lipo battery pack wiring with pics

wesnewell

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Wylie, TX, USA
Since there seems to be lots of people that don't know how to wire a lipo battery pack or how to do a parallel charge of multiple packs, here's some pics of my 10ah 18s2p pack as a 66.6v nominal pack ready to hook to controller and then set up to parallel charge the 6 bricks together as a 30ah 6s6p 22.2v nominal pack.View attachment 8b4.JPGb7.JPGb12.JPG

schematics for lipo wiring
battwiring.jpg12s2p.jpeg24s3p.jpeg
 

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Nice pic wesnewell.

I think that there are too much risk of bad connection and lipo fire with this type of cabling. Especially if I have to do it everyday.

Got 2 hyperion 14s so no more thinking and no more problem
 
wesnewell said:
Since there seems to be lots of people that don't know how to wire a lipo battery pack or how to do a parallel charge of multiple packs, here's some pics of my 10ah 18s2p pack as a 66.6v nominal pack ready to hook to controller

I am new to the language used on lipo cell configuration into battery packs.

Your pack is 10ah 18s2p 66.6v. Does that mean you have 2 sets of 18 cells in series that you have connected in parallel? And you have 3 sets of this wired together in parallel to give you 30ah (10ahx3)?

Are you using 4.19v 5ah cells?????

Would this battery configuration be called a 10s4p or 4p10s or?? (ref:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39675 )
 
csm said:
Would this battery configuration be called a 10s4p or 4p10s or?? (ref:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39675 )


10s4p
 
I used to charge up my 12s3p (15Ah) pack up just like that. I used a HobbyKing balance board that I modified to use the batteries 4mm bullet connectors. I just recently gave up doing all the wiring and simply gutted 4 Lipo of all the wires and made into one large 12s2p battery paralleling the balance leads and main connectors. Now I got a duct tape battery with just +/- and the 2 6s balance leads. I find that being able to charge in series I can watch which cells are starting to get low quicker than the rest to spot a weak cell before it becomes a problem.
 
wesnewell said:

Do you mean series top to bottom is optional, like this?:

a2100478-172-12S2P.jpg


vs this:

bat.jpg
 
Either of those will work. The top drawing has the packs paralleled at 6s pack level. The bottom at 12s pack level. Now parallel the balance leads from A to C and from B to D on the bottom drawing and you have the same thing as my 12s2p pack drawing. All 12 cells paralleled at cell level.
 
Very useful info, thank you for sharing. I plan on building a 13s3p pack, what would be the cheapest way to charge it? I was thinking of using a 4 slot 18650 charger and swapping all the cells out manually, but that is probably not practical so I guess I need a BMS. I'm still fuzzy on how to charge it however, watching your youtube videos now @wesnewell
 
I see I likely posted in the wrong place since I'm using LI ion and not lipo, anyhow
im building a battery for my 6kw cyclone motor with the 80 amp controller. the cells im using are samsung i hope are authentic samsing 30 Q's(unsure as i bought from an unverified vendor) my configuration is 14s 4p as of right now. i plan on adding a bms so will have to deconstruct to add it. do i need a seperate bms for each 14s pack? can 2 share one? should i reconfigure to maybe a 14s4p broken down to 7s2p for each 14s pack as i am having a hard time finding a bms that is 14s with 58v and at least 60amps that is also around $40(my current buget left for this bike).

any suggestions on configuration and bms? please and thank you!!
 

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they look like old salvaged cells
you can see the old spot welds
theres no parallel connections as far as i can see

that solder job is atrocious , its not 60/40
is that speaker wire?
that nickel strip wont do 20amps
whoever built that should be blackballed and shamed

that configuration would need a bms per 14s2p pack but id tear it all apart and just make a 14s4p with 1 bms
but those cells are probably toast
 
I'm not happy with the solder as well, but after trying 3 separate spot welders and all three not working I decided to try and solder as quickly as possible to avoid transferring too much heat. I received the cells in new condition, the spot weld marks were from my attempts with the 3 failed spot welders. The parallel connections are hidden by the styrofoam(added to lessen any vibration as the quick solder job breaks free somewhat easily) and connected by, yes, speaker wire, chosen first as it was the thickest guage I had readily available, by now likely changing out for something of similar size with silicone insulation for the heat that has been reported to melt solder. I'm not sure if the thickness of the nickel strip but was skeptical as it seemed very thin. I folded it in half twice lengthwise hoping that would help. The 14s2p is paralled to a 14s 1p where the red and black wires connect, if I did it correctly. How would I connect a 14s 1p bms and where would I find one that can handle both the volts and amps. This would be preferable so they can all be charged at once instead of separately leaving me able to close off the bike and simply add a charging port, which is what the long speaker wire was going to be used for. What is a 60/40 solder?
 

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goatman said:
that nickel strip wont do 20amps
It's a 1 1/2” piece approx. Folded in 1/2 twice. Should I add another or use something different all together?
goatman said:
that solder job is atrocious , its not 60/40
What is a 60/40 solder job?
goatman said:
theres no parallel connections as far as i can see
Drawing of parallel connections added. Can I leave the battery assembled with it connected to the charger and controller and use/charge is as is?
 

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youre paralleled at the ends and then youre paralleling the 2 packs together

should work but the construction of that pack just isnt safe, dont keep it or store it or charge it inside

theres big globs of solder that could easily short out the pack and cause a fire if you dropped it or someone kicked it by accident

i made some pretty ugly packs when i first tried

for example, trying to solder a pack with a 20 watt soldering iron cant produce enough heat and you wind up with huge mounds of solder because all that nickel is sucking up more heat than 20 watts can supply

a 60 watt iron with a chisel tip can get the job done in 3 seconds without overheating the cell.
your cells were exposed to high temps for way too long

if you had a 60 watt iron you could quickly unsolder the pack and redo it with some 14 gauge stranded copper wire and clean it up

atleast theyre samsung cells
 
I used a propane soldering iron and flux and tried to be quick. There were about 5 cells where I sat with the solder and iron for about 10 seconds to get it to stick. I was hoping to close this off within the bike and charge it through a port so it doesn't have to be touched.
I'm going to attempt to fix my spot welder to make it better, and ditch the styrofoam that will likely soon melt. Is there something I should use besides the nickel strips or is the way I attached them unsafe/insufficient?
 
Not sure if they really are Samsung cells. According to a discription from the contacted manufacturer it is missing information in the wrap and on the cell itself.
-SAMSUNG SDI Confidential Proprietary –
Spec. No. INR18650-30Q
Version No. 0.0 Wanmook, Lim - 15/16 - Additional remarks ■
Cell package : The bare cell is packed by which packaging material, PET tube. ■
Model and tube marking : there are three lines on the cell tube as follows.
Line 1 : INR18650-30Q --- cell model name Line 2 : SAMSUNG SDI --- cell manufacturer
Line 3 : 2E11 --- date code (Capacity ; “2” is over 2.0Ah, Year, Month, Week) ■
Lot marking : There are three lines on the cell metal can as follows.
Line 1 : J0E1 --- 1st digit: Line number ( “1” for cylindrical line No.1, “J” for cylindrical line No. 8) 2nd digit: Final number of Model Name (“0” is INR18650-30x)
3rd digit: Year ( “E” is 2014)
4th digit: Month ( “1” is January ; A is Oct., B is Nov., C is Dec)
Line 2 : 61111 --- 1st digit: Negative coater number ( “6” is No. 6 coater)
2nd ~ 4th digit: Batch number
5th digit: Serial No. of assembling
Line 3 : H1E8 ---
1st digit: Date (“H” is 17th day ; 10 is A, 11 is B…) 2nd digit: Serial No. of winding in a batch
3rd digit: Reel No ( “E” is E reel ; A is A reel, B is B reel, ... F is F reel)
4th digit: Winding Machine No. ( “8” is No.8 winder)
 
did you use plumbing solder or 60/40 solder? 60/40 solder melts quicker to get the job over and done with

i did a bunk 30q thread

my 30q-136 have a stamp on the negative end under the wrapper, check here
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=108525&p=1653261&hilit=bunk+30q#p1653261

bms, im going to be getting active cell balancers instead, the cheap blinky blinky ones on amazon should work
 
goatman said:
did you use plumbing solder or 60/40 solder? 60/40 solder melts quicker to get the job over and done with

It's much wetter and more fluid, too. 63/37 is nice because it doesn't really have a slushy phase, but it isn't quite as wet as 60/40.

Lead free solder has no place in the things we do, unless it's a low melting alloy that omits lead for melting point reasons. The other day I used a bismuth-indium alloy that melts at 165F (74C).
 
Definitely this is in the wrong thread to post in.
By introducing Li and it's associated minutiae, you dilute the original poster"s subject matter.
It's not that difficult to start your own thread.
 
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