mud2005 wrote:a 3210 anodized black for $285 includes shipping I can hardly believe it. I'll take 1 for sure, wish I had more money or I'd get more. If my buddy who owes me a bunch of cash pays me before this happens I will take more, but I can't count on that happening.
when's the deadline for ordering these?
One question though, I've always wondered about getting a 3210 w/ a hardened steel shaft. I'm a huge perfectionist (spaz?) and I never liked how the set screws dig into the shaft when tightened. I tend to take the pulley on and off mine often while experimenting and it has many circles on it.
Is a hardened steel shaft possible on a 3210? If astroflight doesn't want to deal with it I could even get the shaft myself and cut it to size and grind flats and ship it to astro.
Sorry to be a pain w/ special requests and all, but I had to ask.
If it's not possible I still want 1 motor for sure in black and 10 turn.
I can also pre-pay.
Flats = weak.
Dimples = win.
Barely put any tension on the setscrew when you are in the stage of figuring things out for sprocket placement and RnD. Once you get locations figured out, take the setscrew out, and run a drill down the setscrew hole slightly smaller than the thread ID to get a position marked. Remove the sprocket and drill the dimple in the shaft to match the profile of the end of the setscrew. Re-assemble. Done.
liveforphysics wrote:If somebody gets BigMoose a picture of the rotor/magnet layout, he will give the sensor positions needed for Delta or Wye operation. Combine that with Miles CAD work for a board layout, and Gary's board printing connections, and we can have a sensor retro-fit done ourselves without waiting on Bob for who knows how many years. lol
Combine with the IRF 4110 fitted 6-fet programable infinion controllers the size of a creditcard, and you've got yourself a 100v sensored drive solution for a fraction of the cost of a castle ESC.
JEB wrote: My thought was to have a external disk with the correct number of magnets embeded in it that could be timed to the best starting point (power on) then use something like a one shot ( 4538?) that could be ajusted to have the optimum width for turn off.
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