72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

[iovaykind]

Most of the plugs you'll need to resolder with the connections you'd like other than maybe the hall sensor plug.

[wesnewell]

Mine came with ring terminals for power and phase wires. Forgot the others. I just cut off and replaced the ones I used with the connectors I wanted anyway.

[bobale]

Iovaykind, did you recieve my PM about this controller?

[iovaykind]

Replied.

Gonna see if I can open up the controller today to work out the three speed switch. Is it simply grounding x1 vs x2 vs x3 to get the three different speed options?

[PeeHell]

Wow if you guys get the 3 speed switch to work that would mean this controller is a steal (32$) !
Does anyone has had any issues or negative experiences with it thus far ?

[Black6spdZ]

Decided to open my controller up and get some pics.. maybe we can brainstorm and find more advanced features of this unit.
15x IRFB4410 N-Channel MOSFETs
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) 100V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25° C 96A
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs 10 mOhm @ 58A, 10V
Power - Max 250W

1x 1000uF 100v Filter cap
2x 470uF 100v Filter caps

yellow/white stripe 60/120 phase wire lands on pad M4
brake wire lands on pad SH
cruise on pad ZL
speed sensor on pad SD

It appears the phase wires have been installed incorrectly, the motor phase outputs yellow, blue and green are installed on pads marked U,V and W where as the Hall phase wires blue lands on U pad, green on V and yellow on W.

my guess is the M1-M3 pads are speed and reverse functions.. I will experiment a little later
X and XL pad on topside regen?

[Rumberopie]

Hi guys,
After your test, what are the maximum specifications of this controller?
I can go at 24s lipo (max 100,8v) 40a with this controller.
I would like to use it with my 48v1000w conhismotor.
You think its ok?

Sorry for my terrible english.

[iovaykind]

The controller has 100v caps so 24s fully charged may be pushing it. Though with voltage sag you should be alright, I wouldnt' try it myself but its such a cheap controller might be worth testing to see if it'd work.

[wesnewell]

Mine handles anything from 18-24s without a problem. At 24s with 1000W motor, the speed and power isn't for the weak of heart. At 24s the throttle gets touchy and takes a lot of practice to take off without jumping, but you get max speed with it.

[nieles]

for everyone with one of these controllers, do not stress the fets too much.

the fets are stamped fb4410 instead of irfb4410, so this tells me the fets are fake

which is not really suprising considdering the cost of the controller

(i also have one btw)

[kentlim26]

the hua tong 72v 1500watts is it only really 15fets ?

i think im quite happy to stay with 48v 2000watts on the cyclone motor. the torque is very good and pick in 50km/h in just few seconds. the 48v 2000watts is a 18fets, i don't know if the fets are real or fake. if this thing, hua tong can let me run more then 5500km, i can say this controller better then the Orginal cyclone controller 1200watts. so i don't know, i have to run controller 48v 2000watts as far as i can. to find out how reliable is it.
for not more then 5000km , i have run and blow afew cyclone controller. They were orginal and expensive, 2 or 3times the cost of hua tong. sure i can't survive like that,, ha ha. so i have to test them and see the result and find out.

[Black6spdZ]

for everyone with one of these controllers, do not stress the fets too much.

the fets are stamped fb4410 instead of irfb4410, so this tells me the fets are fake

which is not really suprising considdering the cost of the controller

(i also have one btw)

Correct me if my calculations are wrong, but I measured 0.3 ohms between each of my phase windings on my 48v 1000w motor. So if your supply was a consistent 72v / 0.3 ohms the max current between each phase would be 240 amps. If this current was shared between 5 Fets such as this controller each would have to carry 48 amps.. well within a 96A tolerance... and thats if the power was held on 100%.. but it is pulsed and modulated so never would see that amount of current.. besides the controller will power down the motor if it detects its stalled anyway.

[wesnewell]

for everyone with one of these controllers, do not stress the fets too much.

the fets are stamped fb4410 instead of irfb4410, so this tells me the fets are fake

which is not really suprising considdering the cost of the controller

(i also have one btw)

They aren't fake, otherwise they wouldn't work. Check the International Rectifier website and you will find that IR is not part of the part number stamped on parts. Are these made by IR? Don't know. Don't care. Didn't look close enough. Wait, I've got one open.... Why yes they are The IR logo is below the part number. Not that it makes a bit of difference. They could still be fake.

[Black6spdZ]

According to the datasheets still, they can handle 380 amps with a pulsewidth of 20% as long as you keep the junction temp lower than 175d C. With active cooling I think the controller would long outlive the motor windings!

[bobale]

Well as they are cheap, you may as well try 24S just for the fun of it, but I gess both FETs and caps won't that long on that high voltage. Even if you charge your LiPos to 4.1V you'll be still dangerously close to max rated voltage for both components.

BTW, just ordered one

[nieles]

They aren't fake, otherwise they wouldn't work. Check the International Rectifier website and you will find that IR is not part of the part number stamped on parts. Are these made by IR? Don't know. Don't care. Didn't look close enough. Wait, I've got one open.... Why yes they are The IR logo is below the part number. Not that it makes a bit of difference. They could still be fake.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655&hilit=counterfeit

please read the first 2 pages of this thread. there is a statement there are no fb4110 fets produced by IR.
i know this is about 4410 fets, and the other thread is about 4110 fets. but the same story applies for the 4410 fets i think

what the difference is, they probably will not handle the current they are rated for in the specsheet

Correct me if my calculations are wrong, but I measured 0.3 ohms between each of my phase windings on my 48v 1000w motor. So if your supply was a consistent 72v / 0.3 ohms the max current between each phase would be 240 amps. If this current was shared between 5 Fets such as this controller each would have to carry 48 amps.. well within a 96A tolerance... and thats if the power was held on 100%.. but it is pulsed and modulated so never would see that amount of current.. besides the controller will power down the motor if it detects its stalled anyway.

the current is shared by 2 fets. (i think on the high side)
the current is shared by 3 fets on the low side (or the other way around)

as an example:
the current goes from the + of the battery to the high side fets(phase A)
the current goes through the motor coils
the current goes from the low side fets (on phase B) to the battery -

this is 1 step from the 6 step commutation in a brushless controller.

[wesnewell]

I'm not wasting any more time on this fake or not fake fet crap because I really don't care one way or the other. What I do know is that it will handle over 100V input from the battery pack because I've put over 100V on it. No ones twisting your arm to buy one.

[Black6spdZ]

They aren't fake, otherwise they wouldn't work. Check the International Rectifier website and you will find that IR is not part of the part number stamped on parts. Are these made by IR? Don't know. Don't care. Didn't look close enough. Wait, I've got one open.... Why yes they are The IR logo is below the part number. Not that it makes a bit of difference. They could still be fake.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10655&hilit=counterfeit

please read the first 2 pages of this thread. there is a statement there are no fb4110 fets produced by IR.
i know this is about 4410 fets, and the other thread is about 4110 fets. but the same story applies for the 4410 fets i think

what the difference is, they probably will not handle the current they are rated for in the specsheet

Correct me if my calculations are wrong, but I measured 0.3 ohms between each of my phase windings on my 48v 1000w motor. So if your supply was a consistent 72v / 0.3 ohms the max current between each phase would be 240 amps. If this current was shared between 5 Fets such as this controller each would have to carry 48 amps.. well within a 96A tolerance... and thats if the power was held on 100%.. but it is pulsed and modulated so never would see that amount of current.. besides the controller will power down the motor if it detects its stalled anyway.

the current is shared by 2 fets. (i think on the high side)
the current is shared by 3 fets on the low side (or the other way around)

as an example:
the current goes from the + of the battery to the high side fets(phase A)
the current goes through the motor coils
the current goes from the low side fets (on phase B) to the battery -

this is 1 step from the 6 step commutation in a brushless controller.

I believe you are correct sir.. first half of the cycle the perm mags are attracted by two FETs then attracted by three.. this is ok because the pulsewidth is halfed again.. we can still draw 380 amps per fet with 20% DC. Lets find if the M1-M3 contacts have power adjustments or regen cabailities.

[iovaykind]

+1 on the m1-m3 capabilities. who's been pioneering these testings?

[iovaykind]

Any ideas on high voltage regen also?

[Black6spdZ]

Here we go guys.. did some testing tonight with the bike flipped upside down and found a few things...
pad M2 to ground is low power mode.. I'm guessing about 60% from the speed decrease at WOT
pad X is regen braking.. with wheel spinning WOT and ground this pin voltage jumped higher than batteries resting voltage and wheel came to a pretty quick hault
grounding pads DS and SL just seem to disable the motor.. like a kill switch
ground pad SX seems to function like another low power mode like M2
pad M1, M3 and DS dont appear to have any function

had to swap U and V phase wires and V and W hall wires to get the motor to run correctly

[iovaykind]

M2 is low power mode, sweet!
How come later on in the post you said M2 doesn't have function? I think you meant M3?

[jonathanm]

pad M1, M2 and DS dont appear to have any function

You mean M3, right? good info, thanks for checking that out.....

[Black6spdZ]

sorry.. typo.. yes M3 doesnt have a function.. M2 is low power mode

[wesnewell]

Thanks Black6spdZ. The way you swapped hall and phase wires through me until I noticed that U and V phase are yellow and green, and W and V hall wires are also yellow and green. There are lots of other pads. Did you try any of them? Also, what size battery pack were you using when you tested regen, and how much did the voltage jump? Looks like I'm going to have to dig up some more toggle switches.