StudEbiker wrote: Is it just me, or is there always a little thing like this that happens just as you think you've crossed the hump on a project?
Thud wrote:There are days when you will be further ahead & accept a loss.
Ornery wrote:Man, a shop is going to have to charge $50.00 per hour to mess with that. Sounds to me like a good excuse to buy more tools! Sears should have some hex drive drills in stock, that could easily be extended with an adapter. Drill those things out with a 3/16" or 1/4" bit, and re-drill and tap them larger with a 1/4-28 or 5/16-32 set screws or socket head cap screws. Once you've done a couple, it will go easier and you won't hesitate to do it in the future. Turn a small setback into a 10 minute repair, with an upgrade to boot. Oh, and new tools, too! Save your receipts for the drills in case they don't perform to your expectations.
A hammer with block of wood or urethane faced hammer ought to take care of that stuck gear cog adapter. Probably have to clean up the shaft with a file after it's forced out. Yet another tool or two to add to your ever growing collection!
StudEbiker wrote:So I drilled and tapped the #25 sprocket and am planning on replacing all the set screws that I can with allen head bolts and I had an idea. Could I drill and tap the shaft as well so the bolts are actually threaded into the shaft instead of just tensioned onto the shaft? It seems like it would be much more secure and solid. Of course it might be tough to only thread through part of the shaft. I don't think I would want to go all the way through because of how much strength in the shaft I would lose. Is there any reason why I can't just put a hole (not threaded) deep into the shaft so there is a good part of the bolt imbedded in the shaft? Here is a picture illustrating what I mean. It seems like this would be better than just having a divot in the shaft.
Gordo wrote:What you are proposing is a very bad idea. The shaft will probably break. That is why a flat on the shaft is used to secure a sprocket. It is the best of bad choices. A proper set screw has a serrated end on it, which acts like a lock-washer, securing it to the shaft. If I was doing this, I would use Loctite bearing seating compound on the entire shaft, sprocket interface, and set screw. To get it to release, you just need to warm it to @ 450*F.
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