs in series instead of all three and run your bike on that. bring the extra pack in your bag and switch them out,

. Of course that would also mean taking a screwdriver with me to open the big gray box on my bike and swap out the batts.


Regards
Tom

[TopCat]

I done another diagram, hopefully someone will chip in and tell me if this is right?

6 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 25C Lipo Packs wired to give 36v for more range on my bike.



Regards
Tom

[docnjoj]

Yep! Much better. Parallel first then series. Those series wires should be maybe at least 10 ga. depending on the amp draw you desire and the speed you want.
otherDoc

[RallySTX]

I don't think the drawing is correct. I hope I'm wrong but the easy way to tell is to check the controller leads with a voltmeter when it's done.
Brian L.

[mattetjus]

yeah, the drawing is a bit hard to decrypt

Hope this helps:
rename B1 -> A3, B2-> B1, C1 -> B2, C2 -> B3: A1-3 and B1-3
Connect First three packs in parallel (incl. balance cables), connect last three packs in parallel and then do the two paralleled blocks in series (see fig.)

[docnjoj]

Oops! On closer inspection it looks like the 2 sets of 3 are also in parallel. Perhaps make it simple with 3 packs side by side in parallel x 2 and then series wire the 2 sets to get the 44 volts. For parallel all the + leads and all the - leads should be together. Then put the 2 sets of 3 in series.
otherDoc.