Sorry for the Delay hillhater, I have been hoping that the servo tester was the source of the sync problems, so I have been waiting for a throttleizer before street testing. I paid $95 for it on the 12th with a promise of a 3 day turnaround. It shipped on Wed the 16th but then it wasn't, then it shipped again on Saturday the 18th, and got here on Monday the 20th, so count on 8 days or more for delivery, longer if you are not as close as I am. I felt slightly raped
by paying $25 for a proprietary build of $5 USB programming interface, but oh well.
These days Sunday is my only shot at free time, so I was all excited to wrap this project up, and get it on the road and off my mind.
That excitement quickly faded. I am really, really, really disappointed in the throttleizer's build quality. The power leads were different lengths, and there is no indication of which side is batt and which side is ESC. The temp sensor leads are short enough to be useless, so I have to clip them and extend them. The cable for the rarely-used usb interface is long enough to lasso cattle; after tuning that will haunt me endlessly unless I make this a rodeo bike.
The shrinkwrap covering was way too big to fit in the space, so it had to come off, and that is when the bad stuff really became apparent. I cut the pins for the LED, since one leg was poking into the casing of a white wire. The metal backs of the two fets had been pushed into contact, and the legs were not well completely seated before soldering, so a lot of current will go through the thin part of the leg. One of the black power leads had a split casing, like it was cut with wire strippers, then cut again longer. That power lead also had lots of stray strands floating about. While looking at the loose strands, I realized that it also had a cold solder joint that had cracked - if I put 100a through that lead I'd get a nice flash and wonder if it was something I had done.
I soldered on a standard throttle connector (I'd have like to see it come with one installed since 99% of us use the 4-pin xlyte style), but now I am frustrated by needing to do a lot of repair work to get this up to snuff (or at least what I have detected so far), so I am bagging on it for today.
I probably won't get a response on which set of power leads to solder to the ESC today, so that means I'd have to wait until NEXT Sunday to have the time to attempt an install it again. Maybe I should just wait for the Kepler interface, as I was really pleased with the build quality on the Kepler Drive.
Hey Kepler have you considered building the swingarm with mounting points for hall sensors? A simple bolt-on with screw holes for the big and little motors, and voila. I think eliminating the sync issue with hall sensors would eliminate the slow-start issue (might even be able to start from stopped), and if I could pump watts in as volts instead of amps with a nice reliable sensored ebike controller, I could eliminate a lot of resistance heat. I might whip up a bolt-on on the veritical mill in my Saturday machining class if I can get time and material.