Turnigy 80-100-B up for the challenge?

[coldfusion594]

I would definitely go for the 130KV motor! Most people want even less. The motor should not be used above 48V (130KV Version), or 36Volt for the 180KV Version. The bearings will wear out quickly if you go above. 72V is possible, the question is how long.

So I should use the 130kv motor if I want to use 48 volts?
Im looking at around 10 miles, but lets make it 15 (just to be safe) I do not want to wear down the batteries too much

[Thud]

Now we are back on topic!
sorry for the tangent Coldfusion.

The only advantage of the lower Kv motor is the smaller step the gearing reduction needs to make. I am the worst guy to ask about range & how many Watt's of battery you need. Nearly all my experiance is focused on speed trails & track performance.

But I would want the biggest battery i could carry for a couple reasons:
1) battery life.....keeping the depth of discharge reasonable will give your batteries their longest life expectancy.
2) there is allways something coming up & you may need the extra range (if available)

[E-racer]

I agree with thud. Nothing is better than just piling on as much lipo as you can. I am at the point that I think 1kW/hr is a minimum on 100 amp 80-100's

[coldfusion594]

I agree with thud. Nothing is better than just piling on as much lipo as you can. I am at the point that I think 1kW/hr is a minimum on 100 amp 80-100's

haha what does that mean? I have very little battery knowledge so please... baby steps

Can you post a link to the battery I should get and how many batteries I would need so I have can get an idea?
Sorry!

Don't worry about the whole getting off topic thing, haha it seemed pretty on topic to me

[sn0wchyld]

I agree with thud. Nothing is better than just piling on as much lipo as you can. I am at the point that I think 1kW/hr is a minimum on 100 amp 80-100's

haha what does that mean? I have very little battery knowledge so please... baby steps

Can you post a link to the battery I should get and how many batteries I would need so I have can get an idea?
Sorry!

Don't worry about the whole getting off topic thing, haha it seemed pretty on topic to me

1kwh is a measure of capacity... ie you have the capacity to draw 1kw for an hour. the other part of that is if you're running a 80100 at 5kw, you'll want batteries that are capable of atleast a 5c discharge, ie 5kw motor / 1kwh of battery = 5C draw. Most lipo wont even break a sweat doing that though.

[Thud]

Alright cold fusion, lets get serious.

what is your previous RC experiance with regard to batteries?
I will link you to lipo threads if you have not looked at them already.....if no previous Lipo experiance I recomend you read Dogmans excellent advice in several of his posts. search,read & understand. A ping will definatly be safer...but thats not where the devil lives

using a single reduction, forget 50mph....you'll destroy everything way sooner than reasonable.....the only bike i've set up that ran 50+ comfortably had 2 80-100's at 180kv & I still had a custom 2-speed transmision.

with a simple reduction to drive the rear wheel I will recomend a 30 mph max speed. This motor will deliver spirited performance & not be teribly overlaoded at lower speeds.

if your going to use an rc controller, the only reasonable option is an castle ICEHV160. ($$$$) You need to add additional caps to keep it protected. Again, lots of talk about that on the forum.
whatever advice you follow for battery chemistry....you'll want at least 20amp hours (assuming your running a castle controller & 12 cells)

now...Your bike selections looks sturdy & a fair step up from the bike shaped object's at the local wallmart. I think it will do fine.
reality check complete.

[Idontwanttopedal]

The esc I got can run up to 17s do you think a 80100 will run on 16s ok or go up in smoke real quick
My 80100 is a 130kv so top rpm on 16s is around same as 180kv on 48v

[Thud]

sounds like the fightercat 200 IDWP.
yes the motor will handle the voltage without any problems....you just need to gear it properly & i would recomend grabbing an -add on cycle anilyst with the big shunt to measure the amps your feeding the motor. I know that controller is programable also...so maybe setting the saftey leves for cut-out in the parameters would be a benifit also.

I have one but have yet to do any testing with it.

[coldfusion594]

Baha

what is your previous RC experiance with regard to batteries?

I read almost all the posts on pretty much all the battery stuff but never got too technical with it because I am still in College and I want to save some brain power for finals that are coming up

using a single reduction, forget 50mph....you'll destroy everything way sooner than reasonable.....the only bike i've set up that ran 50+ comfortably had 2 80-100's at 180kv & I still had a custom 2-speed transmision.

One problem... Although that would be great for other people, I want to be able to keep up with traffic going down a main road that I use to go to work... Although the speed limit is 35mph because this is Jersey most people do 50mph
Any hub motor that can do that speed without killing itself or a controller? I have seen Greyborg's motor but seem a little pricey

I was thinking about using Zippy Lipo's for the batteries
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... se%5F.html
^== these any good? or what would you recommend?

[Bluefang]

Can you add to your user info where your from, cause those batteries are from the Australian website.
Your better off using the Zippy 20C 6s5000mah batteries as they seem be better value, cost vrs capacity

50mph....might be abit difficult if your using a single speed system, you will most likely kill the controller in low speed starts. Greyborgs motor wont seem that pricy once you factor in all the machining you have to do to get a RC motor to work etc.

[Thud]

Those batteries are fine. I personaly use the cheaper turnigy 20c rated batteries in 5000mah. & chain them together to build voltage & capacity for the set up.

If making 50mph is absolutly required. The smallest motor you should be looking at is a perm132. I won't rave about legalities...but i know how stressed bicycle stuff is at 50mph. Fine for the track where all the traffic is going one way & you don't care if the motor fails. But on the streets its a different set of circumstances.

[Idontwanttopedal]

Thud
Yeah that the esc I got of zombie I'm wait for the v3 ca set up for rc use then going to run your two speed reduction I hope

[coldfusion594]

If making 50mph is absolutly required. The smallest motor you should be looking at is a perm132.

At the cost of that motor, I might as well get two Greyborg motors lol

Your better off using the Zippy 20C 6s5000mah batteries as they seem be better value, cost vrs capacity

Those batteries are fine. I personaly use the cheaper turnigy 20c rated batteries in 5000mah. & chain them together to build voltage & capacity for the set up.

Which way should I chain them? I am looking to get 4 batteries so should I go for voltage or AH?
I absolutely need the 50mph speed on the road, so maybe I should stick to a hub motor? any hub that you can think of that can get me to that speed? with power to spare other than a greyborg?
How about BMC? or the Crystalyte HS3545?

[E-racer]

I am looking to get 4 batteries so should I go for voltage or AH?

You have got some serious learning to do. You have to understand what all the variables mean. 50mph is not an easy throw together setup.

[coldfusion594]

You have got some serious learning to do. You have to understand what all the variables mean. 50mph is not an easy throw together setup.

Yea I know the basic stuff. Just do not have the experience to know what I need to make the motor last as long as I need it to... Experience will tell me whether or not 4 batteries will be enough, and the chart on the Greyborg motor page makes it simple but it does not give me the information on how long the motor will last at that power... However I am weighing all my options and looking at not just at Greyborg's motor...

But yes you are right I do need to learn a LOT more before I can make a bike that I want to build but that is why I joined this forum, to learn from people such as yourself

[E-racer]

You must define what 4 batteries means. You need at least 1 kW/hr to go 50 mph for maybe 2-3 miles... this means you need minimum 8 6s 5,000 mah packs. 8 packs gives you 12s (50 volt) 20,000 mah or 20 ah. 50volts * 20 ah = 1000 w/h or 1 kW/hr

[Dauntless]

The motor behind it all is what I mainly have questions about:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... (eq:_70-55

Karl

Will you be able to get this motor in your lifetime? I've been waiting months for several of the kv130 and kv180: No relief is in sight. I'm anticipating finding a source other than HobbyKing, but so far anyone who markets that motor seems similarly out of stock.

I found one that's suggesting I'll get a real good price if I buy 100, but after I go through several and a relative takes a couple, what do I do with the rest? I mean it sounds fun to have that many, but. . . .

http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224162

[E-racer]

I posted where to get motors at anytime earlier in this thread. http://skyhobby.en.alibaba.com/product/476092519-212631801/ATN_series_C80100_08_Outrunner_Brushless_electric_motors_for_RC_toys.html

I recently recieved an 80-100 from this link.

[coldfusion594]

You must define what 4 batteries means. You need at least 1 kW/hr to go 50 mph for maybe 2-3 miles... this means you need minimum 8 6s 5,000 mah packs. 8 packs gives you 12s (50 volt) 20,000 mah or 20 ah. 50volts * 20 ah = 1000 w/h or 1 kW/hr

Thats a lot... Thanks for the info E-Racer!