Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:58 pm

Very very little leaks out of the axles. I guess you could say the wires are possibly a bit wet and that's it That may be from before though. As long as you only have enough oil in the hub to fill it say to about a third- so the oil level is well below the axle, you shouldn't have any dramas. Having a little vent hole is an absolute must. I tried it without and within a minute of testing, oil started to seep out of the axle, following the air as it expanded inside and escaped.

When I replace the stator in this motor, I'll seal the axle properly from the inside and then refill it with oil. Then we shall see how much power these little MAC motors can handle... :twisted: Or then again maybe not- don't want to kill the clutch! I also have a 9C 8x8 which is going to get oil cooling and push lots of power through it. The plan for the mac is eventually to go in a custom frame as a mid drive.

I drilled a small hole (1mm ish) near the axle. I drilled from outside to inside, with the drill angled so that the hole goes from the axis towards the circumference. My logic was that when spinning, any oil that comes near the vent hole will be flung back inside the hub...seems to be working so far.

I'll try and chuck a couple of photos up- not terribly exciting though as it's a sealed hub! I did try a filtered air cooling system but that did nothing so the holes are blanked up with plastic bungs glued in. One of the bungs has a hole and rubber stopper for filling the hub with oil.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby teklektik » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:06 pm

It would be interesting to try running a MAC/BMC with oil and a full set of the steel replacement gears. Normally only one steel gear is used and they tend to eat the outer ring gear (steel on steel - dry). With some effective lube in there and meaningful heat removal, this upgrade might become substantially more successful. Lyen sells these for $25.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:16 pm

teklektik wrote:Here's a little déjà vu from last month.... :) Keyne's DH Comp Build - now with liquid cooled HX35!.
/doi/abs/10.1201/9781420003840.ch2]Handbook of Lubrication and Tribology[/url]. On the face of it, ATF looks like it may have been a good choice for this prototype.



I did follow this with interest. I still think the flooded or splash design is better as the windings lose heat directly to the oil. People go on about trouble with sealing the motor to stop oil leaks but it ain't hard. Both covers get cleaned thoroughly then sealed with proper automotive silicone. The axle bearings should be sealed already but if they aren't you can replace the bearings with sealed ones, or even just use oil seals. You'd have to machine a recess in the covers so I guess it's a bit more complicated....unless you have a lathe in which case it's real easy....

Seal up the axle with more silicone, put a vent hole in for a splash design and you're done. If the motor is totally flooded then you need to have some form of vent still. If it's a circulating system then it gets more complicated, especially getting the pipes out of the hub- involves machining the brake side cover for a much bigger axle bearing and making up a spacer to fit on the axle that the new bearing sits on, with holes in the spacer for coolant pipes, even fat phase wire etc. With this design you could even make a solid axle but we're talking serious mods here.

My simple closed system splash design works well for now and doesn't take any special tools to do.

As for the steel gear- yes that might work but I think the new grey gears for the MAC are plenty strong. The next weak link will be the clutch.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby teklektik » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:17 pm

andynogo wrote:I drilled a small hole (1mm ish) near the axle. I drilled from outside to inside, with the drill angled so that the hole goes from the axis towards the circumference. My logic was that when spinning, any oil that comes near the vent hole will be flung back inside the hub...seems to be working so far.

If there's a bit of room on the inside of the cover, an oil slinger could be affixed to the cover surrounding the bearing with the vent hole under the slinger. This is basically a thin sheet metal disc that does what it sounds like to keep oil away from a bearing and seal.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby bigmoose » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:18 pm

Yep don't use DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. It is hydroscopic, and will rust the snot out of everthing and likely strip paint and insulation. I have a gallon of DOT5 from the days of my Porsche.... a long, long time ago. It is silicon based and very, very thin. It has been filling the submersible pump in my wet metal bandsaw for 25 years now and working fine.

I would use ATF, Dextron III or Honda ATF first; then try the DOT5 silicon brake fluid if you had perceived problems with the first two.

I would be interested in seeing pictures of the planetaries in starter motors. Might be about the right torque rating...
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:22 pm

teklektik wrote:
andynogo wrote:I drilled a small hole (1mm ish) near the axle. I drilled from outside to inside, with the drill angled so that the hole goes from the axis towards the circumference. My logic was that when spinning, any oil that comes near the vent hole will be flung back inside the hub...seems to be working so far.

If there's a bit of room on the inside of the cover, an oil slinger could be affixed to the cover surrounding the bearing with the vent hole under the slinger. This is basically a thin sheet metal disc that does what it sounds like to keep oil away from a bearing and seal.


Could do- just like automotive engines of yesteryear- but no need to do this in my case as the vent hole isn't leaking. I think someone did have this issue- but I try to follow the KISS principle wherever possible! :D
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby teklektik » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:36 pm

andynogo wrote:...but I try to follow the KISS principle wherever possible! :D

Agreed! (Just saying that if weeping became an issue, a simple fix is in hand...)

andynogo wrote:The axle bearings should be sealed already but if they aren't you can replace the bearings with sealed ones, or even just use oil seals. You'd have to machine a recess in the covers so I guess it's a bit more complicated....unless you have a lathe in which case it's real easy....

I don't know how MACs are built but BMCs already have double lipped oil seals.

andynogo wrote:As for the steel gear- yes that might work but I think the new grey gears for the MAC are plenty strong. The next weak link will be the clutch

The BMC blue gears are very strong as well, but then, an important facet of the success of this strategy is pouring more power through the motor so gears will become an issue - if steel would run quiet and not degrade the ring gear, I would switch. As for the clutch, I have run with a frozen BMC clutch and the bike still coasts pretty freely in DD mode - even at 40mph. Just welding/epoxying (DP420) it up would not be a bad solution. I used to drive SAABs with freewheel clutches and they frequently blew up (operator abuse) - welding them up was the universal fix :)
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:48 pm

I'm pretty sure the mac has sealed bearings.

Good to hear that a lockup clutch didn't affect things too much. I must admit I don't do much freewheeling on my bike. It's wot most of the way!
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Hillhater » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:01 pm

..It was also very interesting to note that cruising at say ¾ throttle resulted in the temps going up- but as soon as I went to WOT at the same speed, the temperature started coming down again and quite rapidly.


does anyone have an explanation for this effect ??

Planetary gears:
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:16 pm

I'm sure someone more intelligent than me will explain. I thought that it was to do with the motor operating at lower efficiency (more heat) at lower rpms, but in my case it seems to be the same rpm and different throttle settings. Who knows.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby fechter » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:32 pm

It may have to do with more air moving past the outside casing at higher speeds or the oil is pumping around the insides better at full speed.

OK, don't use brake fluid. Thanks Bigmoose.

Here's some interesting info on silicone oil:
http://www.clearcoproducts.com/standard_pure_silicones.html

"Clearco Low Viscosity Pure Silicone fluids are clear, colorless, and odorless
% linear polydimethylsiloxanes (CAS# 63148-62-9) They range in viscosity from 5cSt to 20cSt (centistokes) and are characterized by their low pour points, low surface tensions, low viscosity change at temperature (VTC), excellent lubricity, high dielectric strength, high damping action, wide service temperature range and inertness to virtually all substates.

Clearco Low Viscosity Silicone Fluids also possess high resistance to shear, high water repellency, low vapor pressure, and low reactivity. They are excellent lubricants for plastics, foams and rubbers. Due to their low pour points and low V.T.C. (viscosity change at temperature), they are excellent choices for low temperature bath fluids

Properties:

•Low viscosity polydimethylsiloxane fluids..slightly thicker than water
•Low pour points (as low as -100°C)
•Excellent Low Temperature Stability
•More Thermally stable than the Super-low viscosities
•Low surface tension fluids (high spreadability)
•Low viscosity change at temperature (low VTC)
•Inert to virtually all o-rings, gaskets, seals and valves *
•High Dielectric Strength
•INCI Name: Dimethicone
•California VOC Exempt
* not recommended for silicone rubber due to possibility of swelling

Hmm... not sure what it would do to silicone glue?

Definitely need some kind of vent or air expanding with temperature will pressurize the housing and force a leak.
Oil will be good for those solid steel gears, or any gears for that matter.
Power steering fluid might be another possibility. Based on my garage testing, it seems to be a little thinner than ATF.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:15 pm

Many or even most ps fluids are ATF in a different bottle with a higher price tag.

ATF is a good choice for hubs as its cheap enough and easily available. Also easy to spot a leak being red. The silicone based oils are usually a more expensive and more difficult to find- or just use dot5 brake fluid as mentioned. I'll be sticking with ATF- doesn't attack silicone either.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby johnrobholmes » Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:17 pm

I'm gonna have to give ATF a shot in one of my MAC hubs. Heck, i'll just drill one hole and see if it leaks out a stock motor.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:59 pm

johnrobholmes wrote:I'm gonna have to give ATF a shot in one of my MAC hubs. Heck, i'll just drill one hole and see if it leaks out a stock motor.


Oh, I soooo wanna see before and after photos of that, especially your clothes... :lol:

After you've done that you might want to seal those side covers up.... :wink:
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby teklektik » Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:03 am

andynogo wrote:ATF is a good choice for hubs as its cheap enough and easily available. Also easy to spot a leak being red.

Yep - though I might be tempted to use one of the low viscosity brews from Red Line.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby johnrobholmes » Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:36 am

andynogo wrote:
johnrobholmes wrote:I'm gonna have to give ATF a shot in one of my MAC hubs. Heck, i'll just drill one hole and see if it leaks out a stock motor.


Oh, I soooo wanna see before and after photos of that, especially your clothes... :lol:

After you've done that you might want to seal those side covers up.... :wink:



Bah, I think the wet paint during assembly is enough! I'll be sure to wear eye protection, I bet it will be like spin art.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Sat Mar 24, 2012 10:05 am

Bit difficult to see, but here's a couple of shots of the oil holes. The first one is the black plastic bung I used to cover the air cooling holes. It has a hole drilled in the middle which is filled with a rubber bung. Oil goes in here.

The second photo is not very clear but you can just make out the vent hole through the gap in the disc- just to the right and up from the rotation arrow on the disc. The red drip of atf on the cover near the axle end is from overfilling it slightly this time- when the vent hole is down and the wheel's not turning, it just seeps out of the hole very slowly. Not enough to drip on the floor yet.

Image

Image
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby zombiess » Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:07 pm

I can't believe it, but you guys are actually making me want to try this myself now. I like the simplicity and no mess of just venting the covers which I have done on my 9C 2806 and plan to vent some covers on one of the Hubzilla motors I'm going to attempt to dump 20KWish into. I'm curious as to which will perform better. I know the holes I put in my 9C 2806 made a huge difference in cooling and allowed me to ride it much harder for longer before it would heat soak. Even with lots of abuse the windings still look new and the motor performs great and will most likely be used in a project for my wife which is how my race bike started in the first place LOL, sorry hun.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Kingfish » Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:35 pm

Mechanically-speaking, the method of oil splashing around inside the motor is very common for lawn mower engines: Of the two most common methods, the bottom of the piston has a simple blade protruding about an inch or two that dips into the oil basin at the bottom of the down-stroke, splashing the oil, atomizing it into vapor in the process, and ultimately lubricating the interior. The second method uses a lobe on the crankshaft that drives a spring-loaded plunger which pumps oil up through the piston via the journal.

Good lightweight motor oil should work fine, probably SAE 5W-20. Synthetic is optional. Most engine oil has a limitation of about 185°F/85°C wherein further rise will cause it to separate into degrees of paraffin.

Since the default cooling method is radiation (air) and conduction (axle), adding oil allows for convection which naturally boosts the cooling ability at the cost of reduction in spinning efficiency; there will be drag. Light oil though should greatly reduce the effect.

I am saddened to learn of this thread though AFTER I had my hubs drilled to vent water. However, a small vent hole near the axle is still possible, and I like the idea that oil is sloshing around to keep moisture away from my delicate unplated stators. At least they will have varnish. :wink:

Good thread, good ideas; thanks guys – this is very useful!
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby Spicerack » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:15 pm

Kingfish wrote:I am saddened to learn of this thread though AFTER I had my hubs drilled to vent water. However, a small vent hole near the axle is still possible, and I like the idea that oil is sloshing around to keep moisture away from my delicate unplated stators. At least they will have varnish. :wink:

Good thread, good ideas; thanks guys – this is very useful!
~KF


My 9C has seriously drilled covers for air cooling. I'll be filling the larger holes with perspex discs epoxied in. That way I'll be able to see the oil level easily! The smaller holes I'll just fill with epoxy like I did on this MAC motor.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby John in CR » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:57 pm

Smaller geared hubbies which are so thermally limited already, have a fast spinning rotor that needs cooling, and gears that like lube...sure...MWKeefer has been doing it for years. I seem to recall that he tested it on DD's too, and the efficiency hit made it not worth it. On direct drives I'll let you guys be the guinea pigs, since mine don't overheat and enough oil to reach the stator means enough to reach the fragile hall wires. Hopefully some of you will also run some comparative wh/mile numbers before and after. In the meantime, I'm focusing on more efficient motors, since having half the heat to reject is a better solution.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby flathill » Sat Mar 24, 2012 10:48 pm

John in CR wrote: I seem to recall that he tested it on DD's too, and the efficiency hit made it not worth it.


Do you recall why? Could the increased drag be that much of a hit? Remember the cooler you keep the windings the less losses....Your 93% motor wont measure 93% hot. Are you the same John from diyaudio?

http://www.stereophile.com/reference/1106hot/index.html
Image
Fig.1 Relative resistance vs temperature for copper (blue trace), aluminum (red), and silver (purple).

For drag racing analuminum wind motor might win (not likely, depends on winding to iron ratio and some other stuff) Aluminum windings can also be smashed tighter than copper without cutting the insulation so what you give up in conductivity you main gain in fill factor (assuming round wire) so instead of copper having a 20% advantage its more like 10 real world (not counting volume)
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby fechter » Sun Mar 25, 2012 1:16 am

A somewhat simpler test would be to measure the no-load, full speed amps before and after adding oil. My guess is the oil will increase the no-load current quite a bit. There's no way it will make the motor more efficient, but will allow it to run at a higher power rating without failing. It would be nice to know exactly how much additional drag it causes. It may cause only a small reduction in range.

It should be much less significant on a direct drive motor as the velocity of the rotor is much slower.
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby John in CR » Sun Mar 25, 2012 1:19 am

flathill wrote:
John in CR wrote: I seem to recall that he tested it on DD's too, and the efficiency hit made it not worth it.


Do you recall why? Could the increased drag be that much of a hit? Remember the cooler you keep the windings the less losses....Your 93% motor wont measure 93% hot. Are you the same John from diyaudio?


Speaker building was a hobby that seems a lifetime ago, though just 5 years or so ago, so it depends which John there.

Regarding the 93% efficient motors, there's exactly 0% chance oil is going in there as it is likely to mess up the series/parallel switching.

If people are so interested in cooling their motors, why don't they run smaller wheels and adjust voltage back to the same speed? On top of the greater efficiency resulting from the lower torque requirement, they'll also get much better cooling from the higher rpm. 90%+ who ventilate don't make an effort to optimize it, and a spinning pizza pan with some big round holes in it certainly doesn't make much of a fan blade.

The issue isn't whether a liquid cools better than air, since that's obvious. For me the question is whether it's more effective overall compared to a substantial fresh air flow, and in determining effectiveness you have to consider increased drag, risk of the more direct heat transfer through the magnets, the overall rate of heat rejection, etc. In comparing to ventilated you've got to consider that if you do it right and achieve flow that the air carries heat out with it, which totally bypasses the step of outer shell to the environment.

Here are my concerns about the oil in a DD approach:
1. Drag- The decrease in top speed should give some idea.
2. Halls- I haven't seen a response when I asked before.
3. Magnets- Is there more risk of heat damage to magnets with such a direct route for heat?
4. Optimum fill- This might be the hardest to determine, since at speed the oil is forced to the perimeter
by centrifugal force. I'd think just enough to just touch the lamination edges at speed would minimize drag
while maintaining a good thermal pathway. The best fill might even be even less so at low speed where efficiency
is low during acceleration that the oil falls onto the stator. Then at high speed and high efficiency where drag
if touching the stator would be great, centrifugal force pins the oil to the perimeter offering no drag at all and
almost no cooling effect, but it's not really needed anyway. OR since it's the windings that are the heat source
does the fill need to be much greater to fill to the copper even at speed despite the greatly increased drag.
5. Erosion- Obviously that moving oil is going to wear on parts not designed for a liquid. Other than the hall wires,
I'd be concerned most about the potential for the oil to get under the edges of the epoxy holding the magnets
and whether it could do harm getting between the laminations especially starting at the edges facing the magnets.

On top of these concerns I don't have a good visualization of the oil's behavior at speed with it inside the rotor, a short spinning cylinder, and having the stator, a very coarse stationary object, in such close proximate all around. If the liquid gets turned into a fine spray that would be ideal and greatly reduce drag.

Heat problems have causes that liquid cooling won't solve, so better cooling is just a bandaid. Addressing the cause, which is typically over-gearing or over-saturating the stator, is the real solution. How else could one of the biggest loads on the forum zip around at 50mph+, and climb mountains for over 3 years with a sealed motor that is very little different than those most DD hubs? I'm not even talking about recent addition to the stable of the 93% peak efficiency hubbie I'm still testing. Forget the western medicine approach and cure the problem instead of living with it and using bandaids that come with risks and compromises. Shoot, I don't even run a temperature sensor. Strap a 100lb backpack on most of these guys backs and let's see how their ebikes perform both on the highway and in the mountains. Liquid cooling won't be enough to keep up. :mrgreen:

John

PS- Regarding drag, my son swears he feels a bit of drag with the motor I ventilated that he runs on his ebike. I can feel it too when I ride it, and if I had to guess I'd say it's about 50W of fan blade resistance. That's air, so just imagine the drag of a liquid at the speeds we run.
Last edited by John in CR on Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
John in CR
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Re: Oil cooling your hub- NOT snake oil!

Postby John in CR » Sun Mar 25, 2012 1:24 am

fechter wrote:It should be much less significant on a direct drive motor as the velocity of the rotor is much slower.


I think it's the opposite. MWKeefer did a lot of experimenting, and I think it's just enough fill in the geared hubbie that the smooth outside of the motor bell housing just touches the oil. Plus spinning the opposite direction is likely to create more of a spray effect. With a DD you have just the tiny air gap now filled with oil and the other odd shaped parts of the stator with lots more surface area.

Detailed results will be interesting, just not with my motors. :twisted:

John
John in CR
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