Fitting a suspension fork

I think I'm screwed. My bike has a 255mm headtube. The total length top to bottom including the races is 273mm
It is a 1 1/8" threaded headset. I cannot find any threaded forks nearly long enough. And it seems a non threaded would need extensions and get awfully expensive. Ideas?

Or is it just a waste of time and $$. Get a shock absorbing seat post and
There are times when it seems i could do with some give...

You'll have a much easier time finding a threadless fork in the size you need. However, short travel suspension forks and suspension forks with long steer tubes are both very uncommon these days-- perhaps not as uncommon as threaded suspension forks, but difficult to find (and increasingly difficult to replace in the future).

It's no longer easy to get suspension forks with cantilever studs, either, at least in the 26" wheel size. If you must switch to a disc brake, you'll have to replace the wheel and brake in addition to the fork and possibly the headset and stem. Such a conversion can be nearly as expensive as a new bike.

If you haven't tried fatter tires with lower pressure yet, I think you're barking up the wrong tree by looking at suspension components. Try a pair of Schwalbe Big Apple 26 x 2.35" or CST Cyclops 26 x 2.4" tires with 30 psi in the rear and 25psi in the front. That would be cheaper, lighter, and more tunable than any mechanical suspension== while giving you traction, handling, and durability benefits along with the improved comfort you seek.

The first suspension component I'd consider for your bike would be a Thudbuster parallelogram linkage seatpost. Looking at your setup, it seems you have almost no weight on the front wheel. You'll want to put the cushioning where the weight is. So I'd go with a fat tire first, sprung saddle second, and a suspension seatpost (NOT the telescoping kind; those make your saddle swivel around annoyingly) after that.

If I misunderstand you, and you're just looking for a rigid replacement fork, you can get a Surly Long Haul Trucker fork for 26" with a 400mm steer tube. That won't take as fat a tire as a true MTB fork, but it is rated to accept 26 x 2.1", and it has lots of built-in mounting points for luggage and accessories.

Chalo, you came through again. You make excellent points, and with great clarity. Thanks for the time and saving my pocketbook, again! I think I've nearly exhausted the silly questions...nearly... :wink:

Best,

TD

Thanks Awolf, I'l search. All new terms for me...

Think Chalo may be making the best sense for my $$.

You are so far ahead of me as creative modifications go.

Best,

TD

amberwolf said:

You could get one of the triple-clamp type forks that lets you bolt in a different steerer tube. I can't remember the specific names of any right now, but I'd bet that some here on ES are using them, even if they aren't using the feature.

Or you could have a longer one pressed into at least some of the other types. There is a thread here on ES somewhere where someone did that; I think there's a link to it in my CrazyBike2 thread from around 3-4 years ago, but I didn't see it in a quick search. Possibly a variation on "press*" "steerer" would find it.

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Chalo beat me to it with very good advice.

The only option I can see would be a threadless fork, and swap the headset to threadless to use it. But as he pointed out, good luck finding a short travel fork with a steer that long.

A very long travel fork, like over 100mm, will start to drastically change the angles, and could leave your with a bike as poor handling as the Fuji I once built. It was a dang wheeliemobile, occasionally letting you steer at all.

Best bet for that frame will be a thudbuster seat post, and some fat as will fit tires.

Thudbuster is it. ST or LT? Opinions? Reading their recomendations a 220lb guy (still losing 35to go) ought to use the LT.

Learned my lesson from years riding hardtail choppers that fat tires and low pressure is the 1st, best and cheapest thing to try. My vote for 26" x 2.4" Cyclops CST... However, to maximize the cushion benefits you really need fatter rims than what this bike probably came with. Somewhere in the 24-32mm rim width allows you to run lowest pressure and still keep the tire on the rim under hard cornering.

Because I like a low seat and my feet on the ground when stopped I've never done the thud buster thing. Everytime I see one installed it appears to add several inches to the resting seat height.

Ultimately, I eventually went with "quality" suspension frames and components. Then deal with the minor inconveniences that accompany that path. Which are much easier then what you're going to run into attempting to update forks for a long threaded stem frame.

Ykick said:

Learned my lesson from years riding hardtail choppers that fat tires and low pressure is the 1st, best and cheapest thing to try. My vote for 26" x 2.4" Cyclops CST... However, to maximize the cushion benefits you really need fatter rims than what this bike probably came with. Somewhere in the 24-32mm rim width allows you to run lowest pressure and still keep the tire on the rim under hard cornering.

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Actually my winter rims will take a lower oressure tire but my 3 season, new rims are 19's likely precluding that option.

Ykick said:

Because I like a low seat and my feet on the ground when stopped I've never done the thud buster thing. Everytime I see one installed it appears to add several inches to the resting seat height.

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I'm thinking the ST for that reason. I ride flat foot by design with the crank forward frame. It seems that the ST will be the best option.

Ykick said:

Ultimately, I eventually went with "quality" suspension frames and components. Then deal with the minor inconveniences that accompany that path. Which are much easier then what you're going to run into attempting to update forks for a long threaded stem frame.

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You found "quality suspension frames and components" that are comfortable pedaling AND flat foot?

Kiriakos GR said:

I am in love with your wind shield.

Either way I am also bonded with a frame that is not designed to have suspension.
Because I love quality too, by discovering how extremely pricey is a good suspension, I did decide to skip it.
Cheap ones is more like toys, which in your case they will cause more problems than good.

I am also going to experiment regarding the suggestion for less air pressure in the tubes, my Marathon Plus tires are not that fat, but there is some room for improvements.
http://www.ittsb.eu/forum/index.php?topic=963.0

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Suspension fork is now a dead idea. I am now thinking the ST Thudbuster will be the best option along with 2.00-2.15 Schwalbe tires. Schwalbe sizing charts indicate a wide range of choices with 19mm rim. We'll see just how low the pressure can be without sidewall collapse. The good news is i don't ride in brutal conditions.

Ever feel like you'd like to back up with what you know know and start all over. :lol: All kidding aside the crank forward design was my only choice in designs that I am able to ride due to my disabilties. Regardless of the sacrifices and limitations, both financial and physical, it's becoming a great ride. Thanks all for the feedback in the evolution of this ride. I'm quite happy thanks to you all. End Hallmark moment. :wink:

tomjasz said:

You found "quality suspension frames and components" that are comfortable pedaling AND flat foot?

Click to expand...

Not exactly, it's a compromise. I don't have any physical limitations but I'm lazy and prefer to just put my feet down when stopped. Found a combination of short travel swingarm and Fox Float shock length for an older Cannondale Super V900 which accomplished what I was looking for:

The lovely Mrs Ykick demonstrates:

(it's the only pic I have of that bike, LOL)

TBH - speeds in the "bicycle" realm and low pressure FAT tires do "enough" for my needs but much above 20MPH decently valved and dampened suspension travel is a major improvement.

Dang, hard to focus on the bicycle! Mrs tomjasz cuts a similar figure. Lucky boys we are..