Controller mods

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Controller mods

Postby moonshine » Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:16 pm

I currently have a 18fet 4115 controller and a 12fet 4110 sensorless. My question to everyone is, how do you CORRECTLY mod a controller to handle more current? My 5404 and hubzilla are both laced into 26" rims. They need a decent amount of current (80a continuous and above) to keep me at the speeds i want (35-50). I've been advised to NOT use my 18 4115 with both motors...since it's not gonna handle it well...I can either sell it and try to find a decent 18fet 4110 or mod it. Seeing as how i'll most likely have to mod the 4110 if i were to get it, i would like to know how people are modding their controllers. I hear "beefing up traces, shunts" "bus bars" etc. I was hoping someone/anyone could shed some light. Thanks!
03 Giant DH comp w/ 05 swingarm, cromotor in 26" large marge, Kelly KBL96251, 24s4p
Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=40031
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Re: Controller mods

Postby dfar » Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:04 pm

i've been searching for the same thing and have come up with a few threads from zombies

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33847
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=37166
http://dynamic.opticalanarchy.com:8080/ ... /eb318mod/
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Re: Controller mods

Postby moonshine » Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:22 pm

dfar,

yea i saw zombiess thread about his upgrades and stuff...i talked to him and he said it was a PAIN IN THE ASS. So...im looking for the most important features of the "mods" I'm really interested in upgradin the phase wires and adding bus bars??? is that what you're gonna do?
03 Giant DH comp w/ 05 swingarm, cromotor in 26" large marge, Kelly KBL96251, 24s4p
Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=40031
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Re: Controller mods

Postby dnmun » Sun Jun 17, 2012 2:05 am

by bus bars you mean soldering a wire onto the back of the traces for the drain and source legs? you don't have to build it up with a lot of solder. just put a 12 AWG solid wire across from one end to the other and solder it along the length or just a few places is enuff because solder doesn't conduct as well as the copper wire so all the current will then go through the copper wire. and if you don't splatter a lot of solder around it doesn't get shorted. run the wire the entire length on both sides, from the shunt and from the Vcc main wire.
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