A123 AMP20M1HD-A Battery pack kit

[agniusm]

From post office. You can buy insurance for 7USD, there is a catch thou. Post office will declare the amount and you will be charged import tax on goods and shipping, applies to countries outside EU. Basically it is up to you, with insurance i guaranty that if goods get lost i will bounce back payment through PayPal, if not, shame on you , not my fault. I will keep receipts to prove that goods were sent.
Thanks

[docnjoj]

It might pay to take a lesson from the Chinese and lable the packages "Toy Bicycle parts".
otherDoc

[totinen]

I have one left as Kristoffer have reserved yesterday, sorry mate.

This is whats available:
6 x 6S
1 x 4S
1 x 12S

How about my 1x24?

[ohzee]

So how fast do you think you will be able to make these going forward and how much work is it approximately ?
Just curious really don't have any grand plans.

[agniusm]

To toninen:

Took long time to get blocks done and people were backing off so i done it first come first serve basis. Sorry about that. I could not risk making lots of kits and ending up not selling them. if there is interest, there will be more to come and should be a lot quicker to manufacture.

[agniusm]

So how fast do you think you will be able to make these going forward and how much work is it approximately ?
Just curious really don't have any grand plans.

This was lots of work on PC and driving to manufacturers with many let downs due block production. At the end i found one who would make these blocks out of aluminium, but paid top price as it is a lot of manual work cleaning up each block and threads (you'll see when you receive your kit what i mean). I spend some money on sheets of brass. Aluminium in the end is better as it is more conductive and a lot lighter. So to round it up, it depends on demand, otherwise there is no point.

[docnjoj]

Hey agniusm
I'll tell you it seems that you really are in a position to "corner the market" with these kits. If I were a supplier of A123 cells I would be trying to develop a relationship to start making large numbers of these kits, for both the Velo and Motorcycle markets as well as the ebike. Maybe I'm wrong but your kit makes using the way A123 developed these cells easily assembled and without a huge factory with sonic welders, just people assembling packs. Just my 2 ohms worth. Good luck to you! You deserve it for the effort and quality.
otherDoc

[deVries]

...I have developed few other toys as an option to help build the pack but this is just a glimpse and will reveal when i will have some viable info from mfr. I want to work on a tripple hole punch so it would be easy to do large amounts of cells in fraction of time, maybe sample for my self at first

Let us know something more about these toys...

Thanks.

[agniusm]

Was thinking on offering heatsinks similar to what A123 is using for modules and aluminium end plates to complete the pack. This is if kits will sell. Will put some more info later when power in da house will be switched on, electric works on the line.
All kits were posted, tracking sent. Hope all is good and everyone will be happy with their hobby part smaples

[docnjoj]

Yes I do look forward to my "hobby part sample" arriving. Good choice of title for the Post Office.
otherDoc

[agniusm]

just checking if everyone got their tracking by email? Packages leaving tomorrow my town. It took me an hour to post them, stone age up here in post office..

I have mentioned before what tools to use, just repeating myself.
2mm alen key, 2.5mm alen key, star screwdriver, small and large flat screwdriver. As you start building your pack, use insulating tape to mask out blocks to avoid shorts, believe me it happens:). I would suggest using thread lock on bolts, light to medium strength, tiny drop for peace of mind. It is handy to mount your BMS on front plate of the kit if it fits:



Fit 10mm spacers on to cell board first, easier this way. 7 of the 8 way connector pins are used (Not applicable to 4S kit). Check, then double check and then triple check your balance wires, than check again with voltmeter
If someone gonna be pulling lots of amps, my advice is to buff 10mm blocks to fit terminals directly on to the block.

To prepare your cells, insert one with full tabs, bend it and mark the length through second cell opening. This way you will get proper tab length. Dont use large scissors as you will get short's when trimming tabs or be extra careful. Holes should be drilled 5mm from the side edge of the tab for side holes and 22.5mm from ether side of the tab for center hole. For horizontal spacing mark when in the slot, measure using caliper. I drilled them 3.5mm drill bit. Roughness does not play big role in performance, rather in assembling the pack. Aluminum tab drills good and clean and fot nickel plated tabs i would say that high RPM tool would work better, like dremel or similar.

If there is doubt, always ask, will be glad to help.

Thanks

[docnjoj]

I got mine! Thanks agniusm.
otherDoc

[deVries]

Yes, I received your post office receipt image, thanks.

Thank you for being so helpful & prompt in your services too. Your video manual "sold" me to buy immediately & play with sparks!

On your amp-test video I think it would be interesting in future test videos if you have some temperature probes in "strategic locations" just to learn of any "stress points" where temperatures increase. (Check for light-reflections too, since the LCD screen could not be read in some tests.)

I think another valuable test would be to test for 50A, 40A, & 30A continuous (5-10 minutes) to see if there is any difference with heat build-up issues.

Do you think it would be a good idea to use high-temp petroleum jelly or other anti-oxi-gel to coat the contact areas immediately after prep-work by buffing or using sandpaper or steel-wool or other cleaning recommendations?

Thanks.

[agniusm]

Yes, I received your post office receipt image, thanks.

Thank you for being so helpful & prompt in your services too. Your video manual "sold" me to buy immediately & play with sparks!

On your amp-test video I think it would be interesting in future test videos if you have some temperature probes in "strategic locations" just to learn of any "stress points" where temperatures increase. (Check for light-reflections too, since the LCD screen could not be read in some tests.)

I think another valuable test would be to test for 50A, 40A, & 30A continuous (5-10 minutes) to see if there is any difference with heat build-up issues.

Do you think it would be a good idea to use high-temp petroleum jelly or other anti-oxi-gel to coat the contact areas immediately after prep-work by buffing or using sandpaper or steel-wool or other cleaning recommendations?

Thanks.

Thanks. I have done videos my self, first time and in a hurry to post here so errors came along as one would expect . Next ones will be more lit up and meter readings clearly visible. Amp draw will be repeated with probe on terminals. I had no heavy duty breaker to operate the rig, there fore because of bad connection on the bus it got hot. Mate promised to get me that breaker today, but nothing. Will ring him up tomorrow. I will do ~50 and ~100a continuous test and that should cover most of e-bike builds. Just need to get some balancing wires to charge test pack with iCharger (ordered few from hobbyking)
I would only buff the end terminals as others are for clamping only. I cant advise you on solution regarding corrosion as it would take some time to test if it corrodes or not.

[ohzee]

Got mine thanks.. can't wait

[deVries]

Got mine thanks.. can't wait

Yes, now we wait a bit...

I have done videos my self, first time and in a hurry to post here so errors came along as one would expect .

I think your video manual was very good Agniusm. The sparks are very good to show, because it is a fair "warning" of what might happen if you don't take precautions. No KFC though.

[Doctorbass]

I just hope you did not forget my order for 2 x 16s kit? I asked for them in de first requests!

I can send the money right now

Doc

[totinen]

I just hope you did not forget my order for 2 x 16s kit? I asked for them in de first requests!

I can send the money right now

Doc

At least he forgot mine 1 x 24s kit.

[agniusm]

I didn't forget Doctorbass, and you were the person i thought would be good to sell a kit or two for reliable feedback but i thought with victpower selling modules and thread going quiet nobody was interested anymore so people who came first and ordered got all the big kits and i have left with 1 x 12S, 10 x 6S and 2 x 4S. I have to apologize to all who was still interested in the background, and i can not fix this inconvenience quickly to keep everyone happy. My sincere apologies to all.

P.S. I have some blocks left to get maybe one 16S knocked up quick, but not much more.
I have manufacturers now and things will go quicker. I will ask here if people will be willing to put in 20% in advance because a lot changed their mind on configuration or not getting it at all, so it would be my safety and everyone genuinely interested would get their kits. Its hard for one man with one mans finance to get stuff moving.

[agniusm]

Got mine thanks.. can't wait

Yes, now we wait a bit...

I have done videos my self, first time and in a hurry to post here so errors came along as one would expect .

I think your video manual was very good Agniusm. The sparks are very good to show, because it is a fair "warning" of what might happen if you don't take precautions. No KFC though.

KFC? We live here on Organic food, home grown stuff I do not buy coke, crisps etc. Trying be healthy.

[Doctorbass]

I didn't forget Doctorbass, and you were the person i thought would be good to sell a kit or two for reliable feedback and i have left with 1 x 12S, 10 x 6S and 2 x 4S.
P.S. I have some blocks left to get maybe one 16S knocked up quick, but not much more.

OK, i understand. Do you think it would be possible to get that 16s and 1 12s and one 4s to make my 2 x 16s ^

because in reality i need a 16s2p... that<s why i ask for 2 x 16s.. but if it will take too long for the next batch i would take 1 x 16s + 1 x 12s + 1 x 4s.

It<s to make my Zero motorcycle boost pack!.. and i need 40Ah and 16s

[deVries]

I think your video manual was very good Agniusm. The sparks are very good to show, because it is a fair "warning" of what might happen if you don't take precautions. No KFC though.

KFC? We live here on Organic food, home grown stuff I do not buy coke, crisps etc. Trying be healthy.

KFC is a big painful joke on ES, because it stands for Kentucky Fried Finger. Search on ES for KFC** <== use ** too. Also, search Kentucky, and you will find the pics of KFC I am referring to.

That's great you eat well too. No KFC either way.

[agniusm]

Have got old russian switch free, good for 400amp, will be using 2 of the 3, good for 260amps.

Will clean it up and make a new base. Should do for my test rig.

[megacycle]

Thats the ac rating 3ph by the look of it and there are several ratings depending on use,
but still be well rated for a crazy load of dc
Good thing about an open switch, like that, burn it switching, if its not to pitted, can just clean contacts up,
Would expect large initial inrush on the lamps, but thats good would expect similar on a motor.
Might be able to make better use of the switch connections as they look well overated, common negatives together,
main pos commoned on incoming 3 connections and place a sleeve over the poles not used during the testing, then you have 3 tests possible.
Oh were the volt drops on your load tests what you would expect. Your DVM was showing healthy volts on the cells, would be good to see that test with a cell log hanging of the connector looking for volt drops at cell level, yeh the temp sensor or infra red would be great if you have one.

[agniusm]

yea, it is 3ph switch, i thougth test rig frankenstein style i do not have cell log but can i use icharger to monitor cells? i just ordered balance wires for it. i will be able to monitor temps with sensor on my meter.