how to bundle power wires from battery to controller

It's a really simple question, I know, but I'm new to electronics and haven't found an answer. Using 2 leads of turnigy 12awg silicone-insulated wire http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9673__Turnigy_Pure_Silicone_Wire_12AWG_1mtr_RED.html, how do I bundle them together into a 5' long single cable?

Heat shrink the whole thing rather than just the connector ends? If so what size heat shrink tubing? Or ...

Is there a jacket that is commonly used for this? Maybe this wire mesh guard: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9554__Wire_Mesh_Guard_Black_10mm_1mtr_.html What size would be right for 2-12awg wires? It wouldn't scratch the bicycle frame would it? Or..

Spiral wrap like this. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._wrap_tube_ID_9mm_OD_10mm_Black_2_Metre_.html Not a very a clean look I would think? Again what size for 2-12 awg wires? Or ...

A better way?

A related question is what to use as a clamp to hold wires tightly to the battery bottle 15 mm exit hole? I'm not finding anything at Hobby King?

Thanks for the help - Esteban

perhaps:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/corrugated-wire-loom

I've been using this stuff for years. I usually cut the 4" roll in half. Comes in ten colors to match your frame and can be reused. I just wrap it around both the wires and the frame tube.

Also might come in handy if you crash your bike and need a quick way to stop the bleeding.

http://www.horse.com/item/syrvet-syrflex-bandage/SLT181151/

I use nylon cable sheathing and heat shrink at the ends. The nylon sheathing, I have in different sizes and materials depending on the application. They have to be carefully measured an installed before any connectors are put on. (<--- remembering that is half the battle)

I also recently order this stuff called F6 split loom that can be put on an already terminated wire, but I'm still waiting on it from China.

I like to use 2 and 3 conductor black rubber jacketed cable instead of individual wires.



-R

cal3thousand said:

I also recently order this stuff called F6 split loom that can be put on an already terminated wire, but I'm still waiting on it from China.

Click to expand...

+1 on the F6 split loom. It looks and flexes way better than corrugated plastic wire loom. Comes in several sizes. The split allow you to add additional cabling, or tuck and hide partial cable runs. The only drawback is that it frays quickly at the cut ends. Solve this by using a lighter to melt the ends, or tucking the ends into short lengths of heat shrink tubing.

EstebanUno said:

Maybe this wire mesh guard: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9554__Wire_Mesh_Guard_Black_10mm_1mtr_.html What size would be right for 2-12awg wires? It wouldn't scratch the bicycle frame would it? Or..

Click to expand...

That's not made of wire, it's a plastic mesh. It gives a nice tidy finish, you need to melt, tape or heatshrink the ends or they get frayed. It's width can expand quite a bit when compressed and tightens down as you pull it.

Avitt said:

+1 on the F6 split loom. It looks and flexes way better than corrugated plastic wire loom. Comes in several sizes. The split allow you to add additional cabling, or tuck and hide partial cable runs. The only drawback is that it frays quickly at the cut ends. Solve this by using a lighter to melt the ends, or tucking the ends into short lengths of heat shrink tubing.

Click to expand...

Nice bike! Looks very clean. I use a Patterson too.

I got this in 6mm: Expandable Braided Sleeving Cable Wire Harnessing Sheathing Sleeve. http://www.ebay.com/itm/33115478244...49&var=540358017347&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I think it is the same as the split loom, only not split. So I'll have to install while making up the cables.

Does this braided PET sleeving shed water? Or is it just cosmetic? I'm planning to heat shrink over the ends. I think it is the same as the expandable "wire-bradided" hobby king stuff I linked originally, but they were out of stock at the western USA warehouse. If it doesn't work out, I'll get some split loom and cover later. F6 is a brand name or is that a specification?

Nice looking split loom install, avitt. And thanks for the suggestions to all.

Russell said:

I like to use 2 and 3 conductor black rubber jacketed cable instead of individual wires.

Click to expand...

This is what I expected to find at Hobby King (I know it's at hardware stores), and not finding it is what prompted some research, and eventually this thread. Heat shrinking the connector ends over the cable jacket would make a nice clean and easy install. So why all the fuss making up cables with silicone-insulated wire? I read somewhere that HobbyKing's wire is really good, but does it matter? My install is bbs02. If lower resistance insulation bumps efficiency into a noticeable range (not likely imho), it would be worth it. In any case, I bought it so I'm committed.

So what do you all think about high quality silicone-insulated wire vs standard stranded copper wire?

That's very similar to the stuff I have been using without the split. It's harder to work with, but makes the cables look nice and clean.

They won't shed any water and are actually a really good idea with silicone wires. Silicone wires benefit in that they can handle high temps and then are super flexible and mostly chemical resistant. The cons are that the silicone is easily sliced open if nicked. That's why you want something like this jacket that will allow the cable to flex, but at the same time will prevent nicks in the silicone.

EstebanUno said:

Russell said:

I like to use 2 and 3 conductor black rubber jacketed cable instead of individual wires.

Click to expand...

This is what I expected to find at Hobby King (I know it's at hardware stores), and not finding it is what prompted some research, and eventually this thread. Heat shrinking the connector ends over the cable jacket would make a nice clean and easy install. So why all the fuss making up cables with silicone-insulated wire? I read somewhere that HobbyKing's wire is really good, but does it matter? My install is bbs02. If lower resistance insulation bumps efficiency into a noticeable range (not likely imho), it would be worth it. In any case, I bought it so I'm committed.

So what do you all think about high quality silicone-insulated wire vs standard stranded copper wire?

Click to expand...

The insulation around the conductors isn't going to do anything for you. The wire is flexible and heat-resistant so if you're running high currents, wire in tight places, or where it gets really toasty then sure go for the premium stuff. For most of us however pretty much any wire will do as long as it's of sufficient gauge for the current loads. For example 14 AWG is rated for about 30A (in open air) and is sufficient for many low power installs especially runs of a few feet. At 5 ft there would be 0.5V lost in the wire alone at 20A so a larger gauge wouldn't be a bad idea.

For your BBS02 you of course don't have to worry about the controller to motor cable length but I often have a rear mounted battery/controller and front motor so what I do to get some extra power to the motor is to cut off the existing cable a foot or so from the motor and run 12 gauge 3 conductor cable back to the controller. I started using jacketed cable because it looks nice, provides added protection against the elements and tie wraps snug down against the rubber holding it securely in place.

-R

Russell said:

The wire is flexible and heat-resistant so if you're running high currents, wire in tight places, or where it gets really toasty then sure go for the premium stuff. For most of us however pretty much any wire will do as long as it's of sufficient gauge for the current loads.

For your BBS02 you of course don't have to worry about the controller to motor cable length but I often have a rear mounted battery/controller and front motor so what I do to get some extra power to the motor is to cut off the existing cable a foot or so from the motor and run 12 gauge 3 conductor cable back to the controller. I started using jacketed cable because it looks nice, provides added protection against the elements and tie wraps snug down against the rubber holding it securely in place.

-R

Click to expand...

Actually I have a fairly long run considering I'm planning to install a watt meter on the handlebars. Snaking the wire to the meter up the stem and around to the bars while avoiding unsupported spans of phase wire may call for the flexible 12ga silicone I ordered. But I really like the simplicity and water tightness of the jacketed cable. I'll keep it in mind going forward.

Esteban