KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

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soeno
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KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by soeno » Nov 04, 2017 5:20 pm

Hi!
Complete newbie here, so please bear with me...

I converted my MTB over to a hub RWD ebike back in January with the 500 watt kit from Cyclotricity.
It's great and everything works very nicely... but...

I recently wanted to change from the KT-LCD1 to the KT-LCD3, so that I could get cruise control to save my aching thumb. After copying the parameters from one lcd to the other, everything works, motor drives at 400 watt, battery shows 42v etc.

However, I've noticed that I'm not getting as much torque as when I'm using the KT-LCD1. Now, I've researched everything I can, but still can't find an explanation. Perhaps the hint here is that the controller is only giving 400 watt out, rather than 500 watt - I'm speculating here that the KT-LCD1 is giving a full 500 watt. I've tried various things, increasing/decreasing the max current setting, increasing the voltage cut off point, but nada, drive only runs at 400 watt.

Would love to hear your thoughts,
Soen

d8veh
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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by d8veh » Nov 05, 2017 6:57 am

I don't get it at all. You have anaching thumb, so you want cruise control. What's wrong with the PAS that you already have. Isn't that the same as cruise control only better?

soeno
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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by soeno » Nov 05, 2017 8:05 am

Well, PAS requires me to pedal. So I want to be ultra lazy and not pedal, but not have to keep my thumb on the throttle as well.

-Soen

soeno
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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by soeno » Nov 05, 2017 8:57 am

I just wanted to add that my controller is a Kunteng KT36ZWSRM-GP05, rated at 11A with a maximum current of 22 ± 1A.

-Soen

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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by docw009 » Nov 05, 2017 11:16 am

I have LCD1 (I think) on one one bike and LCD3 on the others. First one doesn't show watts. Second one shows watts, but it bounces around if you're looking for max. Average watts are easier to assess. So I would think you're reading around 400W on acceleration and you feel that it's slower than with the LCD1.

It also seems that you set the C5 parameter to 10 for max current.

Maybe it's subjective. When using the accelerometer in your butt, the mind plays tricks. I would suggest a wattmeter to compare peak amps and running amps.

My KT36/48/ZWSRDSLS02 will put about 400-440W into a Q100H on 36V, so I don't think there's much more anyway. It's a 10A controller. On 4V8V and 52V, same controller, the LCD3 will indicate 700W and 900W.

soeno
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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by soeno » Nov 06, 2017 12:26 pm

Thanks for the reply; that sounds about right to me. A 36v 10A controller will top out around 420 watt (10*42v), so in theory my 11A controller should do 440 watt, possibly more with the peak rated at 22A. You're right to think it might be subjective, I confirmed it by taking both controllers out on a test ride and switched between them and there's a definite dip in performance on the LCD3.

As the LCD1 has no settings for drive phase, but the LCD3 does, I'm actually just assuming that the LCD3 isn't designed to be coupled with square wave controllers, and should be used with a sine wave controller - which will be my next upgrade.

Can anyone can recommend a good sine controller for a 500watt/36v motor that's compatible with the Kunteng displays?

-Soen

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eCue
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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by eCue » Nov 18, 2017 1:02 pm

Check on the throttle voltage as I read somewhere that some controllers are set to read 5v throttle input as max others 4.2v if your throttle max's out at 4.2v the controller might be reading it as part throttle.
"98 Quintana roo Panamint 350w mxus build link - https://endless-sphere.com/forums/view ... =6&t=91627

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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by d8veh » Nov 20, 2017 5:29 am

soeno wrote:
Nov 06, 2017 12:26 pm
Thanks for the reply; that sounds about right to me. A 36v 10A controller will top out around 420 watt (10*42v), so in theory my 11A controller should do 440 watt, possibly more with the peak rated at 22A. You're right to think it might be subjective, I confirmed it by taking both controllers out on a test ride and switched between them and there's a definite dip in performance on the LCD3.

As the LCD1 has no settings for drive phase, but the LCD3 does, I'm actually just assuming that the LCD3 isn't designed to be coupled with square wave controllers, and should be used with a sine wave controller - which will be my next upgrade.

Can anyone can recommend a good sine controller for a 500watt/36v motor that's compatible with the Kunteng displays?

-Soen
If your controller is 22A, that'svwhat you get. 22A x 42v = 900w approx.

You didn't change the controller, so maximum power should be the same. The LCD3 is compatible with all KT controllers. If there's a difference in power, you need to go through all the settings, in particular P1 and C5. Also, it might be a good idea to check the speed limits.

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Re: KT-LCD1 vs KT-LCD3

Post by lightbeer » Dec 03, 2017 5:21 am

Hi, I have a small bit to add.The cyclotricity kit derestriction happens through P6 parameter.(Thats how i derestricted after signing a statement).However, i am not sure, if other LCDs can hold the P6 parameter.They use KT LCD 1- 2.5 but I wonder if even any LCD 1 can handle P6, as i can not find it being mentioned on the net.Could it be, that cyclotricity has their own firmware for LCD 1? I have same experience as described here, after I copied data to LED 890.IT looks like only first five P values had been copied over.

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