Ezee battery charged, but no output

[rkosiorek]

it is usually something simple.

happy that you'll be riding again.

rick

[voicecoils]

Nice work, good to hear it was something simple.

Riding on the road can be hard on electrical connections.

[voicecoils]

I just got through with what sounds like the same problem...I have an Ezee battery pack as well and have used it about 6 months although I bought it about 2 years ago. I kept it charged for when I was able to ride. About a month ago it just stopped running when I tried to ride one day...and when i put meter to it it ready 40-41 volts ( 36 volt battery pack) and yet my bike didn't work. I just had some help from another member in my area and he found that when connected to the controller the juice fell from 40-41 volts down to 8-9! That clearly is not enough to run a bike. Although when I opened up the battery pack I didn't see any bulging or other malconditions clearly something is wrong. Try and put your meter to the back of the connector on the controller side and see what readings you get.

If the voltage falls rapidly towards 0v, it's likely the BMS has cut power to the output terminals.

You may have a bad cell or faulty BMS unit, but you'll need to open the case to check connections, internal fuses and cell voltages. What sort of eZee pack do you have? Some go in a rear rack with Anderson connectors, others slide vertically behind the seat and there's a version that goes in a side pannier bag with Anderson connectors.

[medusa569]

I have opened the case and I see the fuse and perhaps the bms....Other than a 36 volts pack with the silver plastic case I mount mine on the back rack as the case it comes in has side mount hook like lanniers. I don't like the weight on one side so I strap it center to my rack. It did have Anderson's on it but Ii changed them to bullets.

eZee battery 36 volt

If the voltage falls rapidly towards 0v, it's likely the BMS has cut power to the output terminals.

You may have a bad cell or faulty BMS unit, but you'll need to open the case to check connections, internal fuses and cell voltages. What sort of eZee pack do you have? Some go in a rear rack with Anderson connectors, others slide vertically behind the seat and there's a version that goes in a side pannier bag with Anderson connectors.[/quote]

[kevo]

I have an older Ezee Torq (lightweight 250w model) that required battery replacements as well. Curious if other ES members have compared the various older Ezee geared hubs to the newer ones.

Can't decide if Justin's 400w kit is worth it for upgrading. There are lots of steep hills in Bay Area. Brundle-Rat, YPedal or others: have you compared Ezee motors of different watt ratings

[medusa569]

I don't have an eZee motor ..just the battery. I have nine continent front hub motor..500W..nice ride but really not powerful on the inclines. I have to pedal to help it along....straight aways are great.

medusa

Can't decide if Justin's 400w kit is worth it for upgrading. There are lots of steep hills in Bay Area. Medusa, Brundle-Rat, YPedal or others: have you compared Ezee motors of different watt ratings

[kevo]

OK Medusa, will edit. DD are nice too

[kevo]

Medusa wrote: [Nine Continent 9C} not powerful on the inclines.

Have you checked out Methods various winds for the 9C?

[999zip999]

Maybe Ilia at ebikessf.com open his store front in S.F. yet. Go for a ride.

[Brundle-rat]

Thanks, Kevo!

Well I "buttoned it up" but found that it didn't run. The problem was slightly different this time -- the light near the key switch flashed just once. I tried jiggling the key and found that I could get the green "OK" light to come on, but it quickly went off with a little more jiggling. I checked my solder joint and it was still OK, but I found that the point where the ground wire was connected was a bit loose. Sure enough, I could cause the green light to go on and off by jiggling that wire. I heated the joint and let a bit of solder flow in and everything tightened up and works OK now. I took it for a 15-minute test ride with no problems.

I still may buy another keyed switch "just in case".

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions, everyone!

[Brundle-rat]

I have an older Ezee Torq (lightweight 250w model) that required battery replacements as well. Curious if other ES members have compared the various older Ezee geared hubs to the newer ones.

Can't decide if Justin's 400w kit is worth it for upgrading. There are lots of steep hills in Bay Area. Brundle-Rat, YPedal or others: have you compared Ezee motors of different watt ratings

I didn't see that there was another page of posts before I added my last post. No, Kevo, this is my first ebike, and I thought I would get the stock bike working before considering an upgrade.

[dnmun]

bypass the switches, use the andersons for the connection from battery to controller, or CA shunt, whichever you have.

[dogman]

Yeah, more connections, more failure points possible. I was thinking the next thing to look at would be a cold solder joint on the controllers input where it solders to the board. Some kind of bad contact in the system. KISS is best design. If the switch ever fails again, bypass it.

Glad you didn't have a weak cell shutting it down, as I originaly suspected.