Known to Work Brushless Motor/Controller Wiring Diagrams

[fechter]

Like the topic states, post your known to work brushless motor to controller wiring diagrams here.

Well, I'll start with a no-brainer. A Crystalyte motor to the old analog Crystalyte controller, all the colors matched up, amazingly.

My sample of a Puma motor (may not be typical) to a Crystalyte analog controller looked like this:
Motor Controller

Phase wires:
Blue Green
Green Blue
Yellow Yellow

Hall sensors:
Blue Yellow
Green Green
Yellow Blue

Edit: reverse jumper open.


(edit to add keywords for search engines to find easier:
phase hall wire combination combo
phases halls wires combinations combos )

[The7]

Please also state whether the "reverse' link is CLOSE or OPEN if there is such a link in the controller.

[Nogwin]

My sample of a BAFANG motor (from knuckles) to a Crystalyte analog controller 36-72v 35A looked like this:
Motor Controller
reverse jumper open

My motor wiring combo
Motor Phase -- Controller
B B
G Y
Y G

Hall
Motor Controller
pos pos
neg neg
B B
G Y
Y G

This was the only combo that worked for me.

This is for Xlyte (old analog style) 36-72v 35A controller

[voicecoils]

If anyone has the known Bafang PMGR to old ecrazyman 72v 28A 1000w controllers (I think knuckles is calling them the "pic based" ones) I'd like to know it. Cheers!

[HAL9000v2.0]

Crystalyte 504 & Kelly KEB72331

X504 Kelly

Motor:
blue A
green B
yellow C

Hall:
yellow A(pin13)
blue B(pin12)
green C(pin11)
red +5V(pin7)
black GND(pin2 or 3 or 14 or bat- all is connected internaly)

Throttle:
black +5V(pin7)
green GND(pin2 or 3 or 14 or bat- all is connected internaly)
yellow throtle signal (pin5)
red not used

[docnjoj]

Does anyone know if the 20 amp model instant start analog 36-72 volt Crystalyte controller has a reverse jumper? Picture?????
otherDoc

[HAL9000v2.0]

Yes, it has...

[docnjoj]

Thanks HAL! Does the reverse circuit run slower/faster than forward circuit?
otherDoc

[HAL9000v2.0]

same. just changes sequence by flipping two fazes...

[docnjoj]

Ah ha! Thanks again HAL!
otherDoc

[rkosiorek]

it runs at the same speed. it just reverses the motor direction.

rick

[docnjoj]

My BAFANG geared motor (from knuckles) to a Crystalyte analog controller 36-72v 20A looked like this:
Motor Controller
reverse jumper open

My motor wiring combo
Motor Phase -- Controller
B Y
G G
Y B

Hall
Motor Controller
pos pos
neg neg
B B
G Y
Y G

This was the only combo that worked for me.

This is for Xlyte (old analog style) 36-72v 20A controller
I tried Nogwins wire combo and the motor ran backwards! As U all are aware, my combo runs at higher than normal current (12 A) free running at 42 volts. I am awating an Infineon to test whether it lowers free running amps. The motor behaves normally when a load is placed (like me riding up a hill) and current drops significantly on level ground (3-6 amps)

[docnjoj]

My BAFANG geared motor (from knuckles) to an Infineon 36-54 volt controller. This is one of 3 "known good" combos that Knuckles has on a new spreadsheet.
Motor Controller
reverse jumper open

My motor wiring combo
Motor Phase -- Controller
B B
G Y
Y G

Hall
Motor Controller
pos pos
neg neg
B B
G Y
Y G
There are 2 other combos that work. No load down to <1amp! Smooth as silk! Much better than old Crystalyte above!

otherDoc

[voicecoils]

Bafang PMGR and older pic based ecrazyman controller (72v 28a 1000w model):

Motor Phase -- Controller
B Y
G G
Y B

Hall
Motor Controller
pos pos
neg neg
B B
G Y
Y G

As suggested to me by Knuckles. Phase set to 120 deg (jumpers open)

[fechter]

Connecting an ecrazyman controller to a Crystalyte X5 motor:

I have had both controllers wired to a 5304, wiring is the same for both. Of course there are 6 working color combinations, this is just one, and matching colors does not work. To be thorough and cover even the more obvious stuff:

Infineon 45A/
Original 28A                 X5
------------------------------------
            Phase Wires
Blue                         Yellow
Green                        Green
Yellow                       Blue

        Hall Sensor Harness
Blue                         Green
Green                        Blue
Yellow                       Yellow
Red                          Red
Black                        Black

          3  Wire Throttle
Red                          Red
Green                        Green
Black                        Yellow

By the way, the Infineon has proven to be the most reliable controller I have had so far, it throws off little heat and can pump 72V and sustained 20-30A all deliver 40-45A easily when you need it. I have tested the 36/72V plastic shell Crystalyte, the Wilderness Energy, and both of these controllers.

[markcycle]

This is what I'm using with a 5302 and a Kelly KEB72601

Motor: A blue / B green / C yellow

Hall: A yellow (13) / B blue (12) / C brown (11)

seems to work for me
The Kelly is louder that the Crystalyte at very low RPM's but at 2 or 3 MPH smooths right out.

Mark

Edit: Oh I didn't know Fechter already posted it sorry for the duplication

[snowranger]

ECrazyman 48 volt Infineon to BMC hub motor

This is what worked for me. Thanks knuckles for the testing procedure. I blew two safety fuses in the process.

Phase Controller to Motor

B-B
G-Y
Y-G

Halls Controller to Motor

B-B
G-Y
Y-G

[drunkencat129]

to fined out the hull fireing order what i did was put 1 led in searies between each hall color and spin the motor the motor slowly when the controller is on DO NOT OPEN THE THROTLE then u can see what led fires in what order that will narow it down to the halls just compair it to ur other motor that was runing and ur all good match the order and u only need to fool with the 3 phase wires o and dont for get to remove the adapter if u end up makeing one lol

Like the topic states, post your known to work brushless motor to controller wiring diagrams here.

Well, I'll start with a no-brainer. A Crystalyte motor to the old analog Crystalyte controller, all the colors matched up, amazingly.

My sample of a Puma motor (may not be typical) to a Crystalyte analog controller looked like this:
Motor Controller

Phase wires:
Blue Green
Green Blue
Yellow Yellow

Hall sensors:
Blue Yellow
Green Green
Yellow Blue

Edit: reverse jumper open.

[methods]

Connecting hall sensors to a Kelly controller
(as promised to Fechter months ago)

Motor: 5305
Controller: Kelly KBL 12221H 120V 220A
All KBL are the same

HALL SENSORS:

X5______Kelly J2______Desc.
1 ---to--- 7 _______+5V
2 ---to--- 3 _______GND
3 ---to--- 11 ______Phase C
4 ---to--- 12 ______Phase B
5 ---to--- 13_______Phase A



MOTOR PHASE WIRES:

X5______Kelly
Blue_____Phase C
Yellow___Phase B
Green___Phase A


Tips for nOObs:

* TPS Switch is not used. Disable it or tied it to ground. It is a high pedal switch for a fork lift
* TPS analog is your throttle
* Brake switch goes to your ebrakes
* Brake analog is a variable brake. I dont use it. Just set the regen to brake to your desired level with the hand switch
* The voltages and currents are not perfect. Tune them in. DONT trust the LVC
* Current is MOTOR current
* If you dont own a CA then dont hook up this controller
* Pay the $19 for the J2 wiring cable. It will change your life from hell to heaven. All potted, labeled, bundled, and ready to go. Best thing ever.
* Download the newest firmware (Feb 09 it is V209)
* Spend time with the software to learn it
* Turn down the "rate" of the throttle for a more smooth response
* Fine tune the throttle end points
* Explicitly try Torque mode, Speed mode, and mixed mode
* Avoid TPS throttle
* Ask before you get frustrated
* DON'T PM me with questions. Ask in a thread or start a new thread and PM me to get my attention.
* Understand the schematic before wiring. It is a little confusing
* Ground is common. Never fuse it.
* Learn how to read the error codes
* If your new install is loud then your halls may be out of phase
* Please ask questions in the forum before claiming your controller is broken and sending it back
* If you are considering a Kelly but are not a DIY person look elsewhere. It is complicated to wire. This is NOT an xlyte plug and play.

Thats all for now.
I wish all new Kelly owners luck.

For the record, Kelly is the best company you could ever want to do business with. 100% guarantee on the controllers. No questions asked in the case of a problem. You ship it back and they ship one to you. Brand new same day. You cant beat that. Steven answers emails fast. If you want a no-nonsense controller that kicks ass this is the one for you. Mine has never even gotten warm under 100V 60A cont. use. I launch at 190A and no problems. Firmware updates are often so you dont have to worry about problems.

-methods

[markcycle]

Connecting hall sensors to a Kelly controller
(as promised to Fechter months ago)

Motor: 5305
Controller: Kelly KBL 12221H 120V 220A
All KBL are the same

HALL SENSORS:

X5______Kelly J2______Desc.
1 ---to--- 7 _______+5V
2 ---to--- 3 _______GND
3 ---to--- 11 ______Phase C
4 ---to--- 12 ______Phase B
5 ---to--- 13_______Phase A



MOTOR PHASE WIRES:

X5______Kelly
Blue_____Phase C
Yellow___Phase B
Green___Phase A


Tips for nOObs:

* TPS Switch is not used. Disable it or tied it to ground. It is a high pedal switch for a fork lift
* TPS analog is your throttle
* Brake switch goes to your ebrakes
* Brake analog is a variable brake. I dont use it. Just set the regen to brake to your desired level with the hand switch
* The voltages and currents are not perfect. Tune them in. DONT trust the LVC
* Current is MOTOR current
* If you dont own a CA then dont hook up this controller
* Pay the $19 for the J2 wiring cable. It will change your life from hell to heaven. All potted, labeled, bundled, and ready to go. Best thing ever.
* Download the newest firmware (Feb 09 it is V209)
* Spend time with the software to learn it
* Turn down the "rate" of the throttle for a more smooth response
* Fine tune the throttle end points
* Explicitly try Torque mode, Speed mode, and mixed mode
* Avoid TPS throttle
* Ask before you get frustrated
* DON'T PM me with questions. Ask in a thread or start a new thread and PM me to get my attention.
* Understand the schematic before wiring. It is a little confusing
* Ground is common. Never fuse it.
* Learn how to read the error codes
* If your new install is loud then your halls may be out of phase
* Please ask questions in the forum before claiming your controller is broken and sending it back
* If you are considering a Kelly but are not a DIY person look elsewhere. It is complicated to wire. This is NOT an xlyte plug and play.

Thats all for now.
I wish all new Kelly owners luck.

For the record, Kelly is the best company you could ever want to do business with. 100% guarantee on the controllers. No questions asked in the case of a problem. You ship it back and they ship one to you. Brand new same day. You cant beat that. Steven answers emails fast. If you want a no-nonsense controller that kicks ass this is the one for you. Mine has never even gotten warm under 100V 60A cont. use. I launch at 190A and no problems. Firmware updates are often so you dont have to worry about problems.

-methods

Wow that's different than what I'm using and what other people have used got to give it a try
This is what I'm using with a 5302 and a Kelly KEB72601

Motor: A /blue B/ green C/ yellow

Hall: A yellow (13) / B blue (12) / C brown (11)

[methods]

This stemmed from getting it wrong in the beginning.
I had to try different combinations till I got it to work.
Maybe I will try your combo this go around.

-methods

[Knuckles]

Anyone know the hall/phase color combos for the Infineon to a X-Lyte 5304?

[fechter]

Anyone know the hall/phase color combos for the Infineon to a X-Lyte 5304?

It was on the bottom of page one:

Infineon 45A/Original 28A X5304

Phase Wires
Blue Yellow
Green Green
Yellow Blue

Hall Sensor Harness
Blue Green
Green Blue
Yellow Yellow
Red Red
Black Black

[nicobie]

Thanks Fechter.

Knuckles was asking for me. I'm trying to match a controller with my 600w BMC motor. So far all I know is that a GM one won't work.

Nick

[dogman]

Wilderness energy motor to Crystalyte pedal first controller.

Another easy one, the colors match. No hall sensors on the motor to worry about, so this motor has to have pedal first.