Damnit, motor wont turn.. Help? again... thx

Ok crap… (deep breath)
*48v lipo4 battery/ 48v 1000w front hub*

I finally received my 5 amp charger from the Ebay seller I purchased my battery from. I plugged it into the bike and left it over night. While plugging it in I discovered that my battery case was loose, so I unplugged and removed the battery and BMI from the case, then I removed the case from the Bike. I did some grinding and refitted the case to the bike. I then put everything back together, start it her up, twist the lever to go annnnnnd… the wheel moved a “c hair” as Reid Welch would say. After the initial c hair movement the wheel seems to want to lock up.

All lights and horn are working correctly… Just not the main component The wheel.

I fear either the battery charger messed something up, or perhaps some aluminum dust/shards managed to get into the controller as all was well before these two events.

What should I do? I have a multimeter handy, and I am ready to stick my probes into stuff.

Any information, even sympathy, would be much appreciated.

I used a vaccume and a leaf blower on the controller and still no go.

I just rechecked all my wires, they are in good condition and all are connected as they should be. I looked inside my controllerbox and all I can tell you is it is there, heh.. I have no idea what I am looking for, if anything, inside that thing... it smells fine (shrug) no obvious burns (another shrug)... In an attempt to help make my situation more clear I have created a youtube video. Which I will ATTEMPT to embed.

Watch for the sudden SMALL lurch as I press the throttle, and listen for a high pitch coming from the hub.
ok.. I can't seem to emberd here, I was able to embed photos using the same method... I know it can be done, I have seen Reid Welch do it, I am sure it is something simple I am doing wrong. Here is a direct link to the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hicJ4vGX-HA

[youtube]<object width="445" height="364"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/hicJ4vGX-HA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/hicJ4vGX-HA&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="445" height="364"></embed></object>[/youtube]

Hello Subfightr, thank you for replying to your own desperate plea for help. I see you have lost your freaking mind in trying to fix this, I know you have a brushless 48v/1000 watt hub w/ a 48v 20ah lipo4 battery but what is the make of your controller?

Hi Subfightr, yeah I know, I have totally lost it, anyway to answer your/my question to.. myself.. I have spent my very last brain cell looking for this controller, I believe the maker of this controller is Infineon as it looks VERY MUCH like THIS:

but perhaps a bit longer. I got the photo from an Ebay auction located here http://cgi.ebay.com/Infineon-Electric-Bike-Motor-Controller-36-48V-30A_W0QQitemZ290340998517QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4399ac0d75&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Hopefully this information will help someone help me. Thank you for your time.

does the bike work with an sla battery?
did you doublecheck the polarity of the battery?

The battery does have voltage? Under load? Controller cuts off from low voltage maybe? Definitely handy to have another battery around at times like this, for testing.

I get 53 volts at the plug where the charger is to be plugged into, and 53 volts at the connecter that goes into the BMS. BUT, I no longer have a *spark* when plugging the battery connecters back in…

To dogman, I don’t know how to test under load. I suppose I should turn the bike on, pull the throttle and then shove the probes into the battery connector?

I do have 4 12v SLA’s though I could prolly only get 20 -30 volts out of them by now.

To Lessss, I did double check the battery polarity; I made it so it was not possible for me to reverse polarity because I knew it was a matter of time before I did.

But yeah, this battery does seem to be working based not only on the voltage reading of 53v but also on the fact that I can bike on, run the headlight, and the horn, none of which take a great deal of voltage though and for a brief moment cause the motor to move ever so slightly. I would suspect the battery bike would shut off were it not able to keep up with the load demands because of the BMI.
Were either of you able to view the video?
Thank you both so much for taking the time to help me.

I was guessing at how to test "under load" just a bit ago. I stuck my multimeter probes into the connections I made to connect the controller to the battery, the battery read 53 volts when not in use, I held down the throttle and the meter reads 49v for 3 seconds then back to 53v. I did this 3 times untill a spark came from what I think is one of my 3 phase wires, the green one coming from my controller, the wire was hot to the touch. My eyes then widened like this .... and then I walked away like this

Ideas? helpful hints? anything?