New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

[Nanoha]

Maybe you disc rotor is not alined or torqued evenly? That would be my guess. Happened to my motor until I got some pretty rad BB7's and a bigger rotor professionally installed. No more squeeking.

It shouldn't matter because the problem only happens when I accelerate hard.
As John in CR states, it probably has something to do with the laminations but I thought the bearings should prevent that from happening.

[Trackman417]

Found this on ebikes.ca website

My motor has a wobble when it spins, is this normal?

Yes, the manufacturing tolerances of the Crystalyte are such that the hub rarely spins perfectly true. It is none the less possible to lace the rim to spin true and centred even if the hub has some wobble.

Another possible explanation

[Bazaki]

Almost all HT and HS motors do wobble, some more some less. Mine even wobbles the disc against the caliper, so my rim is straight but the HUB itself is wobbling and I don't think it is fixable.

I wonder why, I mean there is a shaft with bearings so that should be absolutely true right ?
Then what part or construction makes it wobble ?

It is not a big deal since I never notice it while riding.

[Harold in CR]

Didn't John in CR make the point, that, if anyone removes a side cover, it should be marked first, so the screw holes get lined up correctly, to avoid wobbling ??

You might take out all the side cover screws, 1 side at a time, and rotate the cover, 1 hole at a time, to see if it gets better or worse. If you correct the wobbling, no need to do the other side. No need to remove the side covers, just rotate them.

[John in CR]

The effect I was speculating about would only be on the X5 style motors. Do the other models really wobble? At no load WOT with just a raw motor, no wheel? The old style 9C I have had horribly out of balance covers that I was able to correct by machining down where the material was 2mm thicker, but the holes cut in the cast AL piece for the bearings were perfectly centered relative to the lip for the magnet retaining ring, so no wobble, just some vibration till I fixed the issue. Without something off center there can't be a wobble. A wobbly motor should be a factory reject. I've never seen a wobble, and I've had about 20 different makes.

Are you sure you guys aren't talking some left/right drift. That I have seen, and will make a brake disc rub, primarily in turns. A number of hubbies I've seen have a spring washer or a pair of spring washers between the bearing and in interior shoulder on the axle on each side. They're to keep everything spinning freely and the rotor centered relative to the stator. The result is that the rotor can drift very slightly left or right when under a side load, but it still spins on a plane perpendicular to the axle and no wobble.

I guess bad enough bearings could result in wobble. I've had a bad bearing develop before, where the bearing had some play in it. There was no grinding or wobbling or noise, but if I pushed on the edge of the wheel it would go slightly off plane. While riding the only thing I noticed was a strange tracking shift sometimes as I crossed over the crown of the road or other uneven parts of the road, but that was on my motor with about 15k miles on a heavy hardtail that took some pretty hard pothole shots over the years, so a worn out bearing was to be expected.

I'm sorry, but if a new motor actually wobbles, that's inexcusable. If true, I feel even luckier never to have followed the masses.

John

[waynebergman]

Wow John I notice you have posted 8000 responses. Thanks on behalf of many who have been helped by your observations and input.

[Trackman417]

Wow John I notice you have posted 8000 responses. Thanks on behalf of many who have been helped by your observations and input.

+ 1 mate!
Congratulations!

On another note I say we get a H4080 group buy started right here in America!
Waynebergman gets free shipping on this congratulatory occasion (JK)

[coldfusion594]

I did not want to start a whole new thread... but since this thread deals with Crystalyte motors...

Is the HS3540 better or worse than the X5305 in terms of speed and reliability?

[auraslip]

Is the HS3540 better or worse than the X5305 in terms of speed and reliability?

It's half the motor.

[GCinDC]

I did not want to start a whole new thread... but since this thread deals with Crystalyte motors...

Is the HS3540 better or worse than the X5305 in terms of speed and reliability?

perfect use for the ebikes.ca simulator!

5303 is quite a bit heavier. i can't speak to it's other qualities. if you want to pull a bus, you'll need a 5303, but if you're looking for a good motor for less than 3kw, the hs3540 is an excellent value.

[Trackman417]

5303 is quite a bit heavier. i can't speak to it's other qualities. if you want to pull a bus, you'll need a 5303, but if you're looking for a good motor for less than 3kw, the hs3540 is an excellent value.

I think you got your 5303 and your 5305 mixed up. If you want to TRY and haul a bus and, while your at it, burn out your motor and controller you'll need the 5303.

[bikesport1000]

Has anybody received a new HS or HT recently? If positive: Is there any change in design meanwhile e.g. to avoid the motor suicide by phase cable cutting'?

[John in CR]

Has anybody received a new HS or HT recently? If positive: Is there any change in design meanwhile e.g. to avoid the motor suicide by phase cable cutting'?

If they haven't fixed that after a year, then a boycott should be started immediately.

[sn0wchyld]

Has anybody received a new HS or HT recently? If positive: Is there any change in design meanwhile e.g. to avoid the motor suicide by phase cable cutting'?

If they haven't fixed that after a year, then a boycott should be started immediately.

given the latest and 'greatest' 5400's came out with similar wire cutting issues I wouldn't count on anything having changed...

[Trackman417]

Has anybody received a new HS or HT recently? If positive: Is there any change in design meanwhile e.g. to avoid the motor suicide by phase cable cutting'?

If you buy the H-series motors from ebikes.ca and methtek, you receive them with the wire cut mod, no need to do it your self.
I recently purchased the HS-3540 from ebikes.ca and I like the motor.... A lot

[ohzee]

I am still running a HT 3525 at 24S lipo 60amps. Cut myself some cooling holes and she's still doing great no issues.

Probably have 1500 miles on her by now. I even noticed last night on methtek.com that the prices are dropped about 100$ since
I bought mine.

[nicobie]

I am still running a HT 3525 at 24S lipo 60amps. Cut myself some cooling holes and she's still doing great no issues..

I have exactly the same setup in a 24" wheel also with zero problems. Aren't you glad you went with the HT3525? I sure am.

[ohzee]

I sure am nicobie.

I replaced halls once and painted my copper with an insulator.

Need to get th 5404 going so i have something to compare.

My macs just cant take this kind of abuse.

[Trackman417]

I have 615 miles on mine running 20s at 40 amps. Runs like a charm Nothing needs replacing yet, know on wood. I'm also quite surprised with the torque! It blasted up the steepest hill I could throw at 30 mph.

[auraslip]

Can anyone help me with a question?

I have an hs3540, an 18 fet controller, and a 22s lipo pack. How much power can this setup deliver with the controller unlimited? I ask because I'm only seeing 60a peaks and I suspect something is wrong.

[Trackman417]

Can anyone help me with a question?

I have an hs3540, an 18 fet controller, and a 22s lipo pack. How much power can this setup deliver with the controller unlimited? I ask because I'm only seeing 60a peaks and I suspect something is wrong.

Yeah looks like your controller has something wrong with it.... I would sell it ASAP

Just kidding!

Looks like your motor is getting nice and comfy running that voltage.
If you set up the ebikes.ca simulator for your motor, set up the voltage to 92.4, and set the controller to 100 amps and its in a 26 inch wheel. You will find the motor, at start up will suck in all the amps it can from the controller, but as the motor starts to get up to speed it hits a point where the power, the motor needs to accelerate goes down, drastically. The simulator puts the amp draw, at that 92.4 volts, at around 60 amps. Nothing to worry about.

As far as the explanation goes, I am still learning this as well

[Ypedal]

The stock 18 fet controller is configured to limit power at 60 battery amps. situation normal.

If you modify the controller you can allow the controller to pass more current but pushing a system close to it's limits means higher chance of magic smoke.. 60 amps is proper and more than enough to get you in trouble. .. but reliable.

[auraslip]

Thanks for the responses guys. Something must be wrong with my controller! I have soldered the shunt up, and it's still only pulling 60a. (peak is a bit higher)

In the ebike.ca sim It shows I should be able to do almost 12kw, but instead I'm sitting at 5kw.

[John in CR]

In the ebike.ca sim It shows I should be able to do almost 12kw, but instead I'm sitting at 5kw.

Did you notice the efficiency at that peak 12kw...probably about 50%, so the motor wouldn't last long at all. What is your peak current set to in the CA? Maybe that's the cause. Also, there's a much better way than just slapping solder on a shunt.
I demonstrate a simple way here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31643&p=458366, and Bigmoose also shows us a more elegant way in the same thread. There's also a more recent thread with more info about using a voltage divider.

John

[Hyena]

Yeah the 18 fet controllers are actually set/advertised as 50a out of the box. It' weird that you're not seeing more than that though if you've soldered up the shunt. Especially with a HS motor at that voltage. With the HT I could understand it, because they're actually fairly efficient and don't suck much current. I soldered/wired the crap out of a shunt a while back after after testing a (then) new 8x8 9C and finding it wouldn't draw over 60 amps. In the end I figured there was something wrong with the controller until I hooked it up to a 9x7 9C and found it then drew 120 amps.

John, when hardware modding shunts I do something similar with strands of copper only I have them wider off the shunt in a U shape and somewhat fanned out. I start off with higher current than wanted for a given number of strands for the gauge of the wire then snip through each strand to fairly accurately lower current in steps. Doing it in the software is easier if you have a programmable controller but this isnt always an option.
I've also tried playing with the shunt bias resistor ( was a few years ago now so can't rememeber which one it is) and didn't have much luck but I was adding parallel resistance to the existing one to reduce the value without cutting any traces so maybe that's why...

As for the wire cut issues, the latest motors have a new wiring exit plastic surround that slides down the axle and holes the wire in place, preventing them being cut like before. I have a few spares if any Aussies still have a motor from the first batch that has issues.