Been working on this again. Ended up making a make do jig out of wood. Seem to do the trick. Have a rolling frame now. There is a few gussets to be made to reinforce the frame, but other than that this is how it should look. Might shorten it a bit seems quite long but I have not mounted the motor yet which will take up some deck space. I locked the rear suspension in position at the moment. Have not made a tool to get the poly in yet. Frame is a bit big to get it a press now. Here is a few pictures of where I am at.
It is definitely "super sized" but overall proportions look good to my eye. I'm very curious how the front sus works? 'should eliminate dive under front braking, yes? That's a helpful thing with standup scooters with so little ground clearance to start with.
New York, there's no law against being annoying...
Thanks Ykick. Not entirely sure of the technicals about the front suspension. I used this style because it was a single sided swing arm, where I am basing this on a GoPed I felt this would be best as they are supported single sided aswell.
Made and welded the gussets on today. Ground the weld of from the tube to the box and welded again as I wasn't happy with the penetration or look of the welds. Also will be grinded the weld of off the swing arm. This I will take to work to get welded as my set at home just didn't seem to put enough heat into the swing arm shaft.
Been busy on the drive side of the scooter. Looking at mounting the rear pulley and starting to make a motor mount.
i am going to mount the motor on a 10mm aluminium plate, which will then bolt to an adjustable steel motor mount welded to the frame.
Since the scooter is a single sided swing arm, the only way I am going to be able to mount the rear pulley is by drilling and tapping the wheel nuts, and mounted of off them.
the drive is going to be 50mm wide 8mm pitch HTD belt. The ratio is 1 to 4. The rear sprocket is 112 tooth which is a particularly large size sprocket. I am using a cast iron pulley as a representation, whilst an aluminium pulley is being made. As I want the send the cast iron pulley back I havnt machined it, so I have just place the pulley hub on top of the studs. However the studs will actually sit 30mm inside the hub bringing the pulley 30mm closer to the wheel. Leaving only 3mm clearance in the centre at it tightest point.
Thanks for all the comments. Glad my build is getting some interest.
Been working on making a hub for the rear wheel. I decided that a 50mm belt is not really a good idea. The cost to manufacture an aluminium pulley is too much. I have decided to go to chain instead.
The hub I made uses a phosphor bronze bush which is bolted onto the shaft of the rear wheel. A sleeve from the hub with a bearing inside is tightly fit over the bush centering the hub. The sprocket will be bored to match the 60mm recess on the other side of the rod. It is all assemble on precision spacer via the tapped heads of the wheel nuts.
I have yet to get the sprockets delivered will only need to bore the out to 60mm then drill the bolt holes. The sprocket will then centre itself on the hub which runs in line with the wheel bearings, as all three bearings are on the same shaft.
Not decided on controller... But expect it will be 400amp Kelly. Batteries will be Lipo, turnigy. Using 8 series packs, in 2p8s configuration to give around 60v. Still working on the drive, got the hub and rear sprocket mounted. I am going to have to guide the chain either over or under the suspension knuckle as it looks like it is in the way. I am now working on making the steel motor mount which will weld to the frame and then the aluminium motor plate will bolt to it. Few pictures of where I am at.
Welded together the motor mount today. Should be no problem with this, looks pretty strong. I need to notch the motor mount so that it can go closer to the knuckle. I need to notch it the same angle as the bend, this will allow me to loose most of the bend inside the motor mount. The frame should curve around the motor. There will be several gussets reinforcing the welds once complete. Here is a few pictures of progress.
Thanks for the comments. The battery set-up is going to be 8s lipo in a 2s4p configuration. Giving 20AH at around 60v. Going to be using a 400 amp kelly controller.
Made the notch in the rear of the motor mount today. Hopefully this should line up. The notch fits the 50mm pipe perfectly but I will have to wait til tomorrow to try it on the frame. The notch is now the datum for the front sprocket. I made lots of measurements to work out the rear sprocket position and then tranfer to the front by using the centre of the frame as a datum. Got to be careful that the notch is not too deep otherwise it will interfere with the motor aswell. Being unable to bring the scooter with me I have just relied on the accuracy of my measurements and marking out. So may well be making the motor mount again
Welded the motor mount to the frame today. Am happy with the position, the motor is now as far back on the frame as I can expect to get it. Had to raise the motor slightly of the frame by about 10mm to clear the bend so the notch which fit tight on straight pipe. Made some gussets to weld in the gap and to support it in all positions. Here is a few pictures of where I am at.
Tried the Go-Ped board on my frame for size. Seems to fit nicely. Will either use a new goped deck, or at least make one using my deck as a template. Certainly start looking quite Go-Pedy with the deck on, which is good as my inspiration was my original Go-Ped hence why I went through the trouble of making everything single sided swing arms, just like my Go-ped.
Been deciding which way to guide the chain through the frame, it either has to go under or over the suspension knuckle. The chain looks far betting going under the suspension knuckle, but being underneath the pivot point of the suspension does this mean that the chain will be fighting the suspension when it pivots?? Or is it perfectly fine to route the chain underneath the pivot point. Any opinions??
My feeling that it would be better to route it over the knuckle so that when it pivots it does not tension again the load side of tha chain.
Either way, having anything that prevents a straight chainline across the load side of the chain is going to put a lot of stress on your idler, whether you do it above or below the suspension pivot.
Doing it below the pivot does at least increase wrap on your drive and driven sprockets, so you get a minimal advantage out of it. Doing it above it decreases chain wrap a bit, making a minimal disadvantage.
Your idler will still have to have a tensioner that reacts along with suspension movement to keep the chain taut enough. I don't know how your suspension reacts to say which way might be better regarding that, other than to say the further your suspension moves then the more wrap you will get with it under and the less wrap with it over, at max bump.
The plan is to go under the knuckle, and have a sprocket coming off the knuckle guiding the chain down. I will then tension the slack side of the chain outwards with large spring, towards the ground. I may have a third sprocket just in behind the drive sprocket to ensure wrap around is maintain when the slack chain is pushed outwards by the tensioner.
The wheels are going to get new tires and also fresh black powder coat once the frame is finished and ready for powder coat, frame colour is probably going to be bright orange.
Received the handlebars today, so tried them for size. Few pictures of where I am at.