torque arm picture thread

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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby Quajochem » Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:55 pm

I have 2 good thicker torque arms now! and they are VERY well secured!! Because this happened to my first arm in my first 200m with my mac: :oops:
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I grinded the axle to an exact fit on one side now:
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I also tried to dissipate the forces evenly on the fork as to stress it as less as possible.
On one side I made use of the eh 'thing/brackets' that normally hold the diskbrake caliper.
I also looked at the direction they want to turn in when you hit the throttle.
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O in fact there are 3 torque arms on it.
:D
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby Timma2500 » Wed May 30, 2012 12:04 pm

I got some ideas from this thread for my torque arms so i thought i'd contribute what i learnt.

10mm thick mild steel made using a grinder, drill, file and M6 tap:

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Paul :D
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby neptronix » Wed May 30, 2012 12:49 pm

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These plates tolerated 6kW-8kW of very torquey power for a good amount of time, and pretty strong regen as well ( 700-1250w ).

In the end when i dismantled the magic pie bike and sold it's componentry, after almost 2 years of abuse, i still had to bang on the axle to get the motor out of it's dropouts. I looked at the torque plates and they were still perfect. I couldn't believe it.

I've been preaching this method of making torque plates for mid-high power setups for a long time now. They might not have stood up to a Crystalyte 54xx or cromotor hubzilla, but they were pretty effing strong.

Always overbuild your torque mounting bits. You'll pat yourself on the back later rather than kicking yourself in the ass as you gradually pump more & more power into your motor :)
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Pro-tips for noobs: Avoid BMS Battery like the plague | Charge RC Lipos to 4.15v, stop discharging at 3.5-3.6v | Use torque plates/arms! | Rear mounted hubs are always best
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby Farfle » Wed May 30, 2012 3:34 pm

here is the axle/dropout setup from the dual pie. Better than clamping dropouts. good for 3.5kw of regen, and 22kw of output power.

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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby spinningmagnets » Wed Aug 22, 2012 4:59 pm

Cross-posting these two threads so a search will turn up both:

"Found an awesome torque arm" (3 pages)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11570

Some pics of what happens when you don't use a torque-arm, and the wires in the hub are ripped out at the root..

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Last edited by spinningmagnets on Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:26 pm, edited 4 times in total. View post history.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby RC Extreme Power » Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:45 am

My solution after mistake of not using them.

Sorry I do not know how to post pictures direct into post.

Milton
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby John in CR » Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:12 pm

Paul,
I'm sorry I missed this one back when you posted it. That's pure artistry with a grinder and a file resulting in a perfect torque arm in both looks and function.
John

Timma2500 wrote:I got some ideas from this thread for my torque arms so i thought i'd contribute what i learnt.

10mm thick mild steel made using a grinder, drill, file and M6 tap:
017.JPG


Paul :D
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby GMUseless » Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:38 pm

John in CR wrote:Paul,
I'm sorry I missed this one back when you posted it. That's pure artistry with a grinder and a file resulting in a perfect torque arm in both looks and function.
John

Timma2500 wrote:I got some ideas from this thread for my torque arms so i thought i'd contribute what i learnt.

10mm thick mild steel made using a grinder, drill, file and M6 tap:
017.JPG


Paul :D


Indeed! I hand filed and grinded the arms for my Kona Supreme, mine look terrible, and it was an assload of work. Yours look CNC'd...to have been done by hand is mind blowing.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby spinningmagnets » Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:18 pm

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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby auraslip » Mon Sep 17, 2012 7:41 pm

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Sorry for the crappy picture.

Torque arms were from DOC. Decided they had too much play to be useful.
Chopped them up and tapped them out to make them clamping.
Then Glued to the frame.
Then decided they should be drilled in.
Hard metal. Got really hot drilling it. My bad. This made the glue pop one off.

Oh well. They work fine for 6kw.
Will they work for 10kw?
Loving how easy it is to remove the motor though!
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby spinningmagnets » Sun Oct 28, 2012 3:40 pm

ES member green machine with a 1000W front BMC geared hub on an aluminum fork with two torque arms. Because he was using two torque arms (one on each side of the front hub) there was no crash or accident, he merely felt that something was wrong...

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=45025
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Last edited by spinningmagnets on Sun Oct 28, 2012 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total. View post history.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby RLD70 » Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:35 pm

What torque arm would be a perfect fit for this type of dropout and where do I purchase it from?
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby neptronix » Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:42 pm

Oh man. That looks like one of the bikes that is more difficult to make one for. No meat anywhere.
ES facebook group: http://facebook.com/#!/home.php?sk=group_125035107565566&ap=1

The all-arounder: 8T MAC motor on a Trek 4500.
The girlfriend bike: 350W front MAC on a 700c Trek.
The wheelie machine: 20" Rear Magic Pie II on a Trek 4300 MTB
The Bus: ??? on a 'da bomb' cargo bike frame

Pro-tips for noobs: Avoid BMS Battery like the plague | Charge RC Lipos to 4.15v, stop discharging at 3.5-3.6v | Use torque plates/arms! | Rear mounted hubs are always best
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby RLD70 » Sat Feb 23, 2013 5:55 pm

neptronix wrote:Oh man. That looks like one of the bikes that is more difficult to make one for. No meat anywhere.


Tell me about it, you shouldve seen me putting the motor on it. Took nearly 4 hours to get it on the frame and the weird thing is I didnt really have any problems keeping the wheel on the frame until I changed the inner tube a few days ago and now the motor works but it doesnt. It happened late this morning after the wheel came out of the dropouts again this time however the motor wouldnt stay running like it usually did the previous times it came off.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby isd88 » Sat Feb 23, 2013 6:25 pm

Hi, i love adjustable torque arm but when i designed my own TA i didn t realized how to make them adjustable. Now i see your nice works and i m a little ambarrassed ..... that s my hard work


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MAin cut has been done using waterjet cut. The two small holes are made by press drill by myself. I applied on a decathlon hoptown folding bike and they seems to work properly.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby spinningmagnets » Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:44 pm

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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby Doctorbass » Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:19 pm

Here is the Rev5 of the Ultimate Torque Arms that set i've been succesfully selling since 5 years now.

Over 300 set sold :wink: and still ZERO T-A failure!

Made of the toughest steel and 3/8" thick to have the better compromize between axel lengh and strengh.
(Domex steel is stronger and harder than regular steel or stainless steel) ( Must be lasercutted !)

Original Thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=29129&hilit=ultimate

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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby Bison_69 » Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:55 pm

Hi there,

Here are my damageless torque-arms on my Giant DH Comp...

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32014#p463437
DSCN1955a.JPG
Torque Arms
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Those 3 type of alloy are among the best suitable choice to build the torque-arms
Domex, Hardox and QT-100.
Domex 100 W.pdf
Domex
(189.2 KiB) Downloaded 21 times

Hardox_450.pdf
Hardox
(76.13 KiB) Downloaded 12 times

QT-100 Alloy.pdf
QT-100
(1.37 MiB) Downloaded 8 times
Last edited by Bison_69 on Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:28 pm, edited 2 times in total. View post history.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby spinningmagnets » Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:43 am

From pendragon8000 (bike is upside down in pic)

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47452#p698847
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby botz244 » Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:49 am

this is on my Ti Mukluk
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4130 steel 10 mm wide
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im running single speed now
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby isd88 » Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:39 pm

Hi , i changed motor and i m going to build new torque arm. I managed to choose adjustable tecnique to better fit the axle in order to implement regen braking. I designed what i think is the best option for my frame.

TA left2.png


This is the left one, the right one will be without brake holder and thinnet at the bottom because of the derailleur. Can someone help me with this design? i think this is the best i can do. The TA is made by one single piece of inox steel (the only one available in italy for this kind o work) and i will drill an hole (the red line) where a screw (m5) will be placed in order to close the torque arm on the axle. Any other hole in the frame will be used to hold in place the torque arm
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby friendly1uk » Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:34 pm

You would have to consider assembly order carefully with the above design. Otherwise turning the screw could move the axle away from the frame, loading your your design with the bikes weight, not just some turning force. This weight would be upon the smaller triangular bit, held only by the stressed hinge like bit and the 5mm screw, that may already be under considerable stress from trying to move sideways.


This is a very good thread. I'm going to adopt the pinch bolt idea, and cut my designs dropout slot just a millimeter deeper than needs be. I want to be sure my bike frame sits on the axle. I'm not trying to take any weight at all. I only have two fixing holes present for my little plate, and they look about M4. They will be troubled by the motor torque alone. I want the bike to take the weight, while my gizmo just stops it turning. Perhaps the goal of everybody, But I need to pay special attention


I don't have a picture, But soon as I do I will post it

Edit: I wonder if anyone has filed out an eaten dropout to take a steel insert. Think 'square roofing nut' And it staying there because it simply can't fall out when it's all assembled.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby isd88 » Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:50 pm

you are right, i will drill mounting holes after setting the pinch screw. I did this when i installed first set of torque arm ( not adjustable ) and it worked quite well. i have 3 mounting holes , i think it will be a very rigid installation but i will pay attention to the distance betweel axle and frame.
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Re: torque arm picture thread

Postby DVDRW » Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:26 am

My homemade foolproof stainless steel arms: 8)
Handmade using 4mm stainless steel sheet, files, welding, metal saw and thread mill.
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