just a few notes.
F&p would you know the weight of the stator alone ? and can the shaft be easily removed for shipping ?
The stators are about 5.3kg.
The shaft is easily removed or cut down.
The complete motor in the picture below weighs about 8kg with some excess plastic housing (this is the quick method of getting them out of the tubs, a hammer) I then machine the bearing housing down to about the allumiun bearing housing which fits nicely into a section of 70mm x 70mm x 2.5mm steel square tube. I then fill all the gaps with f-glass resin, and use about 4 large short roofing screws with pre-drilled holes to hold it in place. It has never moved.
- completeF&Pmotor1.JPG (61.88 KiB) Viewed 1449 times
- complete F&Pmotor.JPG (72.93 KiB) Viewed 1448 times
The entire motor as I mentioned can be pulled apart and the longest thing is the shaft which could be cut down to only protrude out about 2".
@those wishing to rewind with thicker wire: Those end tabs are plastic, right? Well....since they're not part of the iron of the stator, you can remove them, even if temporarily. Make your windings on a form outside of the motor, so that you can wrap as easily and neatly as you want into a slight cone-shape for max copper in whatever wire size you're after. Then slip it off the form and onto the stator pole, gluing it down if necessary. Repeat for every pole, and voila! Really cool and neat winding you can't do on most motors due to the stator construction!
That is how I rewire car and truck alts for wind turbines, and takes only about 2hrs. But it is a bit harder with the F&P stator as the top of the stator laminate area is a fair bit larger the inner. The spare stator i have that has the copper removed but is at another place and will get some pics as soon as i get back. But i guess the inner laminate area is about half of that of the top area that you see in the pics. This also means that there is more copper than you guys can probably see in the pics.
PEFORMANCE: The only thing I guarantee is what you have seen in the pics and videos as for performance, and i feel it could be running even better with the 12fet Infineon which I have measured accuratly to be putting out 48Amps at 48V after soldering the shunt a bit. Motor and controller do get a bit hot now after some low speed full thottle runs in the front yard but not as bad once i get some speed up. It is after all hauling a decent load at 90KG for the complete car and me about 70kg. 4 x 18Ah Lead acid batts are the biggest killer in weight, but money.
John in CR wrote:
These are brushless motors, so what is going wrong with them in such abundance?
They made bad motor controllers, an often blew in brown outs.
I have also thought about using flat wire and might even try it now after some suggestions.
Q: As I have reconfigured in parallel to get the Amps up, could i just use heavy flat wire with less turns and leave in series or would you use say equivelent .8mm round cable and simlar turns and then connect all in parallel??
Also: I meausred about .4 Ohm with this motor and the first was only .1 Ohm, but kept on blowing controllers when i was using the 6 fets versions. I have not tried the .1 Ohm motor yet on the modified infineon 12fet controller.
QQ: What is a X5 roughly, I know they vary.
F&P
Matt
Suzuki SP200, Mars Brushless, 300 Amp Kelly Controller,(18S12P) 
I have it here if you want pics i showed enoob the pics and we agreed they are too small for our application 
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