72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

wesnewell

100 GW
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
7,171
Location
Wylie, TX, USA
To a GM (Conhismotor, Yescomusa, others?) motor kit. Some connections are obvious. Ref:
http://zenid10.wordpress.com/2011/04/03/2109/

Following info added to get all info in one place.
NOTE: This only applies to the one version in subject line. It does not apply to other versions.
View attachment 1
Pad Wire color Function
X none engages regen braking when shorted to ground.
U blue hall/phase
V green hall/phase
W yellow hall/phase
SH white Brak-Hi eabs braking shorted to + batt.
SD green throttle sense
M1 none unk
M2 none Reduce throttle sensitivity, reduced power. Ground to enable.
M3 none unk
M4 y/w 60/120 degree motor.
CK none unk
DA none unk
Q none unk
L none unk may be reverse
A1 none unk
A2 none unk
A3 gray alarm plug
A4 none unk
A5 none unk
RXD none unk
YK none unk
ZL orange cruise, short to gnd to engage/disengage
DS none unk
SL none unk
XL none unk
YBS none unk
VDD red ignition wire
VDD blue/w alarm plug
S+ y/w alarm plug
XS none unk

Phase/Hall connections for different motors. *=verified.
Crystalyte motor wire color lining:

Controller: Motor:
HALL:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green
PHASE:
Yellow Blue
Green Green
Blue Yellow
_______________________
Ebikekit 9C motor wire color lining (around 2A unlaced freewheel at 44.4v):

Controller: Motor:
Hall:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

Phase:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

or

Controller: Motor:
Hall:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

Phase:
Yellow Blue
Green Green
Blue Yellow
_____________________
* Golden Motor 901/902/MagicPie.
Controller: Motor:
HALL:
Yellow Green
Green Yellow
Blue Blue

PHASE:
Yellow Green
Green Yellow
Blue Blue

* MXUS 3000 motor
Controller Motor
Hall
Y B
B Y
G G
Phase
Y B
B Y
G G

__________________
LVC mod
Default LVC is ~62V. Default resistor value is 1200 ohm. SMD 1201 resistor to left of red rectangle in photo below. To lower LVC, you will have to replace this resistor with one of higher value thus increasing resistance across the circuit. To raise LVC, you have to lower the value. You can do this by installing another parallel resistor where the red triangle is. I installed a 0-11k variable there and adjusted it untill LVC was 88V for my 24s battery pack. With the added resistor in parallel, overall resistance was ~780 ohm.
LVCmod.JPG
I will add to this as more info becomes available. Thanks to all that has furnished info for this.
 
No one huh. I finally got my connectors in and put some bullets on the phase wires and an XT60 for power. Just hooked up the 2 power leads since I'm not sure about the little red wire. Anyway after building a battery cable and connecting 48v power to it I don't even get a spark. Will try 74V later, but thought I'd at least get a spark with 48V. I'm kinda flying blind here, so any help would be appreciated.
 
I have a different controller and motor, but when a little red wire is provided, it is usually used to turn on the controller and is separate from the battery power. The purpose is to allow you to use it as a on/off switch for the controller without having to disconnect the battery.
 
OlderThanDirt said:
I have a different controller and motor, but when a little red wire is provided, it is usually used to turn on the controller and is separate from the battery power. The purpose is to allow you to use it as a on/off switch for the controller without having to disconnect the battery.
That makes sense, but but what does it hook too, battery + also? I'll give that a try I guess. Well, I hooked it up to the motor, sensor and phase, plugged it into 75V and still no spark. Throttle connector is female, and so is the one from controller. Will have to do some jury rigging. Circuit diagram with functions sure would be nice. Sooner or later I'll either get it working or give up on it.:)
 
Success. At least looks like basic success. Had to make 3 strips of metal to connect the 2 female throttle cables. Wire the little red wire to positive (it's basically an ignition switch). With that and the throttle hooked up, I get a big spark at 19s when I bypass the pre-charge resistor. A tap on the throttle starts the motor. It's in my living room right now. Will take it out a little later. Want to run it a while on the 500W motor before I move it to the 1000W. Will post back after I give it a test ride.
 
Success is short lived. It runs, but something is wrong. It moans and groans when given throttle, doesn't have a lot of pick up, and probably never gets over 20mph and never seems smooth. I tried changing phase wires around, but that just made it worse. The only other thing I could think of would be that the motor is 60 degree and the controller is wired for 120 degree. Anyone have any clues? Anyone know if the GM motor is 60 degree or 120 degree?
 
wesnewell said:
Success is short lived. It runs, but something is wrong. It moans and groans when given throttle, doesn't have a lot of pick up, and probably never gets over 20mph and never seems smooth. I tried changing phase wires around, but that just made it worse. The only other thing I could think of would be that the motor is 60 degree and the controller is wired for 120 degree. Anyone have any clues? Anyone know if the GM motor is 60 degree or 120 degree?
It's hard to say without knowing more about the type of motor you use. At the end of the day I think it's a case of trial and error. It may be the 60/120 degree phase issue, as you suspect. However without the 60/120 jump wires I'm not sure how or even if you could change the phase to switch to 60 degree mode to see if that improves things. Phase wire mismatches - as you say also - could be behind this, in which case it's simply a case of trying all six combinations to see if any of them fixes it. It's also possible that your throttle is at fault, or somehow incompatible. Perhaps you could switch it out and try another.

Sorry I can't be of more help, it's hard to tell exactly what kind of controller you have or what type of motors it's compatible with.
 
Thanks for the reply. The controller I have is just like the 72V Generic controller you have. Same board inside (CA08 X8M06AD_P04.1). It's just wired a little different and doesn't have the phase change wires (H in your picture) coming out. And I can't tell which pads they are going to on your board. I know they are both yellow wires and I suspect one is going to ground and the other to M3 on the board by looking at your picture of the board, but would like to confirm it. OR confirm the phase angle of my motor, which is a GoldenMotor HBS-48V500W.
 
It lives!!!!
All I needed to do was swap the Y and G phase and hall wires. Runs great and fast even on 19s. Can't tell how fast as I don't have a speedometer on this bike. So for ~$37 shipped, and a little work, I've got a decent 72V controller. Next phase of testing is to go to 23s and test the cruise control. Hope to get this done today.
 
snellemin said:
Can the controller run in sensorless mode?
For $37 shipped from China, I kind of doubt it. There are zero instructions or any other info with it other than what's on the label, which is 72V-1500W, 40+/-2A, 120 degree, 1.1-4.2V (assume throttle V), and N15. Anything else on label is Chinese I assume, other than Hua Tong.
 
Screams at 23s. Guessing about 40mph. Need the bike computers I've got on order. Cruise control works. Momentary closure sets and/or releases it. Tapping throttle also releases it. Motor stayed cool although they were short runs at top speed. I think that's about it. Will move it to the 1000W motor in near future. Will it hit 50mph on it? It does 35+ now on 14s.
 
As there is no any documentation provided with this controller, does it maybe have regerative braking?
 
bobale said:
As there are no any documentation provided with this controller, does it maybe have regerative braking?
If there is, I haven't found it. There's no docs with it, although there is info on it on the internet, but not a lot. I think I covered what you need to know to hook it up here.
 
Thanks for that, I might be buying it later this year.
 
wesnewell said:
It lives!!!!
All I needed to do was swap the Y and G phase and hall wires.
:D Ah! So you needed to swap the hall wires round too? I'll have to remember that one!
 
Zenid said:
wesnewell said:
It lives!!!!
All I needed to do was swap the Y and G phase and hall wires.
:D Ah! So you needed to swap the hall wires round too? I'll have to remember that one!
Yep. swapped both phase and hall yellow and green. I lucked out really. Followed a guide for Lyens 18 fet controller for the GM magic pie and started with it. It turned out to be the same for this controller and a GM motor. There's a possibility of 64 combinations total which would really suck to have to try one at a time.
 
Moved this controller over to other bike with 48V 1000W motor last night, or I should say early this morning. Took it for a test ride at 23s (96V). The power is awesome, almost scary. If I didn't weight 270lbs I'd swear it would do a wheely from the stop. Still not sure how fast it is as the speedo starts getting flaky at 40mph. It's faster than I want to ride it for any time. Braking from that speed with my weight is not fast. Thought I was going to burn the brake pads up. Anyway, I done for now.
 
hmmmm........now you've got me confused.........

I was just about settled on a crystalyte and a Lyen controller for my next build - now I am really considering going for this setup instead.....
 
I don't know what you are looking for, but with this controller and 23s on the 500W motor is plenty powerful and a lot faster. I thought about buying one of Lyens 72V controllers but just couldn't bring myself to spend more on a motor controller than I spent on a whole kit. Best $37.62 I ever spent.
 
wesnewell said:
I don't know what you are looking for, but with this controller and 23s on the 500W motor is plenty powerful and a lot faster. I thought about buying one of Lyens 72V controllers but just couldn't bring myself to spend more on a motor controller than I spent on a whole kit. Best $37.62 I ever spent.

I don't know what I am looking for either, lol.....just more of a buzz I guess.....Lyens controller appeals because I can tweak the software and play around wit the settings....ultimately though, I have a bike now that is fast enough for pretty much any kind of commuting, I just need to bump up the Ah. For my next build I just want to do something more....interesting...I also like finding ways to do things on the cheap, so I would find a lot more satisfaction getting 40mph out of your setup than getting 40mph out of a tried and tested (and more expensive) Xlyte setup.....
 
I too wanted a cheap 72v+ controller. But I ended up with Lyen controller for a few reasons.
I wanted sensorless and high speed capability.
I wanted the CA to be able to just plug into the controller.
I wanted to controller to be able to hook up to a pc if desired.
I wanted to be able to use the cruise control switch.

The sensored function was cool, but I just didn't like the idea of failing tiny sensored wires in the middle of my commute and disabling the controller.

The 500W motor screamed on 22S, but got pretty warm in the Texas heat. I almost bought the newer crystalite motor, until I started seeing pics of the build quality.
 
auraslip said:
Isn't it awesome how cheap those are? I just wish there was some damn information about them.
Any one know of a source of cheap infenion controllers?
What info do you need? Mine works like a charm. I've never opened it up and don't know what chip set it uses, and really don't care. Maybe it uses Infineon chip set, maybe not. Who cares, it works, and does all I wanted, which was cruise control and up to 100V.
 
Well... we spent awhile trying to get the LVC down so we could run them at lower voltages.

They're not infenion, and I can't find a pin out for the MCU anywhere. It'd be nice to know how to do all the fun stuff ya know?
 
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