Self build project advice on all components/frame etc

Kevinwilson

10 µW
Joined
Dec 16, 2017
Messages
5
Bit of a long shot but does anyone have the b52 bomber part list breakdown. I am considering building my own self build but want an idea of the parts so I know where to start looking.

Batteries
72 volts 20ah of lifepo4 batteries
Motor
5304 crystallite motor
Gear box
SunTour Vboxx pedal transmission system.
Front suspension
RST- R1 or White Brothers Grove 200 upgrade
Display
Cycle Analyst

Any more parts people know of would be a huge benifit.

The battery confuses me a little. Please forgive me as I am a real newbie to this. Although I have electrician friends who I will get to help me, want to be as clues up as possible before I start nagging them.

I have seen different versions of the battery described.

https://www.dnkpower.com/products/lifepo4-lithium-72v-20ah-electric-bike-battery/
Hard shell one like this or
http://www.pingbattery.com/72v-20ah-v5-lifepo4-lithium-battery-packs/

Or this
https://www.electricrider.com/collections/lithium-batteries/LiFePO4-(Clydesdale-Ed)

Finally I am considering different frames but all depends on if I can fit the bigger batteries into a smaller lighter frame.

Firstly the EEB bike frame which is pretty full on and will definitely take the bigger batteries. The eagle uses this frame as their basis.
https://em3ev.com/shop/eeb-full-suspension-ebike-frame-package/

Here is the eagle https://www.cabmotorworks.com/product-p/e-1.htm


Or maybe could shoe horn the batteries into something like the vortex light on here?
http://vectorebike.com/bikes/vortex.html

Any other frames that should be considered for the build? Basically what I want is the lightest possible fastest bike that if possible looks as much like as bike as you can.

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

Kev
 
Batteries
72 volts 20ah of lifepo4 batteries
Motor
5304 crystallite motor
Gear box
SunTour Vboxx pedal transmission system.
Front suspension
RST- R1 or White Brothers Grove 200 upgrade


Welcome to the forum.

Batteries.
Hi quality 18650 or 20700 cells. Forget lifepo4. If you are daring get lipoly from HK. 20s = 72v.

Motor.
5304 or QS 205.

Gearbox
Forget about it. Costly not really reliable and not really needed.

Front fork.
RST forget about it. Get yourself better ones for lower price. Either look for bargins or get the widely used DNM USD 8.
White brothers out if business, or so I've heard a while back.

Controller
Then you got to get yourself a decent controller. Controller can make or brake the ride. Don't skimp on the controller.
Make sure your controller can deliver peak power at least 12-14 kw.

Frame:
Seeing as you started this thread by saying you would like a DIY B-52 Bomber you need to take a look at the Alpha and Beta frames from Hyena. FUTR bike is actually the same as Bomber, but only a frame kit. Made by the same people who made the Bomber.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=80490

Alpha
file.php


Beta
ZHeMChnbnyGM76Oyfxg5iZEKZ9eZWQysWK5QgghjV3Fu7ADfNnnKb3GnTZjzd-vFUTtSqZynmB0equpFcwfEVraY91NhQPhQ6mRsOryio4k3Lu1mM8nOPjCH6qU0QWuy_i8SdjxcsDLAelw_FA
 
That’s great thanks for the reply.

Now the futr beta looks the business. Anyone got them to the uk before? How doe the futr
Frame compare to the eem. Obviously Eem is Chinese but much different in quality and geometry? Think the beta looks a bit lighter and more like a bite than an electric motorbike. Are there any other companies around that do something like the beta maybe in Europe?

How quick do you reckon you could get the beta? What battery/ motor/ gearing would get the best fastest build on this bike? Thanks again for you help kev
 
From the top of my head there is vectorebike.com from germany.

They got a light weight one. http://www.vectorebike.com/bikes/the-vector-light.html

qdVyNhx.jpg


A "standard" 20s battery will work with most all controllers, and paired up with a powerful motor like I listed in previous post you will top out at about 60 mph if motor is laced into a 18" wheel. You can gain a little more top speed if you volt higher or up to 19" but that will come at a price. As a direct drive hub motor does not have any internal gearing, the only way to change gearing is by changing the rear wheel size. Now a 17" wheel will give you more torque and climb better and accelerate stronger then if you lace the same motor into a 19" wheel. You will loose some top speed, but on the other hand you will gain faster acceleration and torque so you can climb steeper hills without overheating.

Also volting higher then 20s can be tricky. Most of the commonly available controllers in the e-bike scene are made with internal hardware that can handle up to about 90v. The closer you run to that 90v the more risk of blowing a mos fet or causing damage to your controller.

Motors are pretty much happy with whatever you feed them. They don't care much. Higher voltage means higher RPM and higher top speed. But if going 24s or even higher you need to be certain you run a controller that can handle the voltage. Those kind of controllers are available so it is up to you to set your boundaries.

In general I think most people here on ES will agree, at least to some extent that more important then top speed is acceleration. Acceleration is what will put that grin on your face every time you twist that throttle. So as a first build I would recommend to stay with 20s battery and find a controller with high peak phase current. Preferable with torque throttle.

As with everything else, the more power you put into your ride the more you need to factor in that power when choosing other parts. Like brakes, rims, hubs. spokes, shocks and fork. Those parts will make sure your bike handles well and will keep you alive. Neither one of them is to be skimped on. I mean you don't need a 500 $ competition DH grade rim, it will be nice but you could choose a motorcycle rim for 50$ and still have the safety margin on your side. For brakes, well if you ride hard put some money into at least a good front brake. Remember it is not all about the number of pistons or the rotor size, those can be good indicators but you want stuff that works well too. Front brakes you need to modulate. You need a set that you can easily apply the right amount of pressure to in each situation. Cheapo chinese brakes don't work well.
 
Forgot about the Slovenian Qulbix bikes. They got the 76r frame kit. Oc they also got it as a ready made bike too.

qulbix-rolling-chassis-76-10kW-bicycle-v1-small.jpg


Here kitted out with fat bikes wheels;
qulbix-rolling-chassis-fat-3_small.jpg


Put on mc rims or DH rims and that looks like a bicycle too. Very light and very stealthy.
Have a look see https://qulbix.com/index.php
 
That’s brilliant thank you. Getting the price on two beta frames from futr as thinking they look fractionally better than the vector frame, but will definitely order one of them vector lightweight frames if the others work out too expensive.

So even though there is not that much battery room on these lighter weight bikes do you still reckon you can get enough battery in them to get approx 40-50mph with good climbing capabilities. Just they seem a lot smaller than say the bomber style ones.

Thanks again you’ve been an absolute legend
 
Those smallest frames I must say I am not familiar with, I ride the Vector v1 myself and got plenty of room for batteries. I think 480 pieces of 18650 will fit. Not that I have maxed it out.

For those small light weight frames take a look at the FUTR build thread, you will find much infor and can see how other planned and fitted their battery.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=71666&p=1342373&hilit=futr#p1342373

Here is one for the Vector lightweight:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=91406

Yet another FUTR Beta build: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=90048

Vector + Vector light build gone wild
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=90010
 
That’s great info cheers. Now just to decide between the bigger or lighter frame. Would love to know what’s the top speed someone has got on 27 wheels with the beta.
 
Using the simulator tool you can choose various motors, different voltage, amp and so in. So you will see how will bike accelerate, climbs, top speed and how fast it over heats. For DD hubs changing the rear wheel diameter is our way of changing the gearing.

If you get stuck while playing with the simulator, see the SIMULATOR how to, FAQ, and the Simulator Details on site, or even search this forum for tips and help.

http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?SID=6a497288dcfec3b207baa578803db23a
 
Wow you guys are so hopeful best forum ever. Thanks for all the info really really appreciate it ;)
 
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