Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

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Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby Ypedal » Thu Nov 29, 2007 7:38 am

( Ok.. bear with me as this will take a while to complete, typos, missing pictures,, etc.. can be expected until i'm done.. !! :D )

- Anderson PowerPoles
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/s ... ctors.html

- Deans
http://www.wsdeans.com/

- Tamya
Mostly used in RC stuff.. not suitable for Ebike usage.

- Trailer type
Common on Wilderness Energy kits, and lower quality, they do work, they tend to come apart too easily after alot of use and generally should be replaced with better quality connectors if and when possible.

One thing you will qickly learn as you work with your Ebike is that everything requries connectors, battereis, chargers, controllers etc..

Most kits are ready to go and you don't have to worry about it.. but what do you do if you need to replace one ? or more ? :shock:

No worries, it's not that hard. 8)

ES site status page, for when "things" happen...
http://www.ypedal.com/ES/ES.htm
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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby rkosiorek » Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:33 pm

for larger wires or higher current you could also use the Anderson SB50 series connectors.
these are used on power wheelchairs and some trolling motors.

sb50_xlrg.jpg
sb50_xlrg.jpg (92.22 KiB) Viewed 4984 times


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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby Reid Welch » Mon May 04, 2009 3:40 pm

Not all connections need to be unplugged. If you have seldom-disconnected connections,
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_wes ... ion_splice
The Western Union Splice (from the 1840s) remains the gold standard.
You will learn to solder if you don't already know how to solder.
Will show how and why:

The twisting of stranded wire, or the hard CRIMP of a connector to its wire makes the electrical connection.
But what about permanence against corrosion, even soaking in salt water or leaking electrolytes?
That's where solder comes in.

Billions of cars, etc, make do with the simple, "reliable" crimp connector. But woe unto them if they get soaked: total write off
or total rewiring, because the mass produced crimp connection is rarely soldered.

Solder seals out the elemental air and nasty stuff. Solder flux chemically cleans the non-conductive oxides from the wire.
It's a good deal all round, and strengthens the joint.

Now, let's talk about another kind of connector some of you know about but tend to eschew in favor of Andersons or Deans: plugs that rely
on simply wiping contact with some spring pressure.

BTW, molded fuse connectors and AC plugs and such are, unfortunately, never soldered internally: too much trouble.

I like solder. I like connectors that can be un-done in a trice. Let's look at the simplest, tightest connectors made. And cheapest too:

(tbc)


_____

Temporary addendum. Illustrating the quick and reliable "euro style" butt joint connector.
There are tips to be followed: twist and solder the wire ends. snug the grub screw (it's captured, cannot fall out and get lost).
next day, TIGHTEN the joint again, because the copper and solder crush down under the tremendous
clamping pressure of the grub screw.

Also: when disconnecting a joint, leave the connector on the "hot" wire, if any, and disconnect the cold wire;
no shorts possible this way.

Also: white nylon is not very pretty. You can make these connectors any colour you like:
soak them for a few days or a week in fabric dye: jet black, blood red, bright green, yellow, blue,
you name it.

Also: they come in various sizes for thin to very thick wire.

I've used them for twenty years or more.

Remember to tighten the grub screw on occasion. Eventually it will remain tight and perfectly vibration proof,
and you can take the joint apart in about five seconds using a simple screwdriver.

COMPRESSION greater than any snap connector, will carry large currents and never let you down.
Grease the wire ends for archival permanence against salt water, etc.

Sample video seen elsewhere, but showing the connectors, which you can use as a gang strip,
or cut apart with a sharp blade as I did here:


They cost so little and can be re-used forever.
connectors.jpg
available in the USA at Radio Shack in several sizes.
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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby Ypedal » Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:01 pm

Added video at the top. 8)
ES site status page, for when "things" happen...
http://www.ypedal.com/ES/ES.htm
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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby spinningmagnets » Wed May 30, 2012 7:02 pm

If you like this style of connector, but want to use a larger wire gauge with a higher amp-rating, (and youre also willing to pay more because it includes a very robust weather-resistance) the “Weather Pack" series of connectors is growing in popularity for generic auto/boat/off-road/farm-eqipment electrical systems.

There are 4 sizes of WP-connector, and also 4 sizes of pins, depending on the wire-gauge and continuous amp-rating thats needed. My local NAPA auto parts store carries the 280-series/30A (continuous) which can accept the 14/16-gauge pins, however, two larger sizes are also available, using up to 10-ga wire @ 46A (continuous). $11 per matched pair at NAPA retail price for the 280-series size, 2-pin connector shown.

Image

These connectors have a high level of moisture resistance due to the use of silicone boots and grommets. Napas retail price for a complete 2-pin 14-gauge wire connector set is about $11 (both male and female 2-pin connectors, plus 4 pins and 4 grommets).
http://www.whiteproducts.com/metri-pack.shtml
Image

They are also available with 1/2/3/4/5 or 6 pins, with the 4-pin available in flat-row, or a square configuration. 5-pin socket is round, 2/3/6-pin is flat-row only. All types have a strong latch, and are polarized to ensure they can only be plugged in one way.

http://www.repairconnector.com/products/WeatherPack-4-Way-Square-Female-Male-Connector-Assembly-Set.html
Image

http://www.whiteproducts.com/terminals-seals.shtml
There are four raw pin sizes, they will accept 10ga to 24ga wire, pigtails available ready-made with 14ga or 18ga wire. These pins use a common crimping plier instead of an expensive proprietary model. I recommend tinning the wire ends with solder before crimping, and re-heating after the crimp. Pins are steel that is plated with zinc.

Pin part numbers: WPM is Weather Pack Male, WPF is Weather Pack Female
WPM-12 or WPF-12 = 10/12 ga wire
_____________-15 = 14/16 ga
_____________-19 = 18/20 ga
_____________-23 = 22/24 ga

Weather Pack connector housings
Series-150 14A 16-24 ga
Series-280 30A 12-24 ga
Series-480 42A 10-14 ga
Series-630 46A 10-12 ga

The catalogue also contains a similar-construction fully-enclosed silicone-sealed Weather-Pack fuse-holder that accepts common auto-style blade fuses, up to 60A.

Image
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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby spinningmagnets » Wed May 30, 2012 7:09 pm

The Turnigy charger I have, came with a pigtail using XT60 connectors. Even without a latch, they have significant holding ability, and I may use those at some point for other applications. The Deans connectors are red, and the XT-60s are yellow. Deans seem to be popular, and that's fine for chargers inside the house, but on my bike, in unexpected wet weather, I like the increased weather resistance of the Weatherpacks, or the XT-60s.

Notice the banana plugs in the background. They are not polarised, and you can physically plug the red plug into the black socket if you are rushed and not paying attention, or in dim light.

Hobby King now has a larger version available called XT90.

The XT90 shank accepts Turnigy 10-Ga wire easily, and the Turnigy 6mm heat-shrink insulation fits over the 10-Ga (with thick silicone insulation) and can fully insert into the connectors butt-end recess. The XT90 uses 4.5mm diameter pins.

For the XT60 size, the Turnigy 12-Ga wire easily fits, and will accept 4mm and 3/16-inch (4.5mm) heat-shrink. The XT60 uses 3.5mm diameter pins.

I have recently found a chart that indicates 12-Ga wire can flow 40A DC current continuous, and 10-Ga can flow 55A continuous (obviously more amps if a temporary peak for both wire and connectors), both of which are below the rating of their respective connector (XT60A, XT90A), so the current limiting factor is the wire, not the connector.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9572__Nylon_XT60_Connectors_Male_Female_5_pairs_GENUINE.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24707__Nylon_XT90_Connectors_Male_Female_5_pairs_.html

Image
Last edited by spinningmagnets on Tue May 14, 2013 10:32 am, edited 5 times in total. View post history.
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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby spinningmagnets » Wed May 30, 2012 7:12 pm

Ebikes.ca uses 3-pin XLR connectors (a male-female set, of course) on their battery packs and chargers. The rubber fill inside the socket makes these more splash and weather-resistant. The plug-socket shells are polarized so you cant accidentally plug them in wrong.
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Re: Connectors ! Andersons, Deans, etc..

Postby spinningmagnets » Wed May 15, 2013 7:17 pm

from Amberwolf and Kingfish, use a micro-B size USB extension cable for the 5 small hall-wires on a hub motor. Cut the extension in half, and solder the bare ends to the hub and the controller hall wires. Both ends fit through the hole in the M14 nut, and also the hole of a variety of torque arms.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=28812#p415655
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