auraslip wrote:Very nice! How much did they charge you?
Re the above, I'd rather have two bolts than the spline. Customer would drill holes and bolt to his angle, or just weld it.
John in CR wrote:Anyone who thinks their torque arms are sufficient should consider this. After almost 2.5 years my dropouts, which are 1/2" thick steel each side with a snug tap in fit to the axle, recently developed a hint of play due to 9 months of regen braking.
Many of the motor axles are pretty soft too, so hard steel in the torque arm or dropouts may not help. Thickness for more contact area is what matters, and if you have regen, you better have a clamping type.
auraslip wrote:That derailluer hanger looks like butter compared to my 1/4" steel torque plate of approximently the same size that only lasted half a mile.Many of the motor axles are pretty soft too, so hard steel in the torque arm or dropouts may not help. Thickness for more contact area is what matters, and if you have regen, you better have a clamping type.
John, it seems like you are the resident expert for using high powered hubs safely and reliably. If you say clamping torque arms are the only option, I will believe you and start planning a clamping torque arm design on my next bike. I know you've covered it hundreds of time by now, so I feel bad suggesting it, but you should consider doing a FAQ on making them for everyone else.
John in CR wrote:...
Here's one of my clamping type next to what at first glance seems like a nice thick through hole type torque arm until you see that the axle is about to spin even before the motor is turned on.
auraslip wrote:Thanks John. I think you won this thread
Figuring out how to make this for a reasonably experienced guy should be cake.
One question though: Do you think It'd be acceptable to drill the bolt hole all the way through and secure the bolt with a nut on the other end? A good tap and die set can be.... expensive.
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