Chip Blowing in Controller when under load.

Have a commercial built Wisper 905e Electric Bike.

A month ago it started to blow the 20amp in the battery pack as soon as you turned it on.

Local electronics store has now eliminated the blowing of fuses.

The problem now, is that you switch the bike on, all is fine until you start to rev. No matter what stage the throttle is, it is blowing Chips IRF1010 Q1 + Q2 within the controller, no matter what load you have on.

Controller is 2008-2009 with black 8x multi pin motor controller plug if that helps.

We have not a clue and are running out of chips. Thanks

Is that this one?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68053

amberwolf said:

Is that this one?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68053

Click to expand...

No. That was a totally different bike and problem. Thanks to this forum is now sorted.

deano said:

Have a commercial built Wisper 905e Electric Bike.

A month ago it started to blow the 20amp in the battery pack as soon as you turned it on.

Local electronics store has now eliminated the blowing of fuses.

The problem now, is that you switch the bike on, all is fine until you start to rev. No matter what stage the throttle is, it is blowing Chips IRF1010 Q1 + Q2 within the controller, no matter what load you have on.

Controller is 2008-2009 with black 8x multi pin motor controller plug if that helps.

We have not a clue and are running out of chips. Thanks

Click to expand...

first we need to know why the battery had fuses in the main wire that kept blowing and what you did to fix that.

you have to take the controller apart and show detailed pictures of the circuit board where you soldered the mosfets in place. have you already examined it and tested it for continuity to ground?

The fuses were a systematic problem in early Wispers. They used the wrong type, which made the holders melt.

The problem now is the output mosfets blowing. The most likely causes are:

1. Short in the motor phase wires. Check the motor wires and connectors, especially the wire where it comes out of the motor.

2 Motor phase wire bullet connector not tight enough or bad connection on the motor connector by the motor.

3. Letting the motor go too slow when climbing hills. You shouldn't let it go anything less than 6 mph. When do they blow - on the flat or only when climbing, or don't you even get started?

4 Incorrect phase or hall wire connection sequence. Check all the colours match.

5 Faulty hall wire connection. That would give noise or rough running before the mosfets blew.

6 Miscellaneous fault on the controller pcb.

7 Short in the motor windings.

Has the controller had any modification like a soldered shunt? You need to eliminate the above possibilities before getting a new controller, then you can get a S06S and LCD from BMSBattery, which is a much nicer system than what you already have. Come back if you decide to go in that direction.

Gone right through your checklist. (many thanks for it)

Still popping them two output moffits. ( Waiting for new batch)

Everything checked out. Noted the battery is not regular.
Example can show 36v then down to 18V. Getting proper surges going on. I think its "spiking" and is not regular It is 5 years old.

I have a 24v battery to try, just to eliminate that it is battery. Is that OK to test with a 24v?

Hope it is battery because have properly gone through you check list.

Will let you know when the components arrive.

It won't work at 24v. The controller cuts of at about 30v. Your battery going to 18v means that the BMS is switching off, prob ably because you're drawing too much current from it, which is why your mosfets are blowing. It's posdible that there's a fault in your controller, but more likely, it's the motor or its cable.

Have retested the motor and others as of http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html.

This is what is happening. Connect everything. All lights up OK. Can push the bike around all OK. As soon as load is applied LED goes out whole system is dead. The light indicators on the battery show nothing when you press the button on the battery.

We plug battery into charger and all the lights come back on. Take charger out and switch back on the bike. The whole system lights ups again. As soon as load applied, the same thing happens.

I now have a 36v battery to try out. In the mean time I am now looking for replacement battery for the bike any links appreciated so I can prepare myself for the cost

Look out for the Oxygen batteries on Ebay. They're selling off surplus stock.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=201434099286&alt=web

d8veh said:

Has the controller had any modification like a soldered shunt? You need to eliminate the above possibilities before getting a new controller, then you can get a S06S and LCD from BMSBattery, which is a much nicer system than what you already have. Come back if you decide to go in that direction.

Click to expand...

Have tried other battery. System does exactly the same to this battery. The motor checks out OK. So going for the new controller. Please can you send me links for the nicer Controller and LCD? so I can get it ordered. Thanks

New controller from www.amps.bike . plugged her in and the bike runs a treat.

Thanks to all and a big thank you to Claud at amp bikes for his understanding of the many types of controller's there are and for getting me the right one. For all things e-bike in the UK amp bikes for me in future.