Yeah I know... but i only have a stick welder :/ okay for simple or thick stuff , but tricky welds are almost impossible. And I can only work ouside too, wich sucks with the weather we usualy have here!! I wish I had a real workshop and a good quality tig or a brasing rig, I could do so much better work!
Just an update to say that the bike has been running strong for the past 2 hours of riding, I think I bottomed it out once, but no damage. It gets beaten hard every single time I take it for a spin, and takes the abuse like a champ. The range is quite good, I can now reach new playgrounds from home! Expect new vids with interesting technical sections and fast trails blasting if weather stays good
This was still looking better in my opinion, but it broke so...
At this point, I consider the drive system fully reliable
I found a source for quality steel tubes at a decent price, time to get the custom frame project firing again, and make it mid drive compatible
Weather was horrible this weekend, nothing to show...
I modded the shunt for 2500w continuous, 3700w peak! I don't know how the 100% stock 12 fet will handle that... but I managed to test it on 5 rain-free minutes, and it feels good! I wheelies way better, I should be able to pull some good ones with some more training!
One other thing I would like to to is have the rear and front brake levers inverted, I really struggle to control wheelies with rear brake and throttle on the same hand ! how do you guys do it??
The next step will probably be to fit the Hua tong 72v and bump the voltage to 24s...
Last edited by bzhwindtalker on Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
I went for a ride out, crashed twice (about my normal rate of crash) few more bruises I damaged the dérailleur again, and the chain broke when the dérailleur got stuck in the spokes of the rear wheel. I removed the broken link and kept riding. Max speed of 65kph on a slight uphill with tailwind, I still managed to slow the bike to 35kph on a big hill with headwind. 35wh/km, motor was not warm at the end of the ride
I use a thumb throttle, reversed and placed on the left side of the bar. If you don't run a front derailleur, you.have the added advantage of more room on the left side. I prefer thumb throttles on electric bikes for some reason, but with a higher torque setup like yours, a thumb throttle may be too difficult to control.
I had a good ride this morning, I did 14km, mostly offroad, but I noticed i bent the rear freewheel The largest cog is completly out of true, and un-usable. I changed the chain, but then the chain was jumping a lot on the fastest gear and the brand new chain was being stuck betwen the crank arm and the freewheel, damaging the links each time...
So I built a bash plate to keep the chain from jumping again :
From the limited testing I did, it seems to work very well! The chain failures I had where all related to the chain getting stuck, and none involved the chain's tensile strength so this should solve many driveline issues
Rode 18km, 10 of that bashing offroad, with not a single chain issue! The chain guard is really doing his job well, it will certainly help the chain life
With this bike I am able to investigate new playgrounds, I found two BIG jumps, but I was alone and with no camera, no point taking risks I hope to shoot a nice video this weekend, I have 4 days free to do so!
I ordered quality steel (ST37) tubing to make my custom frame. Design is in final stage but I don't have much to show, downloading solid edge at the moment... I should really decide myself on ONE CAD package and not keep using them all like I do right now, I like solidworks the best, I use catia at school, I use DraftSigth for 2D and I'm trying Solid edge next
The new frame will have a double down tube, single top tube, single pivot, and will be compatible with all mid drives configurations I would want to try, including one where you would not need a FW crankset and I would use the hub as a Jackshaft
I don't think the motor will need much protection with this design, as I had zero issues with the current one, and this will gain a lot of clearance. The motor is still the first thing to hit so you may be right about it needing some protection.
I updated my draft with accurate measurements and made sure I had ordered enough material, all seems good. About suspension designs, I think I will stick with single pivot, because finding a design where motor power does not interfere with suspension is already quite complicated on a single pivot
I like the split downtube that allows the motor to go in between the two, I think this will help a lot with looking more like a normalish bike. Also what is the wheelbase currently? Finally, will you have problems with your seat tube at such a steep angle?