Schwinn Spoiler---Now with 1200w Cyclone Motor

Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
This includes R/C motors, botttom bracket, roller and geared drives.

Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Tue May 03, 2011 9:13 am

WHAT A PLONKER?
(I dont know my LH-Freewheel from my Right?)

I found a local turner and had him turn me up a piece that he press fitted into the lefthand cup of a bottom bracket. I had my mate put a little weld on it to make sure it stays put. I then slipped this onto my motor shaft and gave it a few good whacks with a hammer to make sure it was well seated in. I was going to get my mate to put a tack on the shaft to make sure it held in place but im glad he wasn't at home to do the weld!

Today I finished making up a plate to hold my motor, I then measured my new chain and took off some links, fitted the chain and snapped the master link on. I thought all I had left to do was hook up the controller and batts and I'd be off - simple!
But no, the lefthand freewheel still rotates when the bike is in motion, it only freewheels when I move the bike backwards.........aaaaaaaarrrrgggggghhhhhhhh shit.

Press fitted bb cup.
Image
Image

Motor and Freewheel direction.
The freewheel on the motor freewheels in a clockwise direction.
It drives in an anti-clockwise direction, the trouble is the bike will always be moving forward and this will turn the freewheel - the motor will always be turning and not freewheeling like I wanted.
Image

Damn and blast!
So it looks like its back to the drawing board. I think I'll need a RH bottom bracket cup and a RH freewheel, then pay another vistit to the turner for another piece made up. :(
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby Thud » Tue May 03, 2011 9:51 am

Top,
Get a Dicta freewheel. you can screw it on from the front, flip the assembly over so the motor drive will not spin the freewheel off the threads....boom! your in busness.

http://www.amazon.com/Dicta-18t-32-BMX- ... B001CJVFMU
get some......

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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Tue May 03, 2011 11:23 am

Thud wrote:Top,
Get a Dicta freewheel. you can screw it on from the front, flip the assembly over so the motor drive will not spin the freewheel off the threads....boom! your in busness.

http://www.amazon.com/Dicta-18t-32-BMX- ... B001CJVFMU


You've lost me with the flip over assembly bit?
My lefthand freewheel screws on when the motor is in motion. No fear of it screwing off.

Iv'e been thinking this over for the past few hours and have come to the conclusion that my freewheel setup on the motor wont work, no matter whether I use a LH or a RH freewheel.

Image

As you look at the picture above - left side of bike. Everything is traveling in an ANTI-clockwise direction, ie motor with LH freewheel - chain and large sprocket on back wheel. So when the bike is in motion the wheel/sprocket will be turning the chain, the chain will keep the freewheel turning. For the freewheel to work it would have to freewheel in an anti-clockwise direction and that would never work as the motor has to drive in an anti-clockwise direction.

Regards
Tom
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby Thud » Tue May 03, 2011 11:42 am

I use standard free wheels all the time...left or right side. you Just need the ability to thread it onto your adapter from either side of the freewheel itself. (the Dictas will do that...but they are not LH threaded)

It may change the assembly sequence a little bit if you can grind the teeth where the removal tool bites your SP freewheel & thread your adapter on from the front, you have reversed the direction the Pawls engadge.

Just work it out with the parts in your hand.
I asume the rear sprocket is hard mounted to the hub.

If you use a standard freewheel & adapter it will "drive" fine on the port side with a standard thread.
get some......

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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby RallySTX » Tue May 03, 2011 4:32 pm

I'm lost, all I see is enough chain to make a lumberjack nervous! :lol: It's easy to get turned arround on a job like that one. What I would do, is get a clipboard, get down by the side of the bike you are working on, draw out the drivetrain, one side at a time, with arrows showing direction of rotation, and just keep the notes current. If you install a freewheel on that motor, you had better hope there isn't much inner resistance when it's off, or you'll never be able to back the bike up. If you turn the wheel forward now, with the wrong frwweheel, you are turning the motor too. :shock: All this does TC, is show your only feline, Don't let it wrinkle a whisker. I feel sorry for that back wheel. See Ya.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Wed May 04, 2011 3:23 pm

If its not broken dont fix it.
I should have heeded that old saying and left well alone.

Last night I sat thinking about this freewheel malarky until my head hurt. Today I thought bugger it it'll do, the motor will just have to continually turn as it did before I added the freewheel, So I spent the afternoon fixing my on my - Towbar/rack/battbox.
Image

Once I had everything wired up I turned the throttle and found that the freewheel was freewheeling not driving.
ooh, lightbulb moment.
After a few whacks with a hammer n' chisel I had the freewheel assembly off, flipped around and hammered back on.
I reconnected the batt wires and crossed my fingers as I turned the throttle. Whoooopeee the motor was driving and freewheeling as it should. Problem solved - or so I thought!

I took the bike for a spin around to my mates a few streets away. He wasn't in so I just kept going around the block a few times and back home. During the short trip I thought that the bike didn't accelerate as quickly as before, it also seemed to take longer to get up to speed?
When I parked up the bike I noticed smoke comming from the motor? I put my hand on it and nearly took the skin off my fingers. I put my hand on the battbox in the area where the controller sits and could feel that this was warm as well?

I never had any smoke/heat problems (motor or controller) when I had this setup with the 11 tooth motor cog and 54 tooth minimoto sprocket.
Image

Here's me thinking that I'd improve things by adding a freewheel (to create less motor drag) and moving the motor. NOT!!!

This heat/smoke problem is probably all to do with Cog/Sprocket ratio? but im no good with all these calculations?
I need to get naked to count to 21 :lol:

If it is a ratio problem, I have a few options to try...
1. The sprocket on the rear wheel is 49 tooth I think? I can swap this for a 45T. I got both these from SoSauty ... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22908
I'll need to file out the center of the sprocket so it slips over the hub.
2. Try the pedal crank of a kiddies bmx type bike. I'd have to file this out also but its roughly the same size as the minimoto sprocket.
Finally option 3. Do away with the freewheel and weld the 11t cog back onto the motor, put the minimoto 54t sprocket back on the wheel and get a longer 8mm pitch chain.

I cant remember walking under any ladders or smashing any mirrors but this project seems jinxed?

Regards
Tom
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby amberwolf » Wed May 04, 2011 9:49 pm

IIUC your no-problems original ratio was 11:54? Then that's the ratio you need to duplicate or come close to. If you now have 16:49, that's a LOT lower ratio. Dunno if that's what is causing the problem but if it is you need a much *larger* chainring on the back, to go with the larger freewheel tooth count.

54 / 11 = 4.909....
49 / 16 = 3.0625
so to get something equivalent to the 54, you'd multiply the original ratio times the FW tooth count (16): 4.909 x 16 = 78T

78T is pretty danged big for a bicycle-chain-type ring, but you can get them (or make one).

Alternately, if you don't mind a jackshaft, you could put a conveniently-sized sprocket on the bike-chain end of the jackshaft, connecting to the motor's FW, then use the original smaller chain and sprockets from the other end of the jackshaft to the wheel.

Just getting a larger rear sprocket will be simpler.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby RallySTX » Thu May 05, 2011 1:01 am

One thing I see is that the motor doesn't look like it is getting the same amount of airflow behind the seatpost like it did at the back. Check the rotation of both wheels for easy rotation. The controller might need more airflow too. That's a huge outdrive. I'm surprised the rear wheel can take the weight. Wish I had more experience here, but I know your frustration. My S10 project had me climbing the walls too. Just remember that any custom job has it's growing pains, and unforseen pitfalls. I just hope your fingers heal quickly, and your motor isn't knackered!
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Sat May 21, 2011 7:02 am

amberwolf wrote:IIUC your no-problems original ratio was 11:54? Then that's the ratio you need to duplicate or come close to. If you now have 16:49, that's a LOT lower ratio. Dunno if that's what is causing the problem but if it is you need a much *larger* chainring on the back, to go with the larger freewheel tooth count.

54 / 11 = 4.909....
49 / 16 = 3.0625
so to get something equivalent to the 54, you'd multiply the original ratio times the FW tooth count (16): 4.909 x 16 = 78T

78T is pretty danged big for a bicycle-chain-type ring, but you can get them (or make one).

Alternately, if you don't mind a jackshaft, you could put a conveniently-sized sprocket on the bike-chain end of the jackshaft, connecting to the motor's FW, then use the original smaller chain and sprockets from the other end of the jackshaft to the wheel.

Just getting a larger rear sprocket will be simpler.



So here's me thinking i'd need a smaller rear wheel sprocket but its a BIG one I need. I had a look around but couldn't find any? Anyone know where i'd get a 80T BMX type sprocket?

Thanks for any info.

Regards
Tom
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby gtadmin » Sat May 21, 2011 8:28 am

TopCat wrote:... I need to get naked to count to 21 :lol:
Ha ha! Pay that!
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:33 am

Hi guys,

I got another 4 lipos the other day (Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 25C) to go with the 2 I already have and I thought I best check that i'll be wiring them up right?

Step 1.
Take 2 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 25C batteries and wire the positive from one to the negitive of the other to give me a 36V battery.

Step 2.
Repeat step 1 for the other 4 batteries until I have 3 sets of 36v batteries.

Step 3.
Wire all three positve sets together and all three negitive sets together so I am left with 1 Positive lead & 1 negitive lead. Plug these leads into controller and off we go?

Im using the iCharger 1010B+ 300W 10s Balance/Charger to charge my batteries one at a time, so it'll take around 6 hours to charge them but this will give me more range on my Powabike Mark 1 Classic...

Image

Im using the Powabike Mark 1 Classic to get around at the moment as the chopper in on the back burner, I cant find a big sprocket for the rear wheel so I think Im going to have to make some kind of jackshaft system, though I have no idea of all the gearing ratios thats involved to achive this?

Regards
Tom
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby RallySTX » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:48 pm

Correct on the battery wires except one thing. All three sets should be joined at each connection point. In other words at the point where you put pos to neg to double the volts, all strings should join up there too. This is so that if you have a cell do bad you don't lose a string. Refer to the pic of the harness I recently bought from Farfle, oops I mean ZombieSS.

Image

Looks like I forgot to update my drawing on my thread. I wonder why nobody corrected me! If you are unsure, GET AHOLD OF ME! I read til my eyes were sore about this very subject.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Thu Jul 21, 2011 4:35 pm

No sign of the front tyre that I ordered? but I thought I'd treat myself and my spoiler to a nice set of saddlebages.

OSX ALL WEATHER Black Leather Motorcycle Saddlebags.
Image

Regards
Tom
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby RallySTX » Thu Jul 21, 2011 7:04 pm

Nice bags man! 8) That'll spruce up the looks and cargo cap on your ride, for sure. I'm leaning towards the same solution for mine, but I need other stuff first. Thinking about dropping the 9C rear wheel and going for an Escooter hub for the Spoiler but it's so close to finished I just can't stop now. Plus I don't think the aluminum frame can handle the power anyway. :shock: :shock: I'm gonna see if mabye I can get one for the Runt. That would make for a fun time, a wheelie capable 88KPH hardtail OCC chopper! :twisted: If I could govern the power I could let anyone ride it without worry. Ah well, glad you bagged your ride, and fixed those pesky lipo's. Later mate, happy trails!
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Sat Jul 23, 2011 6:15 am

RallySTX wrote: I'm leaning towards the same solution for mine, but I need other stuff first. Thinking about dropping the 9C rear wheel and going for an Escooter hub for the Spoiler but it's so close to finished I just can't stop now.

Ah well, glad you bagged your ride, and fixed those pesky lipo's. Later mate, happy trails!
Brian L.


I need other stuff too. My 500watt motor is getting very hot after a long run? I took a run over to Stirling this week and as I rode I could smell that burning plasticy smell! Prob wires getting hot! I had to pedal a good part of the way back and my butt was aching by the time I got home - mind you I had put the old spoiler seat back on till I get my other seat and backrest sorted out.
I had to abandon the jackshaft idea on thes spoiler as it wasn't working right, it took ages to get up to any kinda speed plus the bloody chain(s) kept slipping off, and that was after I made up a chain tenshioner. So I went back to the 11t mini moto sprocket on motor and the 54t sprocket on wheel.

I downloaded a new app for my Nokia N95 phone - Sports Tracker. I took a run over to a mates lastnight and gave it a go. My avrage speed was 22mph.

PLANS. & WISH LIST
Fit and wire up new indicator mirrors that arrived last weekend.
Fit Saddlebags once they arrive.
Make up a box for batts/controller and other gizmos. Something along the lines Aussiejester/Kim made up for his trike.... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4432&start=525
Sort out seatpost/seat and backrest.
Make up and rear rack for my bike box.
Fit bike box and wire up rear lights - Rear light/Indicators/Brake light.
Fit and wire up trailer lights connector.
Get a bar bent to hold trailer hitch.
Wire up - Horn - Front light.
Re-fix/fit front left brake caliper.
Re-fix/fix rear brake caliper. Fit new Tandam brake cable that arrived last week.
Paint rear wheel.
Re-paint front wheel.
Sand down and paint the front forks black. Rechroming would cost me a small fortune.
Make up a phone & camera holder for handlebars.

Once all of the above is done and working ok without any hiccups... Strip down the whole bike and repaint it black.

RallySTX wrote:Ah well, glad you bagged your ride, and fixed those pesky lipo's. Later mate, happy trails!
Brian L.


Im thinking of making a busbar to run my bike on, something like this...
Image
http://evmc2.wordpress.com/2011/07/10/copper-tube-bus-bar-idea/
for wiring up my lipos, rather than buggering about trying to solder a snakesnest of wires. I'll post up a photo when made and before I connect up any batts etc just to make sure with the boffins that all is well :shock:

I'd like to get a bigger motor, prob a 1000's watter. Possibly one like flyingmonkey has, thats if I can source one out? - ( he looks to get a fair turn of speed outta it ).
1000w 36v currie motor.
Image
FLYINMONKEYS THREAD.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/superkids_2165_6333668

On and on and on ... the list is endless

Win the lotto to pay for stuff and find time to do all of the above, without pulling the rest of my hair out :D

Regards
Tom

PS. Forgot to tell you thatwe have another Spoiler - Chopper guy/build in our midst....
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29206
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby RallySTX » Sun Jul 24, 2011 12:30 am

Hello TC, loose contacts on that busbar will cause open circuits and resistance. That new motor looks promising. I hope your back isn't sore after that ride, mine would be killing me! Damb it, you stole my idea about the indicator mirrors! :evil: Thanks for the heads up on Manitu's Spoiler build. I sent him a hello note, so if he suddenly vanishes, make sure I get the credit. :shock: I mean blame!! 8) See ya mate.
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2004 Schwinn Stingray OCC. The Stripper.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Sat Jul 30, 2011 5:51 am

GEARING - Cog/Sprocket/Chain help.

Can anyone help out with my gearing. Im running a 500w motor at 36V. At the moment im running an 11T mini moto cog on the motor and an 54T sprocket on the 20" wheel. I get around 22mph but my motor gets very very hot - so hot it'd take the skin of your hand. Iv'e tried varoius combinations of cogs/sprockets etc but just cant get it right. So before I go throwing good money after bad I'd like to know im buying the right combination of cogs/sprockets etc.

What I have in my bin of parts at the moment.

36V 500Watt motor 2500rpm. Rated Current 17.5A.
36v 800watt Controller.
11T minimoto cog, on motor.
8mm pitch minimoto chain.
45T mininmoto sprocket.
44T mininmoto sprocket.

16T LH Freewheel.
45T Sprocket.
49T Sprocket
BMX Chain

Can someone with gearing knowhow recommend the right cos/sprockets etc

Regards
Tom
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby jimw1960 » Sat Jul 30, 2011 11:57 am

TopCat wrote:
So here's me thinking i'd need a smaller rear wheel sprocket but its a BIG one I need. I had a look around but couldn't find any? Anyone know where i'd get a 80T BMX type sprocket?

Thanks for any info.

Regards
Tom



There is somebody on the For Sale thread selling 80-tooth sprockets. viewtopic.php?f=31&t=29515
Last edited by jimw1960 on Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby gtadmin » Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:44 am

TopCat wrote:GEARING - Cog/Sprocket/Chain help.

Can anyone help out with my gearing. Im running a 500w motor at 36V. At the moment im running an 11T mini moto cog on the motor and an 54T sprocket on the 20" wheel. I get around 22mph but my motor gets very very hot - so hot it'd take the skin of your hand. Iv'e tried varoius combinations of cogs/sprockets etc but just cant get it right. So before I go throwing good money after bad I'd like to know im buying the right combination of cogs/sprockets etc.

What I have in my bin of parts at the moment.

36V 500Watt motor 2500rpm. Rated Current 17.5A.
36v 800watt Controller.
11T minimoto cog, on motor.
8mm pitch minimoto chain.
45T mininmoto sprocket.
44T mininmoto sprocket.

16T LH Freewheel.
45T Sprocket.
49T Sprocket
BMX Chain

Can someone with gearing knowhow recommend the right cos/sprockets etc

Regards
Tom

Hi Tom, I hope the following helps: Assumption is that you want the top speed to be 22mph at 2500 motor rpm.

Convert to metric: 22mph x 1.609 = 35.4kph.
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter and travels PIx500 = 1.57m per rev, so at 35.4kph the wheel has to rotate
35,400/1.57 = 22,546revs / hour = 22,546 / 60 = 375.8 rpm. OK so far?

So 2500 motor rpm x 11t = 375.8 wheel rpm x #Wr teeth therefore
#Wr teeth = (2500 x 11) / 375.8 = 73.18 => use 73 teeth.

Will this reduce your very hot temperature? I don't know, but it should reduce it and your gearing will be about right.

Cheers,
GT
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby AussieJester » Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:55 am

gtadmin wrote:A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter


He runs a 4.25in tyre i think it might be bigger than 500mm Diameter ;-) ...

You can't get those motors that hot ToPcat, what your smelling is the coating
on the magnet wires burning, i would think you have all but killed it with
the gearing you have put on it, you should of left the front sprocket
alone bought a disk brake freehweel adapter and fitted that to the rear hub
you could then bolt your existing sprocket to it, retaining your original gear ratio..

You bought more LiPO :shock: duuude get some LifeP04 seriously... i forsee more bad things
in your future :lol:

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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby gtadmin » Mon Aug 01, 2011 3:16 am

AussieJester wrote:
gtadmin wrote:A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter


He runs a 4.25in tyre i think it might be bigger than 500mm Diameter ;-) ...

Yeah probably, but the only size given is 20" so that's what I went with. A bigger diameter will require more than 73 teeth on the back. Tom?

Edit: I should also mention that the 2500rpm is probably the no-load speed, and we should use something like 90-95% of that for calculations. Anyway, it's a start.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Mon Aug 01, 2011 4:42 am

jimw1960 wrote:
TopCat wrote:
So here's me thinking i'd need a smaller rear wheel sprocket but its a BIG one I need. I had a look around but couldn't find any? Anyone know where i'd get a 80T BMX type sprocket?

Thanks for any info.

Regards
Tom



There is somebody on the For Sale thread selling 80-too sprockets. viewtopic.php?f=31&t=29515


I contacted Bobc and he says that his sprockets fit an 8mm roller chain. Humm! I'd have to then also find a cog and chain for my motor.

gtadmin wrote:Hi Tom, I hope the following helps: Assumption is that you want the top speed to be 22mph at 2500 motor rpm.

Convert to metric: 22mph x 1.609 = 35.4kph.
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter and travels PIx500 = 1.57m per rev, so at 35.4kph the wheel has to rotate
35,400/1.57 = 22,546revs / hour = 22,546 / 60 = 375.8 rpm. OK so far?

So 2500 motor rpm x 11t = 375.8 wheel rpm x #Wr teeth therefore
#Wr teeth = (2500 x 11) / 375.8 = 73.18 => use 73 teeth.

Will this reduce your very hot temperature? I don't know, but it should reduce it and your gearing will be about right.

Cheers,
GT


Hi GT, Thanks for trying to help out but sadly my math skills are non exsistant - I need to get naked to count to 21 :D
22 mph is the fastest I have been on my bike - so im told, using gps sports tracker etc. I'd like to go faster but I think I'd need a bigger motor.

AussieJester wrote:
gtadmin wrote:A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter


He runs a 4.25in tyre i think it might be bigger than 500mm Diameter ;-) ...

You can't get those motors that hot ToPcat, what your smelling is the coating
on the magnet wires burning, i would think you have all but killed it with
the gearing you have put on it, you should of left the front sprocket
alone bought a disk brake freehweel adapter and fitted that to the rear hub
you could then bolt your existing sprocket to it, retaining your original gear ratio..

You bought more LiPO :shock: duuude get some LifeP04 seriously... i forsee more bad things
in your future :lol:

KiM


Hey Kim, Yes I can get my motor very hot indeed. When I first setup the bike with the 11T minimoto cog on the motor and the 54T minimoto sprocket on the wheel it liiked like this...
Image
I was running this on heavy SLA's that were past there best. I then got lipos (ooh dear :) ) and a LH freewheel/Tophat adaptor and sprockets from Sosauty...
Image
moved the motor and I tryed this setup...
Image
Image
16T freewheel on motor and one of Sosauty's sprockets on the wheel, 49T I think it was.
A run around the block on this setup had smoke coming from my motor.
I then tried my hand at a jackshaft setup but that failed as it took weeks to get up to any kind of speed and the chains kept slipping off. So it was back to the 11T minimoto cog on motor & 54T sprocket on wheel.
I'll need to see about getting one of those disk brake freehweel adapters you mentioned?

Little update.
I have made up a makeshift battbox from some scrap wood 'n and old plastic shop sign, made a vent at the front to cool the controller - (pictures later). I'll make a better one once I can source out better materials. Done away with the big box on the back. Put my new rear mudguard on.
oh and Kim, I wired up all my lipos. I set them up like neptronix did... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28427&start=0
Made 3 serial connectors like so.
Image
Then a parallel harness.
Image
Hooked everything up and waited for a BANG!! No bang so I took a spin around the block, all ok. I wont know if the motor will get stingy hand hot until I go for a long run, which I plan to do today, as I have to go over to Stirling, which is about 7 mile. Around round trip of 12 to 14 mile - depending which route I take.

Back later with an update on how the run went.

Regards
Tom
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http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=19663

I started off with nothing and I still have most of it left.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby gtadmin » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:54 am

TopCat wrote:... Hi GT, Thanks for trying to help out but sadly my math skills are non exsistant - I need to get naked to count to 21 :D

So I've read :lol:
22 mph is the fastest I have been on my bike - so im told, using gps sports tracker etc. I'd like to go faster but I think I'd need a bigger motor...

Just did a quick calc and I think you are consistently pulling up to about 37A through your motor (which is rated at 17.5A), so you have 2 options: be happy with 20 odd mph and re-gear, or get a bigger motor.

Hope there's good news after your ride :: GT crosses fingers ::
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby TopCat » Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:02 pm

Got to Stirling ok but the motor was still stingy - burn you hand - fry and egg on it HOT. The controller was cool - though it is now stuck behind a vent at the front of my batt box. I didn't make it all the way back (need a couple more lipos) and had to cycle a few miles. My legs n' arse are killing me, hence the chair and a cupp a when I got home. This bike was not designed in anyway shape or form for peddaling :roll:

Just back from Stirling, a sit down and a cuppa.
Image

Strip out the batts for recharging and take some watt meter readings.
The black plastic coated aluminium sheet over the back mudguard is for holding my new saddlebags. Still have a little work to do on it.
Image

Makeshift Batt Box with gold vent to cool controller.
I'll make a better one once I get some more materials.
Image

Image

Lipo setup.
Image
Image

Here are the readings from the Turnigy Watt Meter after my trip.

32.67V
15.027AH
41.72AP
565.6WH
1689.6WP
31.69VM

Whatever all that means? Maybe someone can enlighten me.

So it looks like im stuck with a hot motor until I get the gearing sussed out? but I eventually plan to get bigger motor.

Regards
Tom
TopCat's Spoiler
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=19663

I started off with nothing and I still have most of it left.
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Re: Schwinn Spoiler

Postby AussieJester » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:00 pm

TopCat wrote:Got to Stirling ok but the motor was still stingy - burn you hand - fry and egg on it HOT. The controller was cool - though it is now stuck behind a vent at the front of my batt box. I didn't make it all the way back (need a couple more lipos) and had to cycle a few miles. My legs n' arse are killing me, hence the chair and a cupp a when I got home. This bike was not designed in anyway shape or form for peddaling :roll:

Just back from Stirling, a sit down and a cuppa.
Image

Strip out the batts for recharging and take some watt meter readings.
The black plastic coated aluminium sheet over the back mudguard is for holding my new saddlebags. Still have a little work to do on it.
Image

Makeshift Batt Box with gold vent to cool controller.
I'll make a better one once I get some more materials.
Image

Image

Lipo setup.
Image
Image

Here are the readings from the Turnigy Watt Meter after my trip.

32.67V
15.027AH
41.72AP
565.6WH
1689.6WP
31.69VM

Whatever all that means? Maybe someone can enlighten me.

So it looks like im stuck with a hot motor until I get the gearing sussed out? but I eventually plan to get bigger motor.

Regards
Tom


Turnigy readings

Volts
Amp hours (used)
Amps Peak
watt hours (used)
Watts peak
Volts minimum

KiM
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