whereswally606 wrote:what about welding a flange to a old steel bottom bracket cup drill six holes in the flange to mount to the disc holes on the motor and use a 16tooth bmx ACS freewheel to fit onto the thread of the bottom bracket cup.
Even simpler, is to use the righthand side of a rear threaded wheel hub, like I did here:viewtopic.php?p=551146#p551146
Except you would drill it out to the six-hole disc mount pattern instead (whcih I didn't have on my hub).
FWIW, I suspect that a tiny motor like the Cute may not take well to overvolting unless you severely limit the current. If you're using it as a middrive, you don't generally need it to spin really fast anyway, as you want likely 80-100RPM max into the bike's drivetrain. (assuming you're not running a separate chain to the wheel instead). My little 36V Fusin geared hub gets pretty hot at 48V even with only 20A or less max currrent, and not even drawing that much, if I run it at a lower speed (partial throttle). Might be mitigated if I ran it thru the gears, but haven't got around to the testbed for that yet.
To help with the heating problem, oil-cooling for keeping it sealed up should work, or at least help. Alternately, if you don't need it sealed, there's a lot of ventilation you can do on a geared hub that cant' be done on a DD: Slot the area between the spoke flanges, and add centrifugal fan vanes there, then add holes for air entry near the axle on both sides. I think John in CR first suggested this; at the least there is a discussion about it in a thread of his about Fusins and other geared hubs as middrives.
What I plan to try with a similar-to-the-Cute-sized TongXin "geared" hub is to leave the entire outer shell off, as it's design doesn't require that part for operation or to run the "gear" reduction. This should help immensely with cooling issues, since I will likely run it a lot harder than it was meant to be. viewtopic.php?p=511519#p511519