Total Noob - help too optimistic?

OCMike

100 W
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May 12, 2013
Messages
145
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
I may be overly ambitious here - so these may be dumb questions.

I'm building my first conversion and I'm going rc LiPo.

Build thread = http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=50508

I just received my Thunder 1220 Charger ... don't even have batteries yet. The batteries I wanted from HK, 5000mAh 22.2v 6S1P batteries are out of stock. So I'm looking at these instead

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20647__ZIPPY_Flightmax_8000mAh_6S1P_30C_USA_Warehouse_.html

They're 8000mAh 22.2 6S1P's ... the goal is to put 4 of them together and arrive at a 12S4P battery - 44.4v 16ah. But I'm really not sure if I have my S's and P's correct. My options are to:

1) take two batteries together in parallel twice and then put those together in series, or

2) take two batteries together in series twice and then put those together in parallel.

Which option is better?

I think putting them in parallel first will provide me with lower voltage halves - probably safer. But I don't know??

The charger I bought is capable of charging a 12 cell LiPo battery. Can I put it all together and charge the whole 44.4v 16ah battery at once? Or do I have to charge halves? Does it depend on how I configure them together.

Or am I not making sense and have a lot to learn? Actually, I know I have a lot to learn but I hope I'm making some sense.

These batteries are $96 each from HK. I originally wanted to get 6 22.2v 5000mAh batteries and put them together to get one 44.4v 15ah battery - those batteries were $51 each. But those batteries are out of stock. Originally the cost was $306 for the batteries - these alternative batteries will cost $384.

What do you guy think? Workable idea? Good idea?

Here's a picture of the charger that came in the mail today.

Thanks!
 

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Not to nitpick but with 4 of the packs you listed it'd be 12S2P not 12S4P.

A general thread about whether to series first or parallel in case you care to read it is: parallel connection 1st or in series?

Parallel first then series is usually considered easier--less plugging and unplugging--for charging. Read and study pictures in dogman's Icecube57's Lipo battery harness review to see how you could do charging. You'd use a harness just like the one dogman reviews.

Series first then parallel uses less wires and connectors to make the harness. Also done when different size packs such as 5S, 5S, and 2S are combined to make 12S. Or done when wanting to have the capability to add or leave out an extra group.

Since your charger can do two 6S at the same time rather than just 6S the easier for charging of parallel first matters less. So you could just do series first. Split the pack connectors to connect 2 packs in series.
 
Let me see if I have a drawing for 12s2p.
12s2p.jpeg
I assume you will want to charge as a single pack, so parallel the balance cables as shown in drawing using two 2x 6s parallel balance cables.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27080__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_6S_250mm_2xJST_XH_.html
You can get them lots of places besides HK.
You need to watch this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP8-1pQ2nRg
 
here's a nice site for tracking battery stock. the 30c zippy 5ah are $54. HK actually reduces the price if you sign in.. or wait a few minutes on the page before adding to cart.

http://rcsearch.info/hobbyking/psea...36=13;1038&p37=4;355&p38=3;83#psearch-results

44.4v*8ah*2/(89*4)=$.50/wh
44.4v*5ah*3/(54*6)=$.49/wh

if my math is right, a wash. decide fewer connections or more expensive to replace a single pack. the 5.5 bullet connectors should make it easy to series the pack

don;t forget the charge adapters if needed http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36986__5_5MM_to_Banana_Plug_Charge_Lead_Adapter_USA_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=5.5

read all the other good links here about care and feeding of lipos.. carelessness can be expensive. never charge unattended or in a flammable area.
 
I would parallel first myself.

But if you would like to ride some times with half the battery weight for shorter rides, then make two separate 12s 8 ah packs.
 
Good choice of a charger. You can use all 4 packs without gymnastics or just use 12S 1P for short trips. You will only have 5 ah with this setup The parallel balance cables allow charging and balancing the 2 packsw as one. Or 4 packs as one with two balance sets. Your charger will do both.
otherDoc
edit: If you got 6 packs it is just as simple to get 12S 3P. Just add the 2 more packs as in Wes's diagram and parallel 3 balance harnasses for each side. EP Buddy has a good selection of balance cables.
 
wesnewell said:
Let me see if I have a drawing for 12s2p.

I assume you will want to charge as a single pack, so parallel the balance cables as shown in drawing using two 2x 6s parallel balance cables.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27080__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_6S_250mm_2xJST_XH_.html
You can get them lots of places besides HK.
You need to watch this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP8-1pQ2nRg

Thanks ... so let me see if I have this correct:

Assuming all 6 22.2v 8000mAh Zippy's are good, I'll make two battery bundles:

Bundle 1) 44.4v 16ah consisting of 4 of the purchased batteries. I'll parallel two pair of batteries together at the cell level using the JST connector for which you provided a link (then I'll do it again with the other two). And then I'll put those two pairs of batteries together in series using the series plug referenced below.

Bundle 2) 44.4v 8ah consisting of 2 of the purchased batteries. I'll put these two batteries together in series using the series plug referenced below.

Two accomplish this I'll need two of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27080__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_6S_250mm_2xJST_XH_.html

and two of these (one package as a package has 2 packs in it):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9740__TRX_plug_battery_harness_for_2_packs_in_series.html

I think I can see the parallel connectors will work and there's no need to change the actual connector to something else - I actually wouldn't want to because this is what the Thunder 1220 will connect to for balancing.

But I'm not sure if the connectors on the series plugs are correct - or if they're the recommended ones. Are there better choices. I see people talking about JST connectors, wires, Andersons, heat shrink and other stuff. What all do I need to get this accomplished.

Do I need these banana plug charge adapter?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__36986__5_5MM_to_Banana_Plug_Charge_Lead_Adapter_USA_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=5.5

Thanks! Sorry to be such a pain with so many questions and stuff ...
 
lol there are only 2 types of people on this board.. those that ask questions and those that like answering them.. oh, and trolls.

anyway, the connectors you use will depend on:
-what type the batteries come with
-how willing/adept you are at soldering ( or crimping $)
-specific use ( parallel charge/series discharge, charge in place, add/remove capacity
- charger limitations (some would have to reconfigure 12s3p to 6s6p to charge but i think you;ve solved that already)

bullets are great performance, a pain to solder (get a torch), flexible to reconfigure (which also means shorts if careless)

ive really only seen those trx you linked used on RC trucks

most common connectors are just fine under 40A so 4mm bullet (with sleeves), 5.5mm bullet, xt60,xt90,anderson etc.. you'll find as many opinions as there are connectors. the important thing is make sure you charger, monitor,batteries, power leads all have the same.

if you get the 8ah zippys...easiest to match what they have already on them
 
Your 6s lipo packs will come with a male and female main connectors. One red (+) and one black (-). To make a 12s1p 44.4v pack just take the red wire from one pack and plug it into the black wire of the second pack. That's it. Period, other than you might want to tape them together or do whatever you want with them. you don't need anything special. Total time less taping together = 10 seconds if you are really slow. You then connect the open black wire to the black power wire of the controller, and the open red wire to the red power lead of the controller.
To make a 12s2p pack, do the above twice, now tie the 2 open black ends together and the 2 open red ends together. This is usually done with a Y cable. You can either make them or buy them. Then parallel the the cells together via my drawing using 2 2x 6s parallel balance cables like I linked. Don't make it difficult. It's simple.
If you are going to use 5.5mm bullets then you'll want a charge cable with 5.5mm bullets.
 
oops, guess that's why i should never show work. i did it the other way first (both ~ $2.00) so i flipped the answers (but not the formula) to match this chart:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Al-9VZS5gw_udFQwTTlCdXBFRUo0VVloa3dreVlJeEE#gid=0

the chart has a lot of information..but it also seems to have a lot of errors

also, not sure if you are familiar with hobby king buddy prices.. but once in a while you can find codes that might save you a few bucks (limit 2-3 packs tho)
http://rcsearch.info/hobbyking/i21373/#catalog
 
wesnewell said:
Your 6s lipo packs will come with a male and female main connectors. One red (+) and one black (-). To make a 12s1p 44.4v pack just take the red wire from one pack and plug it into the black wire of the second pack. That's it. Period, other than you might want to tape them together or do whatever you want with them. you don't need anything special. Total time less taping together = 10 seconds if you are really slow. You then connect the open black wire to the black power wire of the controller, and the open red wire to the red power lead of the controller.
To make a 12s2p pack, do the above twice, now tie the 2 open black ends together and the 2 open red ends together. This is usually done with a Y cable. You can either make them or buy them. Then parallel the the cells together via my drawing using 2 2x 6s parallel balance cables like I linked. Don't make it difficult. It's simple.
If you are going to use 5.5mm bullets then you'll want a charge cable with 5.5mm bullets.

I want to understand your diagram better!

12s2p.jpeg

It looks like they are both parallel and series at the same time.

If you eliminated the green from your diagram the batteries would be in series first and then in parallel. Is this correct?

Adding the green (parallel via the balance plugs) it looks like the left top 6S battery is both in parallel with the left bottom battery via the balancing plus and is also in series with the right top battery at the same time. Is this the case? It's kind of confusing - I can see why people end up with Kentucky Fried Finger!
 
You connect two 6S packs in series. On each pack, split the connector using a utility knife to separate the red and black wires. Then connect one pack to the other, red wire on one pack to black wire on the other pack. You then have a 12S group.

Then you can make another 12S group as above.

Then you parallel the two 12S groups you just made using Y-connectors like the ones pictured below that will supply power to the controller. Or you can run with just one 12S group plugged in. These Y-connectors correspond in function to the leftmost and rightmost wires on wesnewell's diagram. Top picture accepts negative plug of a 12S group. Bottom picture accepts positive plug of a 12S group.

Y-connector1.jpg
Y-connector2.jpg
 
OCMike said:
I want to understand your diagram better!
It looks like they are both parallel and series at the same time.
Yes, there are 2 groups of 12 cells in series, and they are paralleled at the ends.
If you eliminated the green from your diagram the batteries would be in series first and then in parallel. Is this correct?
That's one way of putting it. I'd say 2 12s packs paralleled.
Adding the green (parallel via the balance plugs) it looks like the left top 6S battery is both in parallel with the left bottom battery via the balancing plus and is also in series with the right top battery at the same time. Is this the case? It's kind of confusing - I can see why people end up with Kentucky Fried Finger!
Yes, that's the case, and when you parallel the top and bottom right 6s batteries together, it's the same thing.
You are going to have them paralleled at the ends anyway. Paralleling the balance plugs just parallels the 2 12s packs at cell level. And it allows you to balance charge both 12s groups at the same time.
 
wesnewell said:
OCMike said:
I want to understand your diagram better!
It looks like they are both parallel and series at the same time.
Yes, there are 2 groups of 12 cells in series, and they are paralleled at the ends.
If you eliminated the green from your diagram the batteries would be in series first and then in parallel. Is this correct?
That's one way of putting it. I'd say 2 12s packs paralleled.
Adding the green (parallel via the balance plugs) it looks like the left top 6S battery is both in parallel with the left bottom battery via the balancing plus and is also in series with the right top battery at the same time. Is this the case? It's kind of confusing - I can see why people end up with Kentucky Fried Finger!
Yes, that's the case, and when you parallel the top and bottom right 6s batteries together, it's the same thing.
You are going to have them paralleled at the ends anyway. Paralleling the balance plugs just parallels the 2 12s packs at cell level. And it allows you to balance charge both 12s groups at the same time.

More questions - sorry I can't think of them all at once and put them into one post :(

I also apologize for taking liberties with your diagram and butchering it.

So these diagrams would work exactly the same?

12s2p2.jpg

This works because the two on the left are in parallel via the green balance cables. The same goes for the two on the right. Is this correct?

They are in parallel at the cell level (the two on the left and the two on the right). The left two combine in parallel via the balance cables to make a 6S1P. Is this correct?

12s2p3.jpg

This works too? This is, in a way, parallel'd twice - once with the balance cables and once with the main output wires.

These two diagrams are truly parallel first and then series?

Your original diagram is parallel/series at the same time?
 
To get a "TRUE" parallel pack, one must first place all cells in parallel. The Hobby King Lipo (LiCo) packs
that most people here purchase like the 6s, are already in series. If you parallel 2 6s packs using output
wires only, then the pack is not truly in parallel until you parallel at the cell level. Using the balance leads to parallel with the main discharge leads will parallel the packs at the discharge leads and cell level.

The only concern I have is the fact that at Cell Level, Cells are paralleled using tiny wires designed to
provide a tap to monitor voltage and used for balancing at very low amps. On a high amp draw, and
as long as the packs are balanced (which they should self balance at the parallel balance taps) there
maybe no cause for alarm. But I'm not an expert, but usually all electric vehicle pack should be
paralleled at the cell level first, with properly sized wire/connections.

The picture below shows a typical parallel charge set up with 3 x 3s packs. Note how
the discharge leads are paralleled as are they balance taps. When you use the pack
to discharge into a controller, you will use the discharge leads only (big wires) but keep the
balance leads harnessed together. BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT
ANY WIRING/CHARGING/DISCHARGING or wiring PACKS TOGETHER IN SERIES OR PARALLEL.


All of my METAL tools are covered in ELECTRICAL TAPE to minimize any chance of a SHORT occurring!

Tommy L sends.....
mosh.gif


3x3s%20parchg.png
 
His Thunder charger can do 12S. So he could charge 12S (3P X2) without separating packs. He could series what you showed as it has 2 balance ports so he could parallel 3 batts x2. I guess it is better stated 12S 15 AH. By the way that is a super picture!
otherDoc
 
Saturday ordered 6 8000mAh 22.2 v zippy's and 2 parallel balance leads. :D

Thanks for all the help gents!

My confidence is better but I'm still a bit overwhelmed and want to understand so as to give myself a chance of getting it right. I mean Kentucky Fried Fingers happens to experienced amateurs and professionals, right ... what makes me think it won't happen to me? Knowledge is power ... and safety preserves life and property, right?

So - more noob questions:

When I get these batteries how do I check them to make sure they're in good condition. I have a Thunder 1220 Charger and I know it can see into the battery at the cell level. I just don't know what I'm looking for. I think the internal resistance of each cell should be really low - something like 1.5 microOhms. But I don't know what else ... puffed cell (what's that)? Do I charge to capacity and then discharge to see how much it can hold. I think max is 4.25v per cell. And you should never let a cell get below 3.5v.

Also, how do you take care of batteries? What if you're going to leave them in storage for a while (1 week, 1 month, 1 year)?

I pretty much think with wesnewell's help/suggestions/guidance thus far I've got the right set up: a controller that came with the yescomusa 1000watt 48v kit and 12S LiPo's. The controller has a 42 LVC (3.5v / cell) so as long as the cells are in balance while discharging I should be in good shape there. And I think the Thunder 1220 charger knows not to overcharge the batteries on charge up.

But what else do I need to know? Some of you guys have ingenious ways to discharge your batteries - hooking up incandescent light bulb sockets (series or parallel?) to a wood board and stuff. Why do you do that (that being discharge your batteries)?

Thanks!

Questions still to come in different post(s): How to hook up the batteries to themselves and how to hook them up to the controller. I'm actually pretty confident I can get the configuration of hooking them up to make 12S battery packs correct (I'm shooting for one 16ah pack and one 8ah pack - if all batteries come in good working condition). But what connectors should I get to do the connecting in terms of NOT the parallel balance leads? And how should I connect to the controller? I think I need a different fuse (because you guys say the stock fuse thingy is junk). How much of what came with the kit will I actually use? The kit comes set up (sort of set up) for charging lead acid batteries and I understand how that stuff goes together. But I think I won't be using the majority of that stuff. It also looks like it's set up so that a black wire connects to a red wire at the power connection to the controller - that seems wrong to me - but like I said, I'll have another post(s) for these questions.
 
OCMike said:
Questions still to come in different post(s): How to hook up the batteries to themselves and how to hook them up to the controller...
Maybe this can save you some work. Below is a picture (belonging to tdiggs) of a couple yescom kit parts with connections A-E (ignore F & G). Hope yours looks the same. The paralleling Y-connectors on the Lipo battery side that accept 12S groups that you have yet to make will connect to C & D. A goes to the controller. B connects to E.

Also below connecting batteries together.

tdiggs-yescomusa.jpg
12s1p.jpg
 
mark5 said:
OCMike said:
Questions still to come in different post(s): How to hook up the batteries to themselves and how to hook them up to the controller...
Maybe this can save you some work. Below is a picture (belonging to tdiggs) of a couple yescom kit parts with connections A-E (ignore F & G). Hope yours looks the same. The paralleling Y-connectors on the Lipo battery side that accept 12S groups that you have yet to make will connect to C & D. A goes to the controller. B connects to E.

Also below connecting batteries together.

View attachment 1

Thank You. I guess you can still use the computer pc type power connectors. Makes sense - it's kind of cool - I can tell friends "yeah, I just have a mini computer in the bag, that's what powers it". But I'm going to have two battery packs and I'm sure I'll have more in the future. I think another solution is warranted. :)
 
Those PC-type power connectors are just a yescom thing that I assume you also have. You could just replace A-E and the controller-side power plug with a pair of 12- or 10-gauge wires, some bullet connectors or Anderson plugs, a fuse, and precharge resistor.

OCMike said:
... But I'm going to have two battery packs and I'm sure I'll have more in the future. I think another solution is warranted.
Then you'd have as many plugs on the ends of C & D--what I call Y-connectors--as needed to accept additional battery packs. Or maybe I am misunderstanding.
 
mark5 said:
Those PC-type power connectors are just a yescom thing that I assume you also have. You could just replace A-E and the controller-side power plug with a pair of 12- or 10-gauge wires, some bullet connectors or Anderson plugs, a fuse, and precharge resistor.

OCMike said:
... But I'm going to have two battery packs and I'm sure I'll have more in the future. I think another solution is warranted.
Then you'd have as many plugs on the ends of C & D--what I call Y-connectors--as needed to accept additional battery packs. Or maybe I am misunderstanding.

No, I think I misunderstood. Thanks ... now I understand ... makes sense. But I'm not sure I like the pc type power connectors ... seems kind of lame.

Btw - I ordered the following items today:

1) 12v Dc 30a 360w Regulated Switching Power Supply Silver
2) 8" Plastic Cable Zip Ties 100-Pack (Black)
3) Slime Bicycle Tire Liners Twin Pack (26-Inch)
4) Cables to Go 43036 Cable Ties 4-inch - 100 Pack (Black)
5) Bluecell 2 PCS Black Large Size Lipo Battery Guard Sleeve/Bag for Charge & Storage
6) Zefal Bicycle Rim Tape (17mm)

I think I still need connectors (andersons or whatever), soldering iron, solder, and 12 gauge wire (red, black, and white).

6 8000mAh 22.2v zippy batteries
2 parallel balance connectors
1 Volt meter
nord lock vibrations proof washers
c washer/spacers
torque arm

are already on the way and I have a Thunder 1220 charger :)

Yee-haw, I think I'm set. :)
 
Please remember you only "Parallel" the JST-XH Connectors (balance leads) with another pack when the main discharge leads are in parallel, Red to Red & Black to Black.
DO NOT parallel JST-HX Connectors (balance leads) with packs that are in series, Red to Black. If you would like to join them, they must be joined to
reflect the size of series pack. (Two 6s packs in series is now a 12s pack)

But you can make your paralleled balance leads from 6s to 12s:
(In your case) One 6s will have 7 balance wires. Two 6s in series would have 13 balance wires.

Just remember: Paralleled packs will have Paralleled Balance and Discharge leads. Series packs will (daisy chain red to black mains discharge) and
extend the JST-XH connector from 6s (7pin) to 12s (13pin).

Top picture is an example of 2s (3pin) JST-XH balance taps.

The bottom pic is for bulk charging. I believe with the thunder charger you can use the below bottom pic and plug (in your case) the paralleled 6s
connectors in to each side of the Thunder charger (the Thunder charger appears to have Isolated the two 6s JST-XH connectors while you charge
at 12s thru your mains discharge leads) Watch the Thunder 1220 Video! :wink:

To SIMPLIFY the above......
Packs in Parallel have Red to Red and Black to Black mains discharge. You can Parallel Balance JST-XH connectors (example: two 6s "Y" together to form 6s)
Packs in Series have Red to Black (daisy chain) with Mains Discharge leads Red from one pack and Black from the other. You can continue to Series the
JST-XH connectors from 6s(7pin) to 12s(13pin).

Tommy L Sends.....
mosh.gif

Disclaimer: I take zero, none, nota, no responsibility for other people actions with regards to this or any of my other posts here on Endless-Sphere.
Do your own due diligence to ensure all is correct.


Other DOC, These are not my pictures. Credit must go to the ones that created them. I'm using them for educational/fair use :wink:

seriesharness.gif

file.php

[youtube]cP8-1pQ2nRg[/youtube]
 
Thanks Tommy L! Your input is greatly appreciated. I know it's helping me. I strongly suspect it's helping others too.

I do want to make sure I understand.

Regarding this diagram:

View attachment 4

I said this would work - I neglected to say additional thoughts I had because I think posts can get confusing and I didn't want to confound misconceptions I might have. But I'll elaborate here: This will work as a 12 cell 44.4v 16ah battery pack when each single battery is 6 cell 22.2v 8ah. The concern is an electron traffic jam. Since the paralleling is done with the balance tabs only this could create an excessive push (electromagnetic field) from one of the paralleled batteries to the other. This push would be through the parallel connecting balance leads and may result in excessive heating of the balance leads (paralleling batteries is not the purpose of balance leads - so the wires are light).

As for balancing at the cell level; this, in theory, essentially doubles the size of each cell. I don't know if the order in which you parallel individual cells makes a difference, I suspect not, but I'm sure cells are paralleled in the same order as they are in series in each of the individual batteries. Balancing at the cell level causes pairs of cells to "auto-balance" between each other (the electrons just flow through the parallel balance wires until the cells are in equilibrium). Cells are also balanced in series but this is where things can get "out of whack". I think the "out of whack" is caused by internal resistance differences between cells in series. Charging in a balanced manner alleviates "out of whack"ness and helps promote battery health.

These next two diagrams are essentially the same.

12s2p3.jpg12s2p.jpeg

They allow for more pathways for electrons to take as they move to and from the external battery connectors. The first one has the most number of pathways because they are linked in the middle as well as on the end. But I think that makes little to no difference. An electromagnetic field is established and all electrons take the path of least resistance to get to where they are attracted to. The more pathways you have the less pressure (electromagnetic force) each pathway has on it.

I hope that's all correct ... it's the current state of the evolution of my understanding.

But there's still LOTS I don't get :(

As for this diagram:

seriesharness.gif

I'm guessing each individual battery is two cell? Could you have cut the red balancing wire on the left and kept the red balancing wire on the right intact? Or do you need the red balancing wire to be with the battery that has it's main red wire as it's output connector and not used to hook up in series with another battery?

You're ending up with one 4 cell battery here. The balance connectors are not putting the batteries in parallel! That would be a NO NO as these batteries are in series. You're just setting up one balance plug to balance the cells as if the battery pack is a single battery (essentially it is a single 4 cell battery now)?

And lastly this diagram:

29pdba8.jpg

Fuse: Does 42v or better mean 42v or more OR 42v or less? Why doesn't amperage matter? I don't get it at all :( What's the purpose of the fuse? I know it's a safeguard but what is it sageguarding against?

It looks like the fuse is out of the circuit. Are you not using the same connectors for both charging and discharging? Is ESC where the leads go to the controller? And charging is done without a fuse in the circuit?

In this diagram the two batteries on the left are in parallel together both with the output leads and with the balance wires - they are in parallel at the cell level with the balance wires. The same goes for the two batteries on the right.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

In my case I don't need to worry about your first diagram (the one I address first) because my 12s 44.4v 8ah pack will consist of two batteries in series. I can't connect them in parallel at the cell level because that would complete the circuit (when already connected in series) and my balance leads would probably vaporize in a second - and I'd be scared sh*tless! I think that's your main warning in your post. Since I have a Thunder 1220 charger I don't need to combine balance leads. The charger is capable of charging a 12 cell battery - I'll just hook up each balance lead to a balancing tab that comes with the charger. I don't think the order in which I hook up the balancing wires to the balancing tabs makes no difference.

For my 12s 44.4v 16ah pack. I'll have two pairs of parallel balancing connectors. Each one will connect two batteries in parallel at the cell level. These batteries, in parallel at the cell level, will not be put in series together. They will be put in series with another pair of batteries (a mirror image pair of batteries paralleled at the cell level). I'll put it altogether in a fashion that coincides with the third diagram I have in this post. I'll charge it like any other 12 cell battery with my charger. The parallel balancing connectors I used will each have a connector not in use. I will use that connector to connect to the balancing tabs of my charger. The order in which I connect the balancing wires to the balancing tabs makes no difference?

Thanks again! I hope I'm getting this right -- if I'm wrong I'm screwed because it all makes sense to me (except for the parts that don't make sense :) ).
 
12s2p @ 16ah correct? You are using 4 6s packs, 2 paralleled and then 2 in series?

If so, then any Mains Discharge leads that are paralleled, you can then parallel the balance taps
As per your picture, top to bottom
Don't worry about taking the two leftover 6s balance taps and making one 12s from it as your
Thunder 1220 doesn't require it.

If you are not sure of what you are really doing, then don't. Have a qualified person
make your pack, or purchase one already made for you.

Here is a Hobby 12s with 2 7pin balance taps. Perfect for your Thunder 1220 charger.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor...ech_A_SPEC_5000mah_12S_65_130C_Lipo_Pack.html

Tommy L sends....
heavy-metal-hand-gesture-smiley-emoticon.gif
 
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