Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Offroader · Oct 28, 2014

Rodney64 said:
Offroader said:

Rodney64 said:

Quick question. I'm wanting to balance change using my BC168. I've been tripping the circuit breaker prior to changing but to trip the breaker I need to remove my side cover. Can I balance charge my pack when the controllers still powered up.

Click to expand...

Rodney, how do you balance charge your pack? Do you connect into the balance leads and charge from there?

Without disconnecting your battery from the series connection, you would fry the balance wires if trying to parallel charge the pack.

Click to expand...

No I leave the pack connected but trip my circuit breaker and yes charge though my balance leads.

Rodney, I think you would need to somehow describe exactly how your battery pack is wired together. My battery pack is setup so that I have to disconnect three connections in order to balance charge.

Simply by tripping the circuit breaker, which breaks one connection, wouldn't allow me to balance charge my 18s pack which has three 6s packs wired in series. The packs would still be wired in a series 6s-6s-6s for 18s.

If you are able to balance charge your pack by tripping just one circuit breaker than it probably shouldn't matter if your battery is hooked up to the controller or not. This assumes you are not running something like 6s & 6s for 12s and breaking the series with the circuit breaker.

You see charging wouldn't make any difference if you're still connected to your controller. It matters more when you plug your balance leads in and if you are trying to parallel charge.

I think someone in Australia custom made your pack? I would honestly ask him as he knows how your pack is wired together.

ridethelightning · Oct 29, 2014

bitcom77 said:
just thought I'd post this here
I've been having trouble with my setup (miniE with crown TC100) loosing power and stalling especially on hills
at first I thought this was due to some wiring issues or such
after I ruled that out I've been in touch with support (Oleg)
after quite a bit of testing and videos of the debug screen he suggested that this might be due to some incompatibility of the motor and to try the square wave mode until they release another firmware update that should fix this
so I did change the mode and after quite bit of testing I can confirm that the motor runs much better with the expected performance (although probably giving up some efficiency and also much noisier and more vibrations)

I hope this might help if someone else runs into this

yes i had heard of some particular problems with the crown motors and the adaptto. im suprised that its not compatable :?:

afterall, its just another bunch of magnets spinning round more copper wires.

- for anyone wanting to get a motor and adaptto out there, the cro and max-e are the dreamteam 8)

Cresh · Oct 29, 2014

ridethelightning said:
for anyone wanting to get a motor and adaptto out there, the cro and max-e are the dreamteam 8)

Yay! I'm a soon to be adaptto/cromotor/greyborg owner!
I noticed that it looks like the max-e might fit perfectly into the warp frame. Has anyone done this and care to share how you mounted it?

ridethelightning · Oct 29, 2014

Cresh said:
ridethelightning said:

for anyone wanting to get a motor and adaptto out there, the cro and max-e are the dreamteam 8)

Click to expand...

Yay! I'm a soon to be adaptto/cromotor/greyborg owner!
I noticed that it looks like the max-e might fit perfectly into the warp frame. Has anyone done this and care to share how you mounted it?

you dont need to bother worrying about mounting the adaptto, just get some wings ready 8) 8)

Offroader · Oct 29, 2014

I have to ship my screen back to Russia for warranty. It gave out on me while riding and is not legible. Probably looking at over a month or more to get it fixed or replaced.

Hopefully I can get a complete replacement because it has other issues since I got it like not exiting charge mode and buttons not working when charging.

crea2k · Oct 29, 2014

Looks like you have lost some lines, did you check the cable inside was plugged in / seated properly ?, as I noticed someone on the Russian forum has said that their display kept going off completely and coming back on, and it was because the ribbon cable wasn't in properly. Inside the display unit the ribbon plugs into the circuit board with a slide in connector that locks down onto the ribbon.

ridethelightning · Oct 29, 2014

that could explain the buttons being intermittant too.

if not, definately best to just ask for replacement, as there could be a larger problem in the controller itself causing the charge screen not working.

Offroader · Oct 29, 2014

Interesting, do the buttons and screen work through that ribbon cable? I think it is just the buttons to be honest, but I don't know.

I'm hoping to get a replacement anyway and not mess around with this as it honestly has too many issues.

The button problem is weird while charging, they seem to work if I press repeatedly and seem to work if I press hard?? I wonder why it only happens when charging.

I am surprised that nobody else has the issue of the controller not exiting charge mode when unplugging the coil. I'm hoping that isn't a problem in the controller itself and is a problem in the display. I was able to leave it by manually going into charge settings and turning charge mode to "off". Odd thing was when I got into this option it actually said charge mode "off". So in order to reset it I had to actually change it to "ON" and put it back to "off" so that I can save settings and reset the controller.

I'm a bit down about having this screen break on me, I have the feeling that this controller may break easily and have future problems, especially after reading all your guys problems.

I have not even hooked up my BMS yet.

sacko · Oct 30, 2014

Do the 2 diagrams contradict each other?

On the top picture the positive is closest to the BMS wire (that goes to the controller)

On the bottom picture the positive is at the other end of the board.

GCinDC said:

GCinDC said:
To use 5s packs, this works:

EDIT: My mistake, they do say the same thing.

sacko · Oct 30, 2014

I think I have done it, could someone have a look over it before I dig out the soldering iron

The BMS is upside down, and the packs are in that configuration because that is how it will be set out in my bike.

THE FOLLOWING IS INCORRECT

Offroader · Oct 30, 2014

Looks to follow the same pattern. Why did you bother to redraw it when someone has done that already with 5s packs?

Just a tip, once you connect them into the BMS like this I heard your packs have to be connected in series at all times while connected to the BMS.

I haven't worked out the math of why you can damage the BMS, but I believe where two different packs share the same wire, like cell 5 & 5, 10 & 10, when you disconnect your packs out of series it must change something. This wouldn't be an issue if you had 4s packs to begin with.

sacko · Oct 30, 2014

So I can follow it when I wired mine up. Makes it a lot easier when it is exactly how my pack layout is.

I am almost done, just got to wait for a 4s extension lead to arrive tomorrow hopefully.

Once you number the cells, the BMS wiring is quite easy to follow...

...may edit that when I test it tomorrow!

ridethelightning · Oct 30, 2014

looks moreor less correct sacko. one thing though, if you havnt realised, on the bms board, the bottom negative is not at the edge of the board where youd expect.

each set of 5 connection tabs on the board is flipped back to front. counter intuitive..(so for eg. the 0v should be where the 4 is, and so on)

just thought id shout out to make sure you double check...as it doesnt seem like that on the drawing.

Rodney64 · Oct 31, 2014

I have been trying to find a way to lock the controller in one of the 3 modes. Economy/normal/boost but unable to do so. Is it possible for adaptto to change the program do this. This way the bike will be legal if I have the bike programed correctly.

An issue that Im having at the moment sometimes when I stop my controller goes into charge mode. Not sure why but the only way is to reset the over load and its inside the frame.

This was after I put in a password. Not sure if its related or not. I have now done a master rest and will see how it goes.

Rodney64 · Oct 31, 2014

double post

Rodney64 · Oct 31, 2014

Offroader said:
Rodney64 said:

Offroader said:

Quick question. I'm wanting to balance change using my BC168. I've been tripping the circuit breaker prior to changing but to trip the breaker I need to remove my side cover. Can I balance charge my pack when the controllers still powered up.

Click to expand...

Without disconnecting your battery from the series connection, you would fry the balance wires if trying to parallel charge the pack.

Click to expand...

No I leave the pack connected but trip my circuit breaker and yes charge though my balance leads.

Rodney, I think you would need to somehow describe exactly how your battery pack is wired together. My battery pack is setup so that I have to disconnect three connections in order to balance charge.

Simply by tripping the circuit breaker, which breaks one connection, wouldn't allow me to balance charge my 18s pack which has three 6s packs wired in series. The packs would still be wired in a series 6s-6s-6s for 18s.

If you are able to balance charge your pack by tripping just one circuit breaker than it probably shouldn't matter if your battery is hooked up to the controller or not. This assumes you are not running something like 6s & 6s for 12s and breaking the series with the circuit breaker.

You see charging wouldn't make any difference if you're still connected to your controller. It matters more when you plug your balance leads in and if you are trying to parallel charge.

I think someone in Australia custom made your pack? I would honestly ask him as he knows how your pack is wired together.[/quote]

["Rodney64"]No, I'm not parallel charging only in series. I will go 24S tomorrow and see how that goes charging to 98 Volt. This way I can bulk charge,"]

sacko · Oct 31, 2014

Plugged it all in this morning and had a few error messages as I have not done the full setup (I presume).

Could someone explain what is meant by this;

Next, enter the Menu -> BMS setup -> BMS setup. There made all the settings BMS.

Each expansion card should have your number. The new BMS expansion cards are numbered in order and are numbered from 1 to 7.
In the configuration of BMS (Channel A config) must specify how many cells which extension serves. The extension module may be either off (0 cells), or 2,3 or 4 to interrogate the cell.
Poll 1 cell expansion module can not. So if you have the last expansion module accounts for one cell, then the penultimate board takes another cell and 3-cell configuration is obtained on the second board and 2 on the latter.

Offroader thanks for the info, but i didn't really understand what was meant. I have added some more photos.

Any help would be appreciated

Adaptto E-Drives Lab · Oct 31, 2014

Hello everyone!

Just to show the BMS wiring scheme for those having troubles with it.

Will come up with smth much more significant soon!

All the best!

sacko · Oct 31, 2014

So referring back to this post, the latter is not correct as bottom of the pack (ground) starts from the far side of the board?

Ground should start to the left of the board, but the controller cable?

GCinDC · Oct 31, 2014

hey sacko, the first cell group, cells 1-4 are closest to the BMS cable, as Oleg/adaptto's diagram indicates.

it's confusing cause it's upside down and backwards.

but on your battery pack, find you GND side, and grab the balance connector and plug it in the BMS in the connector closest to the cable, furthest from the breakable boards... then plug in the second cell group beside the last one... follow adpatto's diagram above.

Offroader · Oct 31, 2014

Adaptto E-Drives Lab said:
Hello everyone!

Just to show the BMS wiring scheme for those having troubles with it.

Does this changes the 20S example any?

This is for 21S, not sure how to adapt it to 20S or 22S.

What is the point of a circuit breaker on the BMS?

sacko · Nov 1, 2014

GCinDC said:
hey sacko, the first cell group, cells 1-4 are closest to the BMS cable, as Oleg/adaptto's diagram indicates.

it's confusing cause it's upside down and backwards.

but on your battery pack, find you GND side, and grab the balance connector and plug it in the BMS in the connector closest to the cable, furthest from the breakable boards... then plug in the second cell group beside the last one... follow adpatto's diagram above.

Thanks for the info.

Something like this then;

ridethelightning · Nov 1, 2014

Nope sorry sacko

take the first board, 0,1,2,3,4 on the bms

as we are looking at it, the way you have it there, you should have 4,3,2,1,0.

so as we are looking at it, on the bms side, it should be:

4,3,2,1,0 -- 8,7,6,5,4 -- 12,11,10,9,8 -- 16,15,14,13,12 -- 20,19,18,17,16, -- 24,23,22,21,20 .

do it like this and it will work :mrgreen:

on the last board, if your only doing 22s say for example its:

22,21,20

good luck with it guys!

sacko · Nov 1, 2014

Thanks for writing that.

I have given up though, and bought some 4s packs! :roll:

GCinDC · Nov 1, 2014

i would recommend not overthinking the bms wiring itself. the jst-xh connectors only fit in one way, so as long as you insert the first one (from first cell group) in near the BMS cable, you'll be good to go.

if you do that, you needn't worry about positive or negative sides of the bms...

i just did some wiring for my maxE: i added precharge circuit (even though i have a breaker on the batt), and in order to keep the psu/coil from dangling in the air when i charge, extended those wires. i also wired for bulk charging, so i will have the option of either:

i need to keep 4mm bullets on the phase wires for now, but eventually will put XT-150s on the motor phase wires so i won't need these adapters..

and just before i put shrink tube over the precharge resitor..

after the shrink. i won't be needing to turn the system off much, but when i do, i disconnect main and precharge, then connect precharge, wait a couple seconds, then connect main. no spark.

Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

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