Help with making a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 work with halls

Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
This includes R/C motors, botttom bracket, roller and geared drives.

Re: Help with making a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 work with halls

Postby kfong » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:14 am

A pre-existing hole will self center on a drill press. You just need to keep the part flat to the table and allow the drill to move the part to center without the part rotating. Vice grips will help, vblocks and a vice is better. Set rotation to slow and don't rush the process.
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Re: Help with making a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 work with halls

Postby irv » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:14 am

Thanks for the tips about buying the sprockets with the smaller bores and about using the drill press! I'm new to this so this is really helpful.
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Re: Help with making a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 work with halls

Postby irv » Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:38 am

I just wanted to share a quick update just in case anyone else stumbles into this thread.

I now have an 11T and a 13T sprocket with an 8mm bore. I plan to try them out this weekend and see if they'll work with the 20A controller.
I was also able to get an 80A brushless controller but I still need to customize the connections and figure out what each is for. I'm excited to try it out... I hope I don't burn my motor in the process.
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Re: Help with making a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 work with halls

Postby irv » Fri Feb 17, 2012 7:01 pm

I finally tried the 80A controller but, disappointingly, it didn't work.

I tested each hall sensor using a voltmeter and all three are good. The voltage reading changed from 0-5V when I turned the motor by hand.

I tried all 36 phase and hall wire combinations but none of the combinations turned the motor. The amp meter shows current kicking in, with the needle going past 50A max reading if I opened the throttle wide. But the motor just jolts and locks and doesn't really spin. Any ideas on what else I should try?

Here's a bit more info on the controller:
Image

Image

Image
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