bigmoose wrote:It is good to see more people discover and document the benefit of oil cooling a hub. I predict it will become the standard in the near future.
Pioneering work was done in this area by Bowling Green State University (BGSU) Professor Anthony Polumbo in BGSU Paper "PowerDenseElectricMotor-BGSU-01566299" (0-7803-91 45-4/05/$20.00©)2005 IEEE) where they increased the power of a NEMA 215 Frame induction motor used to power a bus from approximately 10Hp to 100Hp. Not all the improvements were from oil cooling, but it sure enabled much of the increase in "Power Density."
Sadly the Electric Vehicle Institute at BGSU has been dismantled and the staff scattered... right when we on the cusp of electric propulsion. They had a great staff and great vision, just too early for stable funding...
GCinDC wrote:... as the seal on the disk side blew and a bulb of oil appeared.
GCinDC wrote:... if oil covered my vent hole, there would be too much pressure in there.
teklektik wrote:GCinDC wrote:... as the seal on the disk side blew and a bulb of oil appeared.
What does this mean exactly? Did the lip/retaining spring deform and actually blow out or did it just leak?
The oil seal lips are very easy to damage...
pwbset wrote:thank you SO much for that "how to" video.
hjns wrote:Does the Clyte also have a separate hall pcb? I will cover my halls / hall pcb with silicon muck.
GCinDC wrote:what are the oil seal lips? sounds like those black rubber things that seat into the sidecover around the axle from the outside? i thought those contained the coil that everyone says cuts the wire, and i considered removing it, but i saw no evidence of the coil, and chose instead to use a wire tie to keep the wire away from that rubber.
i thought i read before that the bearing was going to have to be the barrier... now that i think about it, i should have probably caulked around the bearing.
hjns wrote:GCinDC wrote:i'm thinking 150C is the absolute limit, for the halls, varnish etc. i have the sense that the oil will take the motor much longer to heat up, but eventually it will get hot, and probably stay hot.
We can all predict that the oilcooled motor will take longer to get to 90oC. However, it will be very interesting to see how fast it cools down again as compared to the aircooled motor.
thanks for the ATF RTV sealant. that looks great. and i will not be chinzie with it...
how many times have you had yours open, dfar, after first oiling it?
dfar wrote:By "saturate"I mean when you first put the atf in the motor the stamped stator will "wick" up atf between the plates after some use. When the stator is "saturated" with atf fluid I find roughly 100ml of extra fluid works well to cool the motor and not have excessive atf leakage.
...So the initial input of oil should be more than after the motor has become "saturated". I think but this is all anecdotal
hjns wrote:Any thought on how quickly the motor returns to ambient when oiled?
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