Can a ping 48v15ah do two motors? And fullriver packs?

azneinstein

100 mW
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
42
So I ended up with a Ping 48V 15ah battery pack.

I currently have one of those ebay 1000w front kits.
*Currently works great except the BB5s are too tall for the motor casing.

I have coming a ebikekit.com 350W rear geared motor kits.

I've done a ton of reading on 2wd, batteries, etc... so I'm guessing the limitation I have will be the amp draw availability on the Ping? I'm already considering trying to find 2-22.2v Turnigy lipos or adding one of the newer cube Luna 48v to the system, but just wondering if there's any dangers of trying both on just one for now.

Secondly, why haven't anybody explored these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-of-10-NEW-Fullriver-LiFePO4-3-2V-23-1Ah-Rechargeable-Batteries-26650-/192060677905?hash=item2cb7b55f11:g:v5EAAOSw2xRYWvqK

I thought of ordering 2 cases, and doing a 16S pack with these and with the tabs outside, I can either just do a 8awg copper wire solder or just crimp spade the packs together for a 51.2V 23ah pack for under $200?

And finally, I found this company randomly having sales on their battery packs with free shipping, I have no clue how good they are, etc... but what I really like is their pack for one of their electric bikes, the Flash replacement batteries- 48V for $313 shipped right now. What's nice is that it's in two packs which looks like it'd be easy to rig it to the rear bottom chainstays for nice/low balance batteries.
(My ping is currently in my backpack, my steel 29er has zero rack mounts and I was deadset on not racking it... )

http://www.egobikeusa.com/product-category/ebike-accessories/
 
azneinstein said:
I've done a ton of reading on 2wd, batteries, etc... so I'm guessing the limitation I have will be the amp draw availability on the Ping? I'm already considering trying to find 2-22.2v Turnigy lipos or adding one of the newer cube Luna 48v to the system, but just wondering if there's any dangers of trying both on just one for now.
What's the current limit of the Ping's BMS? Hit that and it shutsdown and you have no power at all, until it resets (or you reset it, if it doesn't on it's own). Keep doing it and heat up the output FETs too much and either melt them off the PCB or blow them up....

Other issue is voltage sag--the harder you push it, the more it sags, and it might shutdown from cell-level LVC even when there's actually capacity left, cutting your range down quite a lot.

If you're not abusing it at/past it's limits then it just means the harder pushing on it will shorten it's lifespan (and range) by some amount.

All depends on how much current you pull from it and it's condition and specs.


Secondly, why haven't anybody explored these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-of-10-NEW-Fullriver-LiFePO4-3-2V-23-1Ah-Rechargeable-Batteries-26650-/192060677905?hash=item2cb7b55f11:g:v5EAAOSw2xRYWvqK
Link itself won't completely display for me (always have trouble with ebay pages), so can't see all the details, but:

There's not much chance of them being "real". 23Ah in a 26650? I don't think anything exists like that. Look up "ultrafire" on ES; same kind of fraud. There's also a recent thread about that brand if you poke around ES for it.
 
I just bought some of the fullriver 26650's from the same seller. They all showed ~3.2v but I am only seeing 1ah of capacity. They have a 2012 manufacture date stamped on the box. I am going to run through a number of charge/discharge cycles but I am assuming they are junk.
 
I can confirm the fullriver 26650's are junk. I also got some they are mostly in the 1Ah to 2Ah range and resistance in the 30-50 mili ohm @ 1Khz AC range. No noticeable capacity improvement after 20 cycles, but resistance did decrease slightly.
 
The ping will do it,, as in the bms may not pop and shut you down. But it will be like taking a hammer to it and beating it to death. it will sag hugely, get hot, get all unbalanced, and not last very long at all. You'll puff up pouches, and then it's done.

I would not run a 2000w system, on less than 30 ah of ping cells, or 30 ah of so so quality li-ion cells.

All my 2000w bikes run on RC lipo,, where 10-15 ah of it can easily serve up a 2000w burst.


As for the full river,, if 23 ah has a max amps discharge rate of 9 amps,,that's less than .5c rate. You'd need about 60 ah of those by the specs.
 
azneinstein said:
So I ended up with a Ping 48V 15ah battery pack.

I currently have one of those ebay 1000w front kits.
*Currently works great except the BB5s are too tall for the motor casing.

I have coming a ebikekit.com 350W rear geared motor kits.

I've done a ton of reading on 2wd, batteries, etc... so I'm guessing the limitation I have will be the amp draw availability on the Ping? I'm already considering trying to find 2-22.2v Turnigy lipos or adding one of the newer cube Luna 48v to the system, but just wondering if there's any dangers of trying both on just one for now.

Secondly, why haven't anybody explored these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-of-10-NEW-Fullriver-LiFePO4-3-2V-23-1Ah-Rechargeable-Batteries-26650-/192060677905?hash=item2cb7b55f11:g:v5EAAOSw2xRYWvqK

I thought of ordering 2 cases, and doing a 16S pack with these and with the tabs outside, I can either just do a 8awg copper wire solder or just crimp spade the packs together for a 51.2V 23ah pack for under $200?

And finally, I found this company randomly having sales on their battery packs with free shipping, I have no clue how good they are, etc... but what I really like is their pack for one of their electric bikes, the Flash replacement batteries- 48V for $313 shipped right now. What's nice is that it's in two packs which looks like it'd be easy to rig it to the rear bottom chainstays for nice/low balance batteries.
(My ping is currently in my backpack, my steel 29er has zero rack mounts and I was deadset on not racking it... )

http://www.egobikeusa.com/product-category/ebike-accessories/

The Pings are/can be 3C or 5C max in theory as i recall from their spec sheets. (depends on factory configuration and BMS)

I defer to others, but seems to me 1-1.5c steady, and 3c if you must on occasions (most ebiking seems bursty to me, long 40mph runs, maybe not), should be fine for real world longevity - 1-2000 cycles til 20% capacity loss of pak.

so, ~750w =1c, 1125w=1.5c, your proposed max power is 1350w=1.8c.

Moderating your riding a bit seems a far better option than replacing your excellent battery.

BTW, with a 3 speed display, you have a simple way of reducing current draw by its motor, if cutting out is a problem.
 
No comment on the lipo idea, other than it beats me why folk would take on the anachronistic time consuming hassle of balancing paks etc.

I would say tho, lose the backpack. You only get one back, and u will probably live to wish u had taken better care of it. Potholes at ebike speed with a 7.5kg~ battery in a bakpak are not what backs were designed for.

Good mounting is hard tho, esp. for lifepo4 pouch "brick" paks. 48v in pouch paks, also has the downside that more cells makes the narrowest dimension (i.e., that which best fits between your knees if inside the frames triangle) thicker/wider.

(a picky edit, afaik, ping use 5 amp pouch lfp cells in parallel for 10ah/15ah/... paks, so they have some flexibility about pak dimensions - smaller cells can be rearranged a bit)

A mounting spot i like is at the top of the rear fork arms, just behind the seat post. Its higher than ideal, but a lot lower and more central than a rear rack (which make no attempt to pursue these objectives). Its a strong base (there is a cross member between the fork arms) to rest the weight on, and could even be strengthened via a seatpost back rack (dirt cheap), adding a little lift and springing from above.

It sounds u have a more roomy conventional MTB frame than I, in which case, suspended from the crossbar as low as practical seems simplest if u knees dont bump it.
 
All true,, but running a 2000w peak system on just one small battery would be one reason to go lipo. My big motors that run on 2000w controllers is why I still have some around the house.

Blending lipo with a ping to stiffen it is tempting, but the differing voltages at various states of charge make that a pain. If you can parallel in some more lifepo4, even fairly shitty lifepo4, you can then run your two motors at once.

If you do a dual throttle thing,, I see no real reason the ping could not pull both motors cruising on the flat. It's not going to be 2000w then. But the better take off is what you are looking for,, climbing steeper hills with more weight, etc.

Adding just 10ah more lifepo4 will do er,, then just parallel the packs so they both discharge at the same rate. 25 ah will pull your two motors I think.
 
Where am I wrong guys?

If a LFP is rated for 2000 cycles (admittedly at .2c dis/charge I hear), which is so common and anecdotally verified, it cant be complete BS. i.e. a full daily charge for ~5 years, then does it really matter in real terms if we are a bit rough on them?

All the pouch CELLS (if not paks) i have seen claim a 3c constant discharge, so surely wandering into 1.5-2c territory at times will still yield more cycles than we can realistically use before upgrading?

hi qual ping paks should be fine, OR, is the failure more catastrophic than that - pouch swelling etc. (excessive discharge i hear, but how excessive?).

In this example,where it seems the OPs max total motor power is 1350 watts (or what the OP seeks and expects), then 1.8c on the odd power max out should be within the long term ability of the battery in question.

NB, in 36 & 24v lfp paks, voltage stated is conservative. 36v e.g. is 12x3.2v nominal, or more like a steady 3.3v on discharge charts, equals 39.6v. Further, pouches are usually about 10% bigger than stated- a 10ah pouch can be up to 11ah, or, in total, 435wh rather that 360wh if all cells pan out to 11ah, or 20% bigger than advertised. Details aside, lfp paks usually exceed their rated ability.
 
You are wrong that ping cells like 3c discharge. If you want to know how I know this,, I have done it. How does cut capacity in half for that discharge grab you? If you see your pack sags under load like grannies tits, it is telling you something. If the bms pops when you have only discharged 8 ah from a 15 ah pack,, they are taking quite a beating. The pack I did that to was never quite the same again. I put just about one year of wear on it in 45 min. In the end,, I got right about 200 cycles from that pack. Is that your goal,, if so , then fine.

Keep it up beating that pack, and yep,, you'll puff up cells.

But 1.5c that's fine,, 2c peak, you'll get 700 cycles that way. You are doing that now dude, with one motor. But you are talking one 25 or 30 amps controller, plus another that is 22. So 50 amps,, that's 3c plus. That is what I say don't do.

You are not testing one cell in a lab,, you are bouncing a bunch of them down the road. one cell gets unhappy, it can just about brick your pack.

I'm not saying you won't get away with it for a while. Hell, you might get away with it longer than I imagine possible. It's certainly true you can build a 2000w bike, but use that full 2000w so seldom it does not matter.

I'm just saying, hit that ping with 3c continuous very much,, I predict you kill it in a few months, or a year at best. This is not new territory for us, I bought one of the very first ping batteries, when it was like,, close your eyes, click pay, and hope something comes in the mail.

Still a really good battery for somebody who wants 1000w, but no,, not for 2000w.
 
Dogman, and everybody else- I just wanted to thank you.

My main concern, like many others is the limited budget factor and reliability over performance (at least for me). It seems like the debate is between 3 ideas- all 3 of which is that it will "work" but will it put strain or destroy (long term) anything. My reason for the 2wd wasn't for the performance but in case I had to be at work, being stranded, having less strain on one motor, etc.

My original idea was to use two 48v bottle batteries which would have allowed more mounting options but then a 48V 15ah Ping battery deal came up that I couldn't pass.

So for now I think I am going to hook both systems up to the system but try and only use one motor at a time to ease off the stress and add another 48v battery to the system so that I can have this battery last as long as possible. I'm a cyclist but I'm more about exploring, having fun and just making sure I make the hill so the top speed wasn't as important as reliability as long as I stay within the 25-35mph range.
 
On the Ping website the battery has a power rating. 48v 15ah may have a rating of 900 watts run 1 motor or 5 motors. Going over the rating it's on you. Run a 900watt ratef battery at 1800 watts ? Get a C.A. and you can adjust you amp draw of your controller. Like turn it down.
 
I see.. Well, this is ES,, one just has to assume you wanted to run both motors at once,, possibly to climb a 20% grade hill a mile long, or to tow a trailer loaded with 400 pounds of scrap metal, or such like.

Certainly no reason why you can't run one motor at a time. That little 350w motor can just idle till your DD dies with no problems. Cruising speed, at 20 mph or so,, if you actuate both motors they will share the wattage, but the watts needed to go 20 mph won't increase. Its if you pull hard on both motors at once that you will beat that ping. Like a start, uphill start, or extreme steep hill.

This is a situation that almost screams to learn about lipo next. A very small and cheap reserve pack could run the 350w motor on it's own battery. Or a lawnmower pack. Use it just for the starts, and get great performance then, but then just let the DD run on the ping while cruising. That kind of use would lessen the pull on your ping on the starts.

Or get a small lifepo4 pack to add to your ping. 25 ah of ping would run both motors at once.



FWIW, I have often thought of a dual motor DD and geared, for redundancy. As a balloon pilot, I love the redundancy concept. But in fact, I commuted for around 10,000 miles, have perhaps 20,000 now. What failed me? tires mostly, or other parts of the bike. After that wiring issues, like toasted plugs. Only when going out and beating the crap out of them do the motors fail.
 
fyi

ping site:

Specifications:

Suitable Wattage of Motor: up to 2160 Watt (with High Rate BMS), 500-1200 Watt (with Regular BMS)
Suitable Motor Controller: up to 50 Amps (High Rate BMS), up to 35 Amps (Regular BMS)
Applications: E-Bike, Electric Bike, E-Scooter, Electric Scooter
Voltage: 48 Volts (51.2 Volts Nominal)
Capacity: 15 Amp Hours
Dimension: 275*105*155 mm / 10.8*4.1*6 inches
Weight: 7.5 kg / 16.5 lbs
Charging Voltage: 60-61 Volts
Charging Current: <5 Amps (<10 Amps with High Rate BMS)
Rated Discharging Amperage: 15 Amps
Max Continuous Discharging Amperage: 30 Amps (60 Amps with High Rate BMS)
Maximum Discharging Current (Pulse): 60 Amps (1 second with Regular BMS), 100 Amps (1 second with High Rate BMS)
Discharging Cut-off Protection: 40-45 Amps with Regular BMS, 65-70 Amps with High Rate BMS
Lifecycle of the whole pack: >85% capacity after 1000 cycles. Lifecycle of single cell: >85% capacity after 1500 cycles, >70% capacity after 3000 cycles. (<1C discharge rate and <1C charge rate), Averagely 2000 Cycles
 
All good then OP. u r chasing some redundancy & a fun project & not fussed about power & money is an issue & u r committed to the motor anyhoo - so u have u solution & answer.

re the general discussion aspect, what ifs etc., ...

just saying, u get some redundancy, but what u get is 2 of the same~ here. they dont complement each other (as the term hybrid implies). at low rpm, both have torque/current/heat potential problems. The 2 speed xiongda hub motor would be an interesting option for cases like this -it has a very low first gear.

A very real app for this in EU rules countries is stealthy power boosting. A small supplemental rear hub motor on a legal 250w mid drive would be hard to spot. It would also reduce strain on the chain drive. If u could convince the cops it was an either or rig - only one motor could be toggled on at a time, it may even be legal.

In my city, i figure my best roadside stranding option is to ride a minimalist sub 30kg mid-drive MTB w/ qik release front wheel, that i can throw in back of a sedan cab. it sounds expensive, but it isnt - its never happened :)

beyond that bulletproofing, i would have a whole spare bike (maybe share a battery). I may hate it, but it gets me to work sweat free if my main bike is down. u cant afford a spare car, but not having a spare commuter bike is a false economy. for the grief it would save (unemployment?), its v cheap insurance.

On on that matter, it seems to this muddle headed noob, I would sure prefer lifepo4, as it seems far more tolerant of being forgotten for months on end, as is my wont.
 
Slight UPDATE: So I'm still without a charger for the 48V ping... a seller on CL had a Ping one but wanted $25 more than what Ping wanted... so instead- I picked up another Ping Battery, the 36V 30Ah one! That came with a charger!
(You guys should really watch auctions and stuff on ebay...)
The reasoning is 1: I've been sitting here holding the 48V battery and can't think of a single place in this small frame, if custom work/welding is needed, I rather just buy a new frame. The 36V is the one with two packs that I can fabricate one of those top tube bags for.

2: This is, based on the charger in the picture, the high rate BMS version which will put all of you guys to rest in terms battery safety as it's rated for 2000w.

3: I originally wanted to dual mount two bottle batteries but the cheapest 48V decent ones was $2-300 each... so two bottle batteries with about 20ah total would have been $500+ and way less charge cycles than phosphate. I just won this battery for $325, seller originally was selling it for $350 shipped... I normally wouldn't trust used batteries but the ping's ridiculous cycle counts and the fact this is a V5 means it should be fairly new.

Torque and a non-overheating motor/making it to work on time was top priority. I definitely had a budget but I'm one of those guys that don't mind waiting for good deals. Despite two kits and the two batteries, I'm still <$800 at this point minus the bike. But another auction I was watching in case anyone is interested is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282312010327?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

52V battery with an extra controller and a badass frame/case for about $300.

Finally Cycleop612- my thinking behind this, and tbh, it's all just theory as I'm a pretty seasoned cyclist and I do have a strong understanding of how things work/power/electronics but my thinking goes:

*Too much power in the rear and it's just going to wheelie, why not put the more powerful motor in front so that the tire stays on the ground. Most of the load is on the rear wheel so shouldn't I put the geared hub in back? With me slightly pedaling and front pulling, I feel like the loads way more distributed.

** If I had to choose again, I'd probably gone with my original idea of a 36v hub in front but the auction I won was for a 48V one but I didn't really care, but then again now that I'm looking back at it- 36v would have been easier in terms of power requirements/fitting batteries.

As far as Lipo's, before purchasing these guys I actually went to 3 hobby shops to check out pricing, etc... after all said and done, I really was just put off my the charging and the mess of wires I see in your setups. I was going to do the dual 22.2V for the geared hub separately, but now I'd have all this extra equipment, separately this... balancing, after this build I think I'm going to try for one of those 2k watt build with an extra 24" BMX I have sitting which I believe would then be lipo appropriate.
- Again, on a budget, the weight would have been nice but I'm hoping to have one of those builds that I don't have to fuss with, no shunt or crazy mods, just reliable and long term use so finding the pings on sale when shipping costs are rising another I leaned that direction.
 
Lipo a power supply a charger multiple connections connections connectors and disconnect for charging as who has a real 12s charger but 14s is what you need four lipo. Lifepo4 used at or below rated service does last. Plus many cycles.
 
So now you will have a 36v 30 ah ping, in the split pack configuration. it will be 8 inches wide, and about 8 long or so. Weight around 20 pounds I think. Not too bad. But mounted saddlebag style on the top tube, it will whack your knees pedaling, if you do plan on pedaling. About 6" wide on the top tube is pretty tolerable, but 8 makes you pedal a bit bowlegged. You can get used to that though. Just point your toes out on the pedals a bit.

I'd throw that battery in two low hanging rear saddlebags. So pedaling is normal. like this.

With 30 ah,, you can now easily run a 45 amps system,, two of the 22 to 25 amps controllers on two motors. Still only 1.5c burst, which many of us have proven a ping can easily stand. Not sure if your 48v motors controller will run on 36v, but you can easily get a 22 amps controller that works on 36-48v.
 
dogman dan,
so right now I'm considering 3 methods:
1: Yours, rear rack and saddle sags

2: Top tube mount, my original idea which you just said my knees will hit means that I was going to try and make mount that holds the batteries at the middle point so it's halfway higher on the top tube. I'm still considering buying a weeride baby toptube bracket that would easily allow me to mount anything to.

3: Just getting some panels welded on the chainstays but now I'm worried the repeated stress of 20-30lbs bouncing on welds on a rigid frame....

4: Turn it into an extracycle or mount a trailer but I really don't want the trailer drag.

5: I have a steel tandem sitting here collecting dust, I saw somebody's mixte/tandem conversion that looked great that I might consider but now i have this longass/heavy bike...
 
redilast said:
I can confirm the fullriver 26650's are junk. I also got some they are mostly in the 1Ah to 2Ah range and resistance in the 30-50 mili ohm @ 1Khz AC range. No noticeable capacity improvement after 20 cycles, but resistance did decrease slightly.
They may be inconsistent, but they're not all junk. At least not if I've done my testing correctly. I bought 2 boxes of these to build a battery pack (I might end up regretting that, after reading here), but the first one I tested really did have 23 AH capacity (this was for the 7P batteries mentioned earlier). It took a long time for me to test, since I currently only have an OPUS tester that charges at 1A and discharges at .7A (it's made for single cells, but I connected it to a 7P battery with hook-up wire and binder clips). Am I going to be hugely disappointed when I'm trying to discharge at a 20A rate?

I believe the quoted 9.9 A max discharge rate was copied from the ad for single 3300mAH cells (which would make it 3C, which sounds close to normal). Hopefully I can get at least 1C out of these. :)

Or is this just wishful thinking?
 
tanstaafl said:
... Hopefully I can get at least 1C out of these. :)
Or is this just wishful thinking?

There is a data sheet for "26650Fe3300" cells on FullRiver's web site which includes .5C charge and discharge curves.
Rated 1000 cycles. Charge .2C CC -> 3.6v -> .05C. Max discharge 1C.
(You are at their "max" drawing 23.1A from the 7P packs.)

I gambled and bought a few boxes myself as something to learn on for solar power buffer.

Hope you can get ahold of a higher current charger... (and I thought .2C (4.6 A) was painfully slow. ;))

Scott.
 
azneinstein said:
Dogman, and everybody else- I just wanted to thank you.

My main concern, like many others is the limited budget factor and reliability over performance (at least for me). It seems like the debate is between 3 ideas- all 3 of which is that it will "work" but will it put strain or destroy (long term) anything. My reason for the 2wd wasn't for the performance but in case I had to be at work, being stranded, having less strain on one motor, etc.

My original idea was to use two 48v bottle batteries which would have allowed more mounting options but then a 48V 15ah Ping battery deal came up that I couldn't pass.

So for now I think I am going to hook both systems up to the system but try and only use one motor at a time to ease off the stress and add another 48v battery to the system so that I can have this battery last as long as possible. I'm a cyclist but I'm more about exploring, having fun and just making sure I make the hill so the top speed wasn't as important as reliability as long as I stay within the 25-35mph range.

I have been running 2WD as long as anybody currently posting these days, so I thought I would add my 2 Cents.
IT seems to me that this build wasn't thought out very well.
In the first place, I would have put the big, heavy DD on the rear and the mini-motor up frt.
Next, by buying from Ebikekit instead of one of the Chinese vendors, $300 - $400 extra was spent that could have gone into batteries.
And lastly, by going w/ the Ping, you have used up a lot of battery .space, something at a preminum w/ a 2WD system.
Anyhow, it's done now.
If the main purpose for going 2WD is back-up reliabilty, using only one battery pack reduces the back-up coverage by, maybe 50%. As often as not, when a system goes down, it is the battery.
For maximum back-up, the way to go is two of everything, like my build.
At this point, I would power the DD w/ the ping and as Dman suggested, squeeze something like a Mini Cube from Luna somewhere on the bike to run the geared mini.
After all these years, I have come to believe the biggest advantage of 2WD, is being able to use a low/medium powered motor as the main w/out out having it so powerful that the throttle becomes too sensitive. And then being able to "feed-in" the second motor for that extra power when wanted.
That's how I use mine. Most of the time it's the rear 1200 Watt Ezee and I add the 800 Watt frt. Q100H on take off and climbing.
The rear runs off 20 Ah of Lipoly, while the frt. pack is only 5Ah. But the way I use the motors, both packs dis-charge at the same rate.
 
mototech

I like the elegant simplicity of your 2wd approach/philosophy.

Dont balance 2 batteries, balance the use of them by favoring one motor or the other during the trip to suit, with the bonus of pretty full redundancy.

I would like your rig as a mid drive also (maybe a 2 speed xiongda on front - bit heavy tho), with a focus on relieving stress on the chain transmission for torquey starts and hills (favouring the low gear of the XD).

I do like KISS tho. Get home, park bike, connect 1 charger to 1 big battery, relax. Anything too fiddly is a dis-incentive to using the bike over the car. simplicity is part ofthe bikes appeal.

I can see merit in 2 identical batteries tho. One precharged spare third battery can be swapped to either motor.

In EU rules regimes, stealth is an issue. 2 batts draws attention to non kosher 2 motors. My axial mid drive is invisible bar the battery, so w/ 1 battery for both motors, i doubt 2wd would be spotted.
 
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