Controller wiring HELP

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Controller wiring HELP

Postby danmansuttmeier » Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:21 pm

Hey guys I am building a electric bike with a 24v 1000w Currie motor, two 12v 35AH SLA batteries, and a Yiyun Model# YC43 controller. This is the link to the controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Electric ... mainQ5f100

I believe the 3 prong plug with the blue, black, and red wires is for the throttle. The large red and black wires are for the batteries but what is the large green wire and the other plug with yellow and black wires for?
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Re: Controller wiring HELP

Postby Lyen » Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:51 am

danmansuttmeier wrote:Hey guys I am building a electric bike with a 24v 1000w Currie motor, two 12v 35AH SLA batteries, and a Yiyun Model# YC43 controller. This is the link to the controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Electric ... mainQ5f100

I believe the 3 prong plug with the blue, black, and red wires is for the throttle. The large red and black wires are for the batteries but what is the large green wire and the other plug with yellow and black wires for?


Hi Danmansuttmeier,

I was also from the brushed motor world so I think I am qualified to answer your questions since I do have some identical controllers for my 1000w Currie motors as well. :)

The large green wire is to the motor negative. As for the motor positive, you simply share it with the battery positive. Lastly, the yellow/black is the e-brake wires. :)

Regards,
Lyen
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Re: Controller wiring HELP

Postby danmansuttmeier » Thu Jul 29, 2010 6:49 pm

Ok if the green goes to the battery negative what does the black go to? And will this work if i dont want to use the e-brake wires?
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Re: Controller wiring HELP

Postby Lyen » Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:56 am

danmansuttmeier wrote:Ok if the green goes to the battery negative what does the black go to? And will this work if i dont want to use the e-brake wires?


Please re-read my previous post. The green goes to motor negative, not battery negative. The controller do works without the e-brake wires. May I ask why you did not contact the seller at the first place for the clarification on wiring? :wink:
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Re: Controller wiring HELP

Postby danmansuttmeier » Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:39 pm

O lol sorry i had a brain fart reading your post I guess. I contacted the seller and he said he did not know and to contact the manufacturer who did not return my E-mail. I've bought a Currie motor 1000w for $72 on Ebay, the controller for $46 on Ebay, two 35Ah SLA batteries for $120 on batterymart, and the throttle for $10 on Ebay as well. I am using an old mountain bike with three front sprockets that could be shifted during riding. I will remove this front sprocket shifting feature and Im going to have the motor with its 15 tooth sprocket chained to the mountain bikes biggest front sprocket. Then I will have the mountain bike's chain on the smallest sprocket which then goes to the rear sprockets which i will leave alone so I can shift while riding. I am arranging it this way because I am worried about the bike not having the power to move my 160lb self. I want this bike as fast as possible. I am hoping the arrangement of gears i just described give the motor the greatest mechanical advantage possible. Yes I will lose my pedals in doing this and I will weld pegs so it is no longer a bicycle but a electric bike i guess. I do not want to spend money on e-brakes so i will be using the stock bicycle brakes which will put me over the handlebars if i stop as quickly as possible. Do you see any problems with what i just described for my bike? Any suggestions for the gearing, maybe a different arrangement of the chains and sprockets? Do you believe with this setup of parts and gearing the bike will be able to pull me along?
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Re: Controller wiring HELP

Postby Lyen » Fri Jul 30, 2010 4:32 pm

danmansuttmeier wrote:O lol sorry i had a brain fart reading your post I guess. I contacted the seller and he said he did not know and to contact the manufacturer who did not return my E-mail. I've bought a Currie motor 1000w for $72 on Ebay, the controller for $46 on Ebay, two 35Ah SLA batteries for $120 on batterymart, and the throttle for $10 on Ebay as well. I am using an old mountain bike with three front sprockets that could be shifted during riding. I will remove this front sprocket shifting feature and Im going to have the motor with its 15 tooth sprocket chained to the mountain bikes biggest front sprocket. Then I will have the mountain bike's chain on the smallest sprocket which then goes to the rear sprockets which i will leave alone so I can shift while riding. I am arranging it this way because I am worried about the bike not having the power to move my 160lb self. I want this bike as fast as possible. I am hoping the arrangement of gears i just described give the motor the greatest mechanical advantage possible. Yes I will lose my pedals in doing this and I will weld pegs so it is no longer a bicycle but a electric bike i guess. I do not want to spend money on e-brakes so i will be using the stock bicycle brakes which will put me over the handlebars if i stop as quickly as possible. Do you see any problems with what i just described for my bike? Any suggestions for the gearing, maybe a different arrangement of the chains and sprockets? Do you believe with this setup of parts and gearing the bike will be able to pull me along?


Hi Danmansuttmeier,

You may want to start a new topic below that deals with non-hub motor drives so more people can see your post and provide their ideas and opinions:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=28

Regards,
Lyen
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