Thanks Amberwolf for helping. I can get close to the 2200 ohms by series then.
The bike got me home using this exact pot but slowly if I recall correctly. The importer says it will not get to speed without the resistor & he was guessing the exact value as he had no access to his computer Friday night. I can get this info tomorrow night, Monday, by phone. I think this is day 5 of no go lessons.
I still need to use this pot when the new controllers arrive, as I did buy throttles. I have 15 or so here that can be repaired, minus the glued in ones. There are a variety, having differing shaped sensors. The correct Honeywell's can be had a week tomorrow from a local distributor. Maybe USA from Digikey in 10 piece lots.
I just retested all my controllers. Connections are : battery last; 3.3V feed on the throttle ground(black) & + on the green signal wire; lock (jumper loop)& still off for connecting power.
Verify voltage values, then connect meter to the motor leads, 0.0v & a correct reading. Now the lock loop on, reading is 39.4 on the motor leads. This is incorrect, as the 3.3v into the throttle controller connection should result in about 65% or 24v (3.3 over 5.0v).
Result is on 5 jc-116's, all are no good. If I recall correctly there is no amps backing the 39volts, wheel is very slow when suspended. If it is top speed instead then it will be hard on the internal freewheel & spokes.
The 2 pedal first controllers mention in my other piss-up thread are no good either, one has 39.4v on above test, other does nothing. Tried PF sensor installed & moving the magnet, N/S positions, blue leads connector on & off, all the possible combinations.
So I've destroyed some good controllers, 2 jc-116, 1 PF, 1 24v and unknown number of throttles. 116's were new, rest used but tested before scrapping the bikes. Positive here is I still have all my fuses I started with!
All over a broken throttle housing, I still have it, was glued so it has parts of housing. This could work by taping to the bar just so & the magnet/grip just so. Plus a method that prevents them parting away, as its the mag that stops runaway voltage.
A light just clicked, I have a throttle housing that has a large enough gap to place this sensor, it has a magnet on each end of the gap. I have a working 12V 200w 24amp controller from a kiddy bike to test on.
My mobility options are very limited now. Direct voltage options? I'm thinking to rewire a battery pack into 3 12v, use 3 relays and 3 low voltage switches for handlebar mounting/use. I can use a 4th relay thru the brake levers to cut out the 3 power relays. The 3 relay group is under 2 watts each, so 4-5 watts going thru the brake switches. Will the brake parts take it? For a week?
I have one switch that can run 2 relays, mounted on a Magura hall type throttle. Disassembled it & found an impressive 2 position bar style contact, lots of contact surface.
Can you imagine my costs if I had BLDC parts?
Pedaling is not an option for transport should you wonder on that. Whatever you do ,don't "say you're lazy". Big grin on that, but thin ice.