geared kona dirt jump frame FOR SALE

[flyinmonkie]

Pic time. Here is what is in those battery tubes. Er... part of what was in there, and now what will be going in there.

I'll start with the batteries. They were just connected will some stiff foam, but now I have used a piece of plastic cutting board.

PA210003.JPG (136.34 KiB) Viewed 525 times

PA210005.JPG (126.05 KiB) Viewed 525 times

PA210007.JPG (139.67 KiB) Viewed 525 times

Next we will look at my the LVC boards I got from Gary. I had one tapped to the out side of one of the tubes before. In looking for a way to make it look nicer, I stumbled on the idea of putting them in the end of the tube on top of the batteries. The boards will a little big, so I took the corners off and shortened them up a bit with a file.

notice the corners

PA210014.JPG (168.56 KiB) Viewed 525 times

PA220015.JPG (160.72 KiB) Viewed 525 times

in tube end cap

PA220016.JPG (146.93 KiB) Viewed 525 times

PA220017.JPG (154.42 KiB) Viewed 525 times

The batteries and LVC board tapped together ready to slide into the tube.

PA220018.JPG (102.88 KiB) Viewed 525 times

PA220020.JPG (96.08 KiB) Viewed 525 times

To get it all to fit, I had to make slightly longer tubes. They have one coat of paint on them as I type. I will do a second coat tomorrow. I also am changing how I connect the tubes. I will no longer be bolting them together. I am going to glue them together with a piece of shaped ultralon foam between them. I'll use F2 glue, it is really good stuff. Most of the time they will be strapped to the bottom of the bike so they won't go any were.

I have a busy weekend ahead, but tomorrow off. So I may have a rideable bike again before the weekend. I'll try. My wire and parallel balance leads are on their way for my second set of batteries, so it won't be long before I double the power. The last little thing is a derailleur to take up tension on the pedal chain. That one can wait a while though. I'll get there.

Clay

[AussieJester]

Very neat solution mate well done The Parallel boards make things
soooo much easier dont they! Lookin' forward to seeing this bike
running...

KiM

[GGoodrum]

Excellent work, Clay. I've "trimmed " some of my LVC boards in a similar fashion, but mine don't look quite as clean.

What size PVC tubes are these?

-- Gary

[flyinmonkie]

Kim, they sure do and take a lot of worry out of watching the watt meter all the time.

Gary, it was really easy with a file. I put the file on the bench and moved the boards across the file. Took about 20 minutes to do both. The PVC pipe is 80mm downtube for rain gutters here. It is about 75mm ID roughly. It fits a zippy 5800 with enough room for wires and something to hold the packs together. It also has these nice caps that fit inside the tube rather than over the end. The caps are really tight, but that is good. I have glued the lower ones in so there is no way my batteries will fall out the bottom.

Clay

[flyinmonkie]

I rushed my battery tubes as I wanted to ride so bad. So I will need to give them a sand and a paint again as the paint is really rough. I also need to work a little more on my foam blocks that I glued the tubes together with. They aren't quite right yet. I might try one other thing if I don't like how they turn out.

On the up side, I did get a ride in. I actually used the full the pack this time. I got 13.5ks out of the pack and right around 11ah or so. I started at ~25.2v and ended ~21.3ish (can't remember exactly). At the end of the ride, I went pretty hard on some dirt single track and gravel bike paths. I also hit some pretty steep long hills without pedaling. I pulled 90 amps again and hit 1887 watts. The motor was warm at the end, but not so warm I couldn't hold my hand on it continuously. Not too bad for a 24v 600w rated motor.

I did find a few little problems. My batteries bounce in the tubes a little with bumps and this knocks my top cap off the tube. I'm going to put some more foam around the lower battery to hold it in the tube tighter. That should stop the bounce. I also had to turn the LVC board 90 deg. to line up all the wires at the end of the tube better and make a bit more room for the connectors at the end of the tube. It will be very clean now with only a small plug for the LVC to throttle connection and the end of an Anderson sticking out of the tubes.

The pack is charging for my ride to work tomorrow. I'll take some picks of it all together soon.

Clay

[flyinmonkie]

Here they are!!! pics and a small video.

PA260003.JPG (143.35 KiB) Viewed 429 times

PA260006.JPG (149.17 KiB) Viewed 429 times

PA260005.JPG (179.3 KiB) Viewed 429 times

PA260007.JPG (181.11 KiB) Viewed 429 times

PA260004.JPG (158.03 KiB) Viewed 429 times

Second tube ready for the second battery pack.

PA260008.JPG (143.41 KiB) Viewed 429 times

LVC boards are now inside the tubes and it is very clean. I need to clean up my throttle wires where all the electrical tape is. My straps are doing a job of holding the tubes, but they slide a little sometimes. I might look at a stop or a better way of holding the tubes. There are a couple of other little things I'd like to clean up a little. I also would like to add a main switch, but I am not sure how yet. It is so clean as it is and I'm not sure where to put either a battery master switch or a relay to use a key switch. It is working well though and I have been commuting on it every day for the last week or so. It is lots of fun to ride and handles really well. I am looking forward to seeing what it will do at 50v hot off the charger.

Now for the video.



Clay

[AussieJester]

Excellent job Flymonkie she turned out a treat mate well done... cool video to
curious on what sort of weight she came in at have you got around to weighing it at all?

Have fun on it mate

KiM

[Bluefang]

looks awesome mate, after i have finished my friction drive setup i think my next one will be like yours using the bikes gears and those battery tubes look so simple and convenient

[flyinmonkie]

Kim, thanks again. I'm real happy with how it turned out. I should have the wires I need to go to 44.4v sometime next week at the latest. Should be real zippy then, if I don't melt my motor. I don't have a scale anywhere, but if I find one, I'll weigh it and post up the total. I didn't weigh anything to start with either. It is a lot lighter than my chopper was. I can pick it up and throw it in the back of my Landcruiser quite easy. The chopper almost took 2 people to pick up.

Bluefang, thanks. Yeah, the tubes are pretty good. I still need to clean up how they are glued together and you need to run some foam down where they hit the frame, otherwise they slide pretty bad. I may make a little bracket to keep them from sliding at all. Depending on your frame size and geometry, you could add tubes all over the place for more power or more range. They look nicer to me than square boxes on a bike frame.

Clay

[flyinmonkie]

My second battery pack is all made up and I got the wires I need to connect the packs. I still need to make one small wire harness to connect the 2 LVC boards together.

But, I've torn down the battery tubes and re glued them together. I am much happier with them now. I will also be sanding them down and repainting them, as the paint is pretty bad at the moment. While I am doing that, I will probably make a bracket to keep the tubes from sliding and tear down some of my brackets and paint them as well. I am also looking into replacing the motor mount with head stem. I am watching a couple on trademe (NZ ebay and much better) and may get one to try out. It will look a lot cleaner and like it is supposed to be there if it works.

So the bike will be apart for a while. When it is all back together and "purdied up", I'll get some more pics and video and data up with 50v hot off the charger.

Clay

[AussieJester]

So the bike will be apart for a while. When it is all back together and "purdied up", I'll get some more pics and video and data up with 50v hot off the charger.

Clay

Best of luck with all the pruuuurting up mate, I know how booooring and pointless it seems at times doing the prep before paint, stick too it as it IS
all worth it when its all done and your taking those final pics

Look forward to next update

KiM

[flyinmonkie]

Cheers Kim,

Yeah, I am pretty impatient when it comes to prep and paint. But, I am a bit off a perfectionist as well. That combo doesn't always work. lol

Now that I know the bike works well I'll take my time to get the finish real nice so I have a professional looking end result that will last a long time.

Clay

[bzhwindtalker]

looking good! let's zip it on the trails!

[flyinmonkie]

Thanks bz,

If you take another look at the tires, you'll see it is for the road. Though, I do some gravel on the way to work as well. It will be a few weeks before there is any more video while the bike is apart and being shined up and all the little things sorted. I'll be putting up pics of the progress though. Mostly working at the moment.

Clay

[LCNMRider]

What is your total gear reduction with each of the three sprockets you have connected to that currie motor?

Rick

[bzhwindtalker]

ah this kind of bike should be fun in the woods as well!

[flyinmonkie]

What is your total gear reduction with each of the three sprockets you have connected to that currie motor?

Rick

Rick, not sure off the top of my head. My first stage is a 15 tooth (motor) to a 95 tooth (first reduction). Then it goes from a 16 tooth (output of first reduction) to the 3 sprockets on the rear cluster. They are 34, 28, and 24 tooth. I'm not good at figuring the reduction numbers, but there it is for those that can.

ah this kind of bike should be fun in the woods as well!

bz, it sure would be. I may have to invest in some knobby tires eventually.

Clay

[LCNMRider]

With those numbers you have a primary reduction of 6.333 and a secondary reduction of 2.125 for a total reduction of 13.458.

I believe you said you were using the 24v motor. If so, that motor spins at 108 rpm per volt and at 44 volts would turn 4752rpm (no load). With your reduction 13.458 you will have a max wheel speed of 353rpm @ a 24inch wheel should give you a theoretical top speed of 25.19mph (using your largest rear sprocket).

Based on what I have measured from my son's OSET trials bike I think that motor will handle that speed for short time periods but I would watch the motor temps closely. His bike uses 20" tires, has a 8.18 to 1 gear ratio and a measured top speed of 27mph on 36volts with me on it (180lbs). It will climb near vertical hills with him on it (he weighs 56 lbs and the bike is 51lbs) and pulls 80 amps doing so. I have measured temps as high as 125 degrees F at the outside of the back of the case (where the brushes are) with this setup.

If you want more offroad performance lower your primary sprocket to a 11 tooth which will give you a 18:1 ratio and a top speed around 20mph and better hill climbing. At around 20:1 you should have enough torque to climb very steep hills.

I have been giving some thought to building a heat sink for the end of the motor or water cooling the motor the way that some are water cooling computer chips. You may find that you need some form of cooling to keep that motor from cooking the brushes during sustained rides. I am very interested in your results.

Rick

[flyinmonkie]

Rick,

Cheers for doing those numbers. I have put up some real world numbers but here is a quick recap.

Currently running 22.2v, 25v hot off the charger.
I have seen peaks of over 100amps so far, but cruising on the flat I see between 30amps and 40amps.
I have seen peek watts of about 2600 or so. Again cruising I see between 500w and 700w.
In tops gear, the smallest sprocket I can hit 33.5 K/hr on the flat and hold that fine.

The controller has stayed cool as always.
Even after climbing a long hill I can still hold my hand against the motor indefinitely. It is warm, but not excessive.

We will see what happens at 50v hot off the charger in a couple of weeks or so. I'm hoping to not melt the motor.

Clay

[flyinmonkie]

Not much has happened, other than the bike being taken slightly apart for final paint and tidying. I also got a DJ stem to try as a motor mount and replace my custom bracket from the reduction to the seat tube. I think I have to enlarge the holes a little and it may interfere with my front derailleur cable. We will see.

The big news is it may be more than a few weeks before I have it back together and am able to ride. I had a non-ebike related accident the other day and have damaged my knee and my ankle a little. I'm not sure how bad yet, but find out on Monday. In the mean time it is a set of crutches a leg brace and a sore knee and ankle.

I think I am going to stick to rock climbing, mt biking is dangerous. It is far safer to fight gravity than let it run you into stuff. lol

Clay

[flyinmonkie]

Well, I hobbled down to the workshop today and did a little work on the bike. I sanded the battery tubes nice and smooth again. They are ready to be repainted. I checked to see if the stem I ordered would work. It won't. It is to small to fit around my seat tube and there is no more room to make it bigger. No worries, I will just leave the bracket as it is. I have also started my final wire harnesses. One to connect my 2 lvc boards and one to series the 2 battery packs. A little solder and some crimping and It will be all good. I just need to balance charge my 2 packs and when my leg works again, I'll be away at 50v.

I'll put up some pics after paint.

Clay

[flyinmonkie]

I am able to get around pretty good now. I'm still fairly slow and can't run, but my knee bends more each day. That means I can actually spend some time working on the bike.

I have started to paint the tubes again today. They should be finished tonight. I'll let them dry over night though. I am balance charging my batteries while I finish the little bits I am cleaning up. I also have made up the wire to connect the LVC boards in series. Once the tubes are dry, I can put those in and shorten my throttle wires. I left them long as I wasn't sure how I was going to route them. Now that I have it sussed, I can shorten them up and make them look a lot nicer. That will just about do it. I was going to paint the motor and controller bracket, but the stem I got is too small to swap out as the reduction mount. So, it is easier to leave it all mounted as it runs so well.

I should be up and running again in a couple of weeks tops. Of course, I'll be the States for about a month over xmas, but I should have a 50v test ride before I leave. I'm going to try to meet up with Matt S. while I am over there, as he is very close to my parents place.

Keep posted for a 50v test ride summary and video.

Clay

[recumpence]

Hey Clay,

I gave my wife a heads up on this and I am looking forward to getting together. If we have dry roads, maybe we can take the two trikes out for a quick ride while you are in town. Trikes are perfect for injured legs (ask me how I know).

Matt

[flyinmonkie]

Excellent Matt, I look forward to it. I can do stairs up and down now almost like a normal person, so a trike should be fine by the time I get there. My physio (physical therapist) said if I can get my knee to bend enough a normal bike will be fine next week. I am doing all I can, as I am hooked on commuting with my bike and this driving during the summer sucks when it is so nice out.

I'll hope for dry roads, but that conflicts with my hope for snow on xmas. It will be my wife's ever first winter xams so it would be cool to have a white one.

Clay

[recumpence]

It can be white, but still have dry roads.

Anyway, I look forward to a visit.

Matt