48v 1000w controller help

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mlt34
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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by mlt34 » Jun 17, 2014 3:35 pm

skeltonh wrote:48v 1000w KT type. Haven't found documentation for it. Seems to not want to run without the control panel, but they don't tell you this. I have yet to get mine too run. Considering a proven alternative but I'm really strapped on money, big time. Don't want to have my investment not work but sometimes guano happens...
so i'm not 100% positive, but i think you can get it to run by shorting blue with red and black with yellow on the display connector. I've seen it a few time and I'm fairly confident that this is that type of controller, but i'm not positive. I'd hate to cause damage to your controller though.
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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by Flaghole » Jun 17, 2014 5:54 pm

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=111

Here's some cleaner wiring diagrams to compare to your controller.

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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by Flaghole » Jun 17, 2014 6:16 pm

The last link was for controllers that use 3 Speed PAS LED.
Below is link for controllers using 5 Speed PAS LCD.

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=405

You can pick more diagrams on next link:

http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductsList.asp?id=115

Interestingly, the red text in the link distinguishes between controllers that can work without a LED and cases where you need a LCD to get it to work from factory settings.

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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by Flaghole » Jun 17, 2014 7:35 pm

skeltonh wrote:I got my controller through them. No documentation. No support. Just sells items.
I'm considering purchasing from them.

I also found this youtube link with same controller but has -LCD extension after the model number.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlFank4J ... ata_player

Do you have a LED version?

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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by skeltonh » Jun 17, 2014 8:17 pm

The first post of this thread shows the info. ZC14A is the suffix.

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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by skeltonh » Jun 19, 2014 3:42 am

I think I know why my controller does not work.... Because my wheel motor has a problem. I thought initially it was the controller (of which the old one was bad) but I think the pop I heard when my old controller went out was something in my motor. A hall sensor maybe??? Still have to take apart to see. Otherwise I'll assume the new controller, absent of a display, is good.

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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by number1cruncher » Jul 11, 2014 1:06 pm

I just bought a rear 48v 1000w rear hub from this ebikeling operation on ebay for $169 shipped and am having problems hooking it up.

I only bought a hub, no kit, no throttle, no controller, etc. No instructions or diagrams :( The box the wheel came in had 36V 350W crossed out and 48V 1000W written over top. Not condeming, but suspicious as it is lighter than my 9c 500W. :? I have not tried their "customer service" yet, so I cannot comment on that yet. I will say the free shipping was extremely fast.

It looks like the hall wiring on the OP's controller picture is Yellow=A, Green=B and Blue=C. Which follows the rainbow pattern or Lyen's. I usually wire YBG on the controllers I build, because that is how I started with the e-bikekit.com hubs. Anyway, I've tried all combinations (I think :oops:) and the YGB on both the halls and phases seems to run the wheel the best. With no load it sounds great. Add a load and it gets cranky. Very rough take off, with little torque. I did not ride further than 100 ft, as I did not want to get stranded today. Maybe tomorrow?

The only combination I cannot remember testing explicitly is Blue=A, Green=B and Yellow=C. I will try this combo again when I get home from work.
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Re: 48v 1000w controller help

Post by admin529 » Dec 06, 2017 11:16 pm

skeltonh wrote:
Jun 09, 2014 10:58 pm
I have a 48v 1000w controller that is the closest match I have found to the original controller that came with my motor.

Model: KT48ZWSL-ZC14A

The old one was a KT48ZWL.

The main problem I have is I have no writing specs for either. Most of the connections are universal but the throttle connection differs and there are two connections that I am unsure of. On the old throttle the connection has six wires. In the new one, only five.

See attachment for picture of new controller.

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1402372582605.jpg[/attachment]

I need this bike up and running as it is my commuter bike. While I could have waited more than a month for the slow boat from China I choose local, fast, and what I could afford.

Hopefully someone here can point me to the information I need.

Thanks!
I promised I would post when I had the bike stall sorted, just a little recap on saturday 12-2-2017 bike running perfect then it died and I went to restart when I thumbed to full it cut off completely, go to 1/2 way down it chugged and no more than 5 mph everyone said it was from the battery to controller to motor definately NOT THE THROTTLE. I will have ya all know IT WAS THE THROTTLE, the controller made by SUN it is a 6 wire throttle that plugs into a molex I did away with molex and hard soldered and full power fuil speed runs perfect. so any bizzare anomolies replace from cheapest to most expensive the throttle was like 10 bucks or so on amazon that turned out to fix issue

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