if you spun the axle, and are having this problem, i'd be willing to bet you've shorted (or at least cut) some wires, most likely halls. they're easy enough to cut w/o spinning the axle.
unplug the halls connector. switch your multimeter to check for resistance, ideally with a beep if you mm does that. touch them together to test you've got 0 ohms. then touch each of the contacts with one probe and the motor with the other. if it ever goes to zero and/or beeps, you've gotta replace the hall wire.
several times i've had problems identifying the short and just replaced them and it worked. a pia job to be sure, but the obvious penalty for running w/o torque arms!
get lyen's ebike tester anyway. your halls are probably fine, but it's by far the easiest way to check. w/o the tester, you could connect the halls connector, power it up, don't touch the throtlle, but manually spin the wheel while you jam on mm probe into the controller side of the black (or red?) connector and the other probe in first the blue, then yel, then green. the voltage should vary as you spin the wheel. helps if you have three hands.
to replace halls, unscrew the side covers, loosen them slightly (w/ chisel or somesuch but take it easy), remove the freewheel - may not be nec tho - lay the wheel freewheel side down on the ground, with a block under the axle, and stand on the wheel (wire side up). the wheel will pop down, and the stator will stay up, attached loosely to disk side cover. the halls should be exposed on the side, but you'll not be able to test them again until you reassemble, except by waving a magnet in front. at this point, you can peel back insulation on the legs and check for continuity...
you'll probably end up having to remove the wire side side cover, which is a drag, and best done w/ 6" gear puller. pretty handy if you own one of these motors.
if you replace the hall wires, you'll have to do it.
i can explain more if you need. i may have some vids w/ various part of it somewhere.