mwkeefer wrote:Seems fairly odd that these will produce so much more current than rated for, at close to 600w you would think the engineers putting them out would have limited max current to a safer (ie: closer to rated) level.
Tiberius wrote:One thing you might like to try
Photograph both sides of the board, then in photoshop, flip one picture over, make it semi transparent and graft the two pics together.
You will have to deal with the distortion to get them to line up properly. But if it works its a lot easier to work out the circuit.
mwkeefer wrote:With regards to R33 being stable... well it hasn't blown up but begins to make an awful racket then durring my last charge
Hyena - fixing is not soldering a bad trace (BLOWN) and putting a new fuse in.... fixing involves a DVM with continuity, voltage and impedance testing at a minimum = )_
I want to increase the voltage of my MeanWell 36V PSU to max. 50V or so, and reduce the current from 9,7A to 5A. I have found ZD2 and ZD3, but cannot find ZD1?
- Ok I have found it! -
R25 looks like 2k7, R33 is 470 ohm.
Hyena wrote:Awe, the fried guinea pig award, now I HAVE to investigate further
OK as requested here's the pics.
Firstly, here's where mine let the magic smoke out!
mwkeefer wrote:Yes R25 should open the range on the top end... when you say you added the zener of 19v... you wired them properly (direction) and in series right? check your caps voltage rating too.
Thanks for the report back.. What was your current maximum before removing a shunt?
Connecting 2 of them in series is okay... what target output voltage / current do you want... you may be able to do it with your existing units.
Also, are your units identical to the ones you post the link image to? If not, you know the drill - open it up, remove the PCB and scan the trace side + photo the component side... plus, what version is it (should be stamped on the board or have a date at minimum).
Oh - one last note... the Diode and Transistors which use the case as a heatsink require that thermal coupling paste to work correctly (and the shims so they don't short out)... a cheap and available alternative which Radio shack should have is ceramic polysynthetic thermal compound, commonly known as "Arctic Silver". Be sure to re-apply some if you damage it. I use this same stuff on the Infineon controllers and have never had an issue with it.
Hope this helps!
Vanquizor wrote:Maybe I missed it, but what was the final verdict for this failure? Bad bits or related to Hyena's mods?
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